mjfawke

From memory, ~ 15psi at idle (hot) and the rule of thumb is 10psi per 1K rpm. Cold, it will peg the max pressure on the pump relief valve until the oil warms up. A proper mechanical oil pressure gauge will tell you what's going on... except you won't be able to see the oil press in the turbo feed line. I'd be wanting to know what was in the turbo housing - a proper lab analysis of the debris and dirt. "Contaminated oil" is a total BS excuse.

Time to find a different turbo company...

So what exactly failed with your first turbo?

Two types of turbo CRH (centre rotating housing) - ball bearing and plain bush. Plain bush relies on oil pressure to build up a wedge of oil that keeps the parts separated (same as big end & mains in a car), while ball bearing just needs lubricating flow... hence the restrictor used with ball bearing turbos. Plain bushings and low oil pressure/flow = dead turbo.

Is the replacement a plain bearing turbo, and if so - did you replace the oil line to the turbo to get rid of the flow restrictor?

Ah - the TPS! I've had intermittent TPS errors for years, so hadn't bothered to consider that. But that's what the problem was - the idle switch wasn't closing properly anymore. Quick adjustment, and now it's all working correctly.

I had the AFM fail a couple of weeks ago (intermittent engine cut, 10.5:1 AFR) and finally replaced it last weekend. Car was running fine until Thursday when it had a sudden power loss for an instant, which was repeated yesterday on the way home. When I stopped at home it stalled and on restart the idle shot up to ~2k rpm. Left it overnight, and had a play today . - ECU is showing no new faults. - On startup the idle shoots to 2K rpm, AFR at 14.7:1 after about a minute - If I disconnect the AAC the idle drops to normal. - Once fully up to temp, the idle drops back to ~ 900 rpm (after say... 6-7 minutes). - If I restart the car again, I'm back with the 2K rpm idle. - temp sender appears to be O.K. (I tried a spare). - Under boost (~13psi) AFR is 12.2:1, which is around what it used to do before the AFM replacement. Any suggestions? The ECU is an RB20DET manual ECU (supposedly anyway - it's a 23710-04U00), but the loom (from an auto) isn't fitted with a Consult plug (although there is a connector which has the appropriate RX/TX wires running to it).

Gave up, ordered one from SSS in Sydney. Arrived two days later... with half the mounting flange broken off. I can't work out what they were thinking I was going to do with it... Now waiting for another one to turn up.

The toy died on Friday, dropping in and out of limp home mode with the computer showing a '12' AFM fail code. So - anyone got a RB20DET AFM lying around?

When they first released Optimax, it killed both my 240Z (worked L28) and my 260Z (worked L26). Both engines dropped cylinders due to the plugs fouling. Optimax is the only fuel I have used which has caused this problem. Never been an issue with the RB20DET in the 240Z however - but I avoid it because of the reported octane loss issues.

Nissan @ Phillip. The genuine part was cheaper than the aftermarket sh!t, and unlike the aftermarket one didn't stick closed or jam open after two days of use... You can also use a VL Commodore thermostat from Holden... but I'd go with a GTR thermostat.

I saw Terminal on Ginninderra Drive. Hey Terminal! You need a better rear muffler - it whistles like a stock dunnydore when you put your foot into it!

As only the earlier 8-bit ECCS ECU's have a separate ROM (Z32/R32) etc, and the R33 onwards use a 16 bit one-time-programmable processor, how do they tune the later cars? Do they retrofit an earlier ECU?

Well, I won't be there. F*&%$ng car is still is still in f*&%$ng pieces, still trying to sort out my leaking f*&%$ng injectors.

Well - the gasket is available via Nissan for less than $15. Apparently they have seen the light, and carry many of the service items for the imports. Bad news is that three of my injectors are stuffed - leaking from the body, not the O-Ring.

Well - the Z's off the road now The bottom seal on No.6 injector has split, so until I can get a new top manifold gasket for the R&R of the injectors, it will have to be parked.

I wish that were true, because when it had a leaking O-ring before the engine was fitted to the car, we pulled the injectors & had them cleaned and replaced all seals & o-rings. The car doesn't get driven much, and it's only been 3 years/~20K-Km since that work was done. No-6 O-ring is also leaking slightly, but the bottom seal has a split and is no longer sitting in the bottom of the recess in the manifold. I'll try and find a shop in Aus. which can get the gasket, otherwise I will have a go with the gasket paper (many years since I had to do that! Cornflake box cardboard work well for this as well, but I'll go with the real paper for this).

Well, I've split #6 lower injector seal, and the top half of the manifold needs to come off to get the fuel rail off. Trouble is that the gasket was 'repaired' the last time the manifold was apart to replace the O-rings and seals on the injectors, so I really think I should grab a new gasket or come up with an alternative. Does the RB25DET gasket interchange, or perhaps the Aus delivered R31/RB20DET (NICS) motor gasket? Or is there somewhere that stocks this sort of item? Has anyone has success with the silicone "instant gasket" tubes?

Are you sure about that? The RB20DET case has a fair number of external ribs, which the R31 Skyline/Dunnydore boxes don't seem to have (the ones I've seen, anyway).

link

I actually meant that job ~ 12 months ago. I've been 'unavailable' for ~ 12 months.

Mates R33 GTR is doing the same thing. After checking everything under the sun and then consulting with the business that did the tuning, it turns out that this is the failure mode for the idle speed controller.

Cuts into my sleep time.... but I'll see if I can make it tonight. So, Terminal - did you get that job you cut your hair for?

I'm going to go with blown piston(s), but the fact she won't crank is a worry - assuming detonation has killed a piston, it has probably pounded out the bearing as well. If you can find someone with a bore scope, they can have have a quick look at the piston tops to see if it is worth pulling the motor down. And if your breather enters the system before the turbo, you are also going to have some fun cleaning out the pipework and the IC.

I just love the 50kph speed limit introduction - what was the damned point? Sydney narrow roads - yes. Most Canberra roads - WTF?! Anyone who did 60kph on most of the narrow back suburban roads needed their heads read anyway... And where are the survey results showing how it stopped pedestrian deaths in Canberra? And how about every time they upgrade a road or intersection, and REDUCE the speed limit (Oaks Estate turnoff near Queanbeyan the most recent retarded decision...). Uriarra road between Coppins Crossing and Cotter - why the 20kph speed drop??? I think the answer is that politicians can't drive to save their lives and assume that everyone else is a retarded git and treat them as such.