nismo_au

Here's mine. Not a AVC-R but you get the idea.

Yeah saw the ad at the cinemas before the movie started. Thought to myself was that an R34 or are my eyes playing tricks on me? At the end of the ad my girlfriend pointed it out too, so it wasn’t my eyes playing up. Ah, ive got her trained well, she’s become an excellent skyline spotter!

Gloof, I had a similar question to what you were asking before I decided on what sized intercooler I was going to buy. Here is the link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=36533 The link Meshmesh pointed me to and SydneyKids response were both very helpful. Hope they help you too.

Hmmm, im not sure if that is why he kept the stock cooler for so long. I was under the impression that the stock intercooler would actually have a greater drop in pressure than a well designed larger item (but I guess the extent of this would differ at different boost levels). From memory he was boosting somewhere around 10-12psi, a sensible level for the stock intercooler. I thought it was Rev210’s intention to keep the stock intercooler to retain the greater engine response from a smaller cooler (shorter length of intercooler piping and smaller volume of core). Could be wrong though…

What kind of power are you looking at achieving would be nice to know. If your just going to be dealing with the stock turbo im guessing close to 200rwkw? If this is the case then I would suggest IMHO going for something a little smaller (600 x 300 x 65 to 600 x 300 x 75 in size) as the larger core in question won’t really provide any extra benefits when dealing with the stock turbo, in fact it will have a greater adverse affect on overall engine response. The diameter and length of the intercooler piping will also play a major role in determining how much it will affect engine response. If you only plan on keeping the stock turbo for a little while and will be looking to upgrade to a bigger item in the future then it may be worthwhile going for a 600 x 300 x 90 sized unit (depends in the end what power goal you are looking to achieve and any future upgrade you have in mind). Otherwise, if the stock turbo is all your going to have then I would go for something a bit smaller, as i have suggested above. Just my 2 cents, hope it helps…

Sorry, a bit off the topic, what is the type/name of the front bar on the 33 GTSt (silver with the grey stripes) RRAGE posted? Damn that front bar is sexy!

Im interested, meeting place and time?

This is pretty much how it goes, if Redline Shockproof can’t fix your synchro problems then you will have trouble finding something that will IMHO… apart from getting the synchros replaced / gearbox re-built. Its your best (relatively cheap) bet to fix this problem.

I thought the same thing after putting one on mine.

Thanks guys very helpful, will be getting the Type S kit now.

Thanks Frank’s very helpful response and nice pictures! I am pretty sure I have seen the Type S kit for the R33 and from what I can remember the return goes through the bay not next to the cooler. I guess the R34 design is different, I could be wrong though. I guess I was worried about the larger volume of the core rather than a difference in pressure drop that may cause an issue with response. As I would assume the difference in any pressure drop between the two cores would be minimal (could be wrong here as well). Thanks Meshmesh I will have a look at those. I couldn’t really find was I was looking for with some searches I tried before, maybe these will give me a clearer idea. Ah yeah, not mild steel, just steel piping… oops…

Over the last few months while saving I have narrowed my choice of an intercooler down to the HKS Type S kit or the HKS Type R kit for my R33 GTSt. My current power target is to get around 200 rwkw but could possibly be aiming at achieving 230-240 rwkw in the future with the help of a HKS 2540 or more than likely a similarly sized Garret turbo, Power FC, Injectors, fuel pump etc, etc, but these upgrades are just a possibility. Anyway here are my questions. If I purchased the Type R kit and never went ahead with upgrading to a larger turbo etc, would the thicker core of the Type R have an adverse affect on engine response over the Type S core at this power level (around 200 rwkw’s)? What are any other advantages with the Type R core over the Type S apart from the thicker core size (greater ability to cool air)? Lower pressure drop over the core? I am a big believer in matching the right size intercooler for the right power level and that bigger is not always better, in my case would the Type R be overkill for my needs, remembering that I may at some stage be aiming to get 230-240 rwkw’s? Not having seen both kits before, are the intercooler piping designs identical (air exists out of core at passenger side, enters engine bay, goes over radiator and then in throttle body)? Are the pipes of the same diameter (another question related to engine response)? Finally, aluminium or mild steel piping in regards to rust. Im not particularly worried about the difference of the two piping materials on absorbing heat from the engine bay, I think the difference between the two would be minimal. But am concerned if there are any problems with the mild steel rusting etc, probably not too much of an issue but I though id ask anyway. Hmmm, that’s about it! Any help or input on the topic would be much appreciated.

Turned out to be a great day, and what an awesome drive back! Looking forward to the next one.

