r33GTS-t-200kw

I am keeping the standard turbo until I get the funds to go bigger. Im hoping that the engine will be able to cope with around 350rwkw after the rebuild.

Hi all Ok, heres the story. After inspecting my car for an exhaust manifold leak I had been having for the past 3 weeks I got down to the heatshield and found that my manifold was COMPLETELY cracked in half. It went from a 100 dollar job (manifold machined, new gasket and studs) to a full rebuild :flamed: I have completely stripped the engine and it is now sitting on my stand in the shed. With all the auxilliarys and all that removed it is ready to go to the engine builders, before I take it to the engine builders, what will I need done to the block? I am already getting arias forged pistons 20thou over, Eagle or Crower conrods (eagle are 1499 and crowers are 1999) What are your suggestions for the rods? (I have thought about GTR rods but decided to buy new parts instead of gambling with second handies) I am getting new main and big end bearings, ARP bolt kit, and a complete lower and upper gasket kit. What should I ask them to do to the block besides bore and hone, and a complete balance? Basically I am going to do a full rebuild because as I stripped it more and more there were more and more oil leaks found. . Looked to me like it was coming from tappet cover gasket, cam seals, and possibly head gasket as it was fairly wet. I will only be getting a low mount stainless manifold, keep the stock turbo for a while and everything else pretty much stock. With these internals what power would I be looking at reliably? So, in summary 1) Besides honed, bored and balanced what else is worth while getting done 2) Eagle or crower conrods 3) What power could I run through this engine? Thanks muchly for your time

the 'soot' u are referring to is from the gutted cat more than likely, and it also tells you you are running very ruch aswell.. might be time for a better tune...

So does anyone have a definate cure for this? As my r33 series 1 does it sometimes and would like to know if it really is the ground to the fuel pump or something slightly more serious?

how do you go about replacing them?

but im pretty sure to get impressive power out of a supra is to ditch the twins and go a big single... but im not too sure... hence no point in getting a supra... just get a skyline

hahha very funny dave.. i have yet to get the car on the hoist at work so hopefully its something simple. I too have drift coil overs and hope it is a nut loose... well.. better check in case the ****in thing falls off

dude... ur posting this in a skyline forum... hmmm... but i'd choose the skyline cause it looks tougher in my opinion and everything is better than a toy-o-ta

Hi all I was just wondering if any of you have encountered a crunching noise in first gear when taking off moderately slowly, not crawling, but slow. I know that my throw-out bearing is starting to wear out, could this be the cause? Im sure you have heard about this happen somewhere along the line, well, hopefully anyways. Please post on what you think is the cause. Cheers guys

Hi all I have been noticing a fairly solid knocking sound coming from what i think to be the front end. Any kind of bump it just knocks along the road. Has anyone had this before and what could it be. It may be the ball-joints or possibly sway-bar bushes but I was wondering if any of you knew what the problem maybe as possibly someones skyline out there has had the same problem Cheers

My car is fairly standard yet making good power. MODS: 3" zorst FMIC (HKS, strange item, both inlet and outlet on same end tank) Cold air induction + HKS pod Some sort of chip, as it flies past the rev-limiter and has way too nice of an AFR curve. standard turbo running around .9-1.0 bar 207.8rwkw with a 13.5@108mph sorry about dyno size but edit: peak power is at 7400rpm

I had exactly the same problem. Got new tyres and asked for a 4 wheel alignemnt. Problem solved, no more shaking and its solid as a rock at high speeds. I think my rear wheels were a fair way out of alignment as the before and after data sheet showed alot of changed from before and after alignemnt. If that makes any sense.

going to try .7 too see if it works. tried 1.1 which is the factory setting on the iridiums in the NGK book at work. That really sucked ass. Will let you know how the .7's go. I will also be trying some of the old plugs that i have to see if its a ****ed plug.

or u could have done what i did and bought a cooler with the inlet and outlet on the same tanks. Strange setup but less exxy. Actually, while im here what are your thoughts on the in out same tank setup? is it more responsive.. less efficient?

Hi all This afternoon I went to the trouble of cleaning my iridiums and regapping them as the car has a slight miss above 4k revs on high boost. I thought re-gapping the plugs to .8m may make it go away. On low boost the car has HEAPS more grunt, but when you switch it to high boost it is actually worse. Very bad miss mainly around 5-7k. What is the reccommended gap to stop the missing? Its either plug gap or coils, but I dont think its the coils as the missing got worse :headspin: after the re-gap. Any thoughts or suggestions/reccommendations? Cheers

hahaha I was told otherwise. But you could be right. Putting new tyres on it on the weekend and will hope to see a difference in traction.

the shocks are really hard and is no good for the street as there is minimum travel in them. I am running federals on the rear and nexens up front. Ive been told that the federal tyre is good (255)

grip racing is a term used by some japanese racers for getting the best straight line time.

Hi all I was just wondering what your thoughts are on coil-overs for grip racing. Im considering swapping my coil overs for a set of super-lows because I am getting **** all grip in the rear. Cornering and accelerating. It feels like the ass very minimally squats and just lets it wheelspin. Do you guys suggest going back to normal suspension for my grip? Cheers

Ive got around 200rwkw with standard turbo. Best I could do was a 13.5 and 108mph... go figure :Bang:

I too am wondering why my skyline isnt achieving as good a time as I'd hope. Its got a FMIC, upped boost, exhaust. Its making around 200rwkw (see dyno). The best I could manage to get was a 13.5 @ 108mph. What does this indicate to you guys?

would cost around 150 bux for the top gasket kit.. and probably around 4-6 hours labor @ 55-5 bux... big money.. I know cause i have to do this to my line. but i get all the labour for free so eh cant complain.. 150 bux isnt bad for more boost

anyone got info on this one? VIN - 6t91mpr08syjpl012 ENGINE NUMBER - rb2513446a

did i not put this in the right forum? all i need to know is what wire is the tacho wire!!#@$

do it and see what happens