Have you checked every join in the cooler piping? even a tiny airleak plays havoc with the RB ECU and gets worse under load
At Idle you should see anywhere between 1.0 and 1.7V depending on the car
You will see a tiny amount of voltage even with the AFM disconnected.
Have you tried a different ecu? the short that was blowing fuses may have friend something on the board
I get 800+ks on the freeway in my lardarse twinturbo auto Soarer (80L tank with 70L usable) with big wheels/tyres standard ECU and a heavy(ish) right foot.
I was getting 650-700ks (highway) from the R33 Gtst when I had it.
Goes to show what a careful tune can do for an RB
Cant wait to play with the 1J tune and fit a surge tank so I can use the full 80L
Valves out to test?
Did you check the manifold pressure or the exhaust pressure? and what exhaust manifold are you using?
Notcied you said you were having heaps of boost control issues? manifold might be doing funky shit to the exhasust gasses at the collector
I personally havent
Good thread on both the EFR and GTX turbos in the forced induction section
As for 17psi...well from the results I have seen, the more boost the better with either Turbo
The VQ motors are a good thing and pump out plenty of exhaust gas, might work alright.
I say give it a go if you think you can live with it, would be great for your VQ35 build in the long run.
Both are rubbish imo..the outlet is only 2.5" on those style of dump elbows
Better off with something like this
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/362300-why-are-my-tyre-marks-so-piss-weak/page__pid__5781686#entry5781686
They also have a stainless one
3" all the way through and bolt straight up to the cat