Yeah got the same problem in my 33. The drivers door has one line scratched into the tint pretty bad and possibly into the window as well. Considered getting that window retinted and fixing the rollers but I guess there’s not too much point if the window is scratched too?

I agree with you rob77 when you say an intercooler allows you to run more boost safely in hotter temperatures (cooler air therefore less chance of detonation at the same boost levels). However I also thought that if you installed a decent aftermarket intercooler over the stock item and didn’t change anything else (boost levels etc) you would still get a performance increase due to the cooler and slightly denser air being inducted. Someone correct me if im wrong, only way to learn.

I have heard from some people that having a separate wastegate pipe doesn't really have much of an advantage over a complete dump pipe (dump pipe without any separation of exhaust gasses) when dealing with the stock turbo. On the other hand I have had others tell me there would be a few kw in difference between the two pipe designs. I personally believe that with a stock turbo the separate wastegate pipe would give slightly better performance over the single pipe, with the real advantages been unlocked with a larger aftermarket turbo application. The advantage of the separate wastgate pipe is to avoid/reduce any interference to the flow of exhaust gasses from the turbine when the wastegate is open, which in theory the single pipe will not do as well. Also the separate wastegate pipe should have a venturi effect on the wastegate gasses from the flow of the other exhaust flow, so the flow of the other exhaust gasses should "pull" the wastegate gasses out quickly due to the pressure difference out and keep the exit of both exhaust gasses fast. Please correct me if I am wrong though. The advantage of the single 3" dump/front pipe would be the price, which would probably be cheaper than the separate wastegate dump alone, but of course choice of brand will influence this. In the end I guess you have to work out if the slight increase from the separate wastegate pipe is worth the extra money and how extensively you will further modify the car in the future to determine which pipe is worth it.

Yeah $215 a rotor is a really good price for DBA 4000 series, might give repco a visit today.

Skylinegeoff that would be awesome. Have fun at the track!

Thanks Jlnewton and Benm for the info, think I might go with the DBA rotors as a few track days aren’t out of the question.

Hi all, I had a quick search around but couldn’t exactly find what I was looking for, so here it goes. Breaks are coming to the end of their life and unfortunately the standard rotors are now unable to be machined back any further (front currently at 27.1mm). I have decided to go with slotted rotors this time around as one brand that the break specialist suggested was only around $50 more than a replacement stock item. Now what I would like to know is if anyone has tried slotted rotors by a company called RDA (Rotors and Drums Australia) for their series 1 GTS-t R33 and what were they like etc? At the moment tossing up the slotted RDA or the slotted DBA 4000 club-spec rotors, can anyone give me some reasons that would make my decision between the two easier? From what I can see on the forum most who have used the slotted DBA have been fairly happy. Information on anyone’s experience with either would be appreciated.

What really bugs me is its the people like bryanlee38 who really care for their cars and take such great lengths to prevent it getting stolen etc, leave the car outside for only a few days and the little bastards do that to it. It seems the people who don’t care for their similarly attractive cars in the same way and park them wherever go without any problems, funny how it works. Not to say something like this should happen to those others either but just sad to see this happen to someone who worked so hard for the car. Remember what goes around comes around.

Should do what HotR33 said, a mate with a nice car + baseball bats + = vigilante mayhem Hmmm...if only it was this easy. Feel sorry for you mate.

Yeah sewid, mine is like your friends with the element plastic piece going all the way accross the pipe. My late model series 1 33 might have some series 2 parts in it.

I think electrical contact cleaner works best as it leaves no residue. I have heard brake cleaner to be good as well (no residue) and that carby cleaner works but leaves some residue. But don’t use WD-40 as it would contaminate the AFM rather than clean it. I don’t think this will help too much sewid but in my 95 R33 series 1 it has two elements and a pink identification plate. One part of the element looks like a tiny resistor and the other is a flat white plate. What worries me is there is no mesh on either side of the AFM, it looks like the previous owner has removed them. I think it is fine for the mesh facing the turbo to be removed but not entirely sure of the ramifications of removing the mesh facing the air filter. I heard its better to keep the mesh facing the air filter as it changes the character of the air flow for a more accurate reading. Does anyone know if this is true and of any problems with both being removed? I have to wonder why they were both removed, possibly to reduce restrictions?

$250 for installation is crazy! Its really not that hard to do, did mine in just over an hour with the wiring manual provided. I would say it should take some who knew what they were doing 1 – 1.5 hours which should only cost between 60 -90 dollars. Couldn’t see how it could cost $250 just for the install and then having to pay extra for tuning.