mjfawke

So - why didn't you just say 'Yes'?

So - what time at the nat. museum?

The old Bosch hot-wire mass airflow meters heat the platinum sensor wire to ~ 1000C degrees on shutdown to clean them, but the Nissan sensor is a thin-film resistor air mass meter. They are not documented anywhere as being self cleaning.

Check the computer for error codes.

So - how much is insurance?

Fair enough - that will teach you to eat dodgy food before a cruise! FWIW, the only time I've had real food poisoning, it was from a hot dog - which is supposed to be the safest junk food you can eat.

Check the error codes on the computer. If you are getting a detonation code, it has probably dropped to the low octane fuel map and needs to be reset.

For a start, the head(s) and crankcase are connected, otherwise the oil cannot return. On the RB engines, there isn't a vent in the block, only the rocker covers are vented. Under high vacuum conditions, air is drawn through the PCV valve into the inlet manifold, but under all other conditions, the valve is shut. Under boost, blowby is vented into the air intake in front of the turbo. The whole point of a "catch can" system (for road use) is to separate the oil vapour out of the blowby gasses, so that oil is not fed into the inlet. There is nothing wrong with a catch can draining to the sump, as long as it is (a) efficient at getting the oil out and (B) the blowby gasses are fed back into the turbo inlet. For motorsport, the catch can is to catch the oil from the engine when it lets loose - usually there is so much blowby when a piston goes that most of the oil is blown out of the motor through the vents.

And where the hell were you? I wanted to make suggestive comments about what 'leather' you were cleaning...

Yes, but that's at 100% efficiency. Turbo's generally peak out at around 80% efficiency, and if your flow/pressure ratio is at a point where the turbine is only around 60% efficient, it will heat the air more. Which is why we should always get the compressor maps with a turbo.

Ahhh... so more than one VG30 powered Z in Canberra. Good conversion, but tricky to get right.

No downside in terms of performance... but I think the EPA might have some issues with the missing catalytic convertor. You will have some problems with flames out the exhaust - so don't let anyone get too close.

And, a few photo's (will the attachments appear.... I find out next mouse click)

Bill C, by any chance?

Lol! First time my car has been described as "Tuff", I'm sure. Happy for you to crawl all over the car0- basic answer is 'with difficulty', as you need to fab engine and gearbox mounts etc. I went with the '20, as they are damned cheap, and the car is pretty light.

What 240Z? I thought mine was the only one there...

I hope you got something for the upholstery in your car as well!

And you get a free 13mm spanner!

A friend of mine runs a VG30DET with the BB turbo - only makes 14psi boost, and drops off the 9psi in the top end. Huge FMIC, EMS computer with boost controller - full boost at only 2k rpm, MASSIVE torque in the midrange. Your friends turbo is stock isn't it? Hasn't had a super-60 wheel fitted or something like that?

Nope - scoring on the crank will be quite obvious. And the bearing is softer, so tends to die first. I've seen some scary things done to big ends which haven't done anything to the crank - such as the rod which was dropped causing the bearing to be lifted up in one corner. Rooted the bearing, but the crank was barely marked... I only suggest the 'in place' fix as a temporary solution. I'd then be saving my pennies for a full rebuild.

How many other RB20's are running with BB turbos? The plain bearing turbo would be the common one, and the compressor and turbine are different. I mean, you using a turbo meant for an engine with 50% more airflow. Julian Edgars "21'st Century Performance" book has some doco on fitting the same turbo to a CA18, which basically sh*t itself with surge.

Whoo hoo.. About ten minutes ago. Chameleon painted R33, at the intersection of Gininderra and Kingsford Smith. Stopped at the pedestrian crossing because two tarted-up 12 (?) year old girls were standing near the end of the crossing. Realised they weren't actually going to cross, so revved it, dropped it, and smoked sideways out of the corner...

If the "bov is opening at 5K" (the sound, anyway) without lifting off the accelerator, and you are getting fluctuating boost pressure, then it is compressor surge. Simply a case of the turbo being too big for the motor.

Just to point it out as an option.... if it just a big-end bearing which has failed, and it hasn't scored the crank, you should be able to replace it in place without stripping the whole motor down - although the crank girdle might get in the way of this. I would also be wanting to know WHY the bearing failed.

Thanks for the info. As soon as the current tank is gone, I'll be switching over.