4door_Sleeper

There isn’t much to see (on the photos) These pics show areas that have been repaired. The left front corner had been repaired previously (in Japan) but we didn’t realise this until they started stripping it. There were many marks on the front guard once the paint was removed both from the original accident and from the dent pulling performed during the repair. The right rear had a shallow dent and didn’t quite marry up to the taillights. The shinny areas on the pics are the finished panel. (ie only metal) ** Sorry about the quality of the photos, the scanner isn't working so I took a digital photo of the prints.

Rezz - I'm not trying to make you feel bad. (98% of workshops use bog) dbn - my workshop did a major respray on my car and didnt use any bog/high fill (or on any other cars they repair). They take photos of every stage of the strip and repair, and I paid them lots of visits. VERY few shops in Australia will do this, its too time consuming (read costly) and isnt taught as a skill to the level required any more in trade school. bog will never be as good as metal finishing, but if done in moderation it shouldnt cause you too much trouble. Bog will cause problems with shrinkage (both its own and the paint applie on top of it) add this to the shrinkage problems already associated with moddern 2 pak paints and it multiplies the problem.

Ahhhhh run away .. I saw BOG in the first photo. A good workshop will metal finish the car and wont use ANY spray putty (BOG) or high fill primer. They should be able get it near pergect with hammers and dollies, then lead wipe it and file it down ready for painting. I agree that this sort of quality costs more, but the result is a painted surface that will outlast the factory original.

Steven - the shift kit cost me about $250 (I think) installed, and I believe MV automatics will sell them to people interstate/internationally so that you could have a local auto trans shop install it for you. Lukits01 - I havn't changed the stall converter yet (but I have thought about it). I decided that unless my motor/turbo combination were to only come on boost higher in the rev range then it wouldnt be necessary at this stage. The shift kit made a big difference so I am not sure that I will need to look at the stall converter at the moment.

that isnt a good sign. Lucky autos are dirt cheep if it turns out to be a worst case senario.

there are 3 vacum lines 2 are from the actuator to the under bonnet unit (???) to the inlet pipe, but the third taps off of the inlet plenum and runs direct to the control unit inside the car (- this is the line I have tapped off of the fuel regulator). I have used the shortest length lines possible between the inlet pipe and actuator (about 15cm each)

Bass Junky, it might help if you were to give an approximate rwkw figure. I would have thought 250-300 rwkw is enough, as I have not seen anyone with more than this get it down smoothly on a street car (but I may be wrong) IMHO over 300 rwkw is 4 wheel drive territory unless you are into lots of wheel spin and chewing up tyres. I also realise that the shape of the power curve will allow cars with less power to light up, but a properly tuned (smooth and progressive power curve) motor with this sort of power should be drivable on the street.

wreckedhead I am guessing you bave the seec II controler, mine only has a low and high boost button without a readout. Have you been to http://www.greddy.com/ for help. I think there is a pdf that mentions this sort of thing. (you can change the dip switch combination to make an adjustment)

A good auto will still change gears faster than a manual, and will consistently do it at the correct RPM. Giver a choice and all things being equal the auto should always beat a manual. NB - I am assuming the manual has an upgraded clutch and the auto has had a shift kit, and that both cars have similar power.

But I have sharpnes set to 100% and boost still comes on LATER than my old bleed valve. It holds boost perfectly, and has been set up on a dyno, but looking at my old graph and new graph it shows the power is down (through most of the rev range) as boost comes on later.

Lukits01 - yes my car came with a cooler, but I had a bigger on installed. (like the standard intercooler but on the drivers side) I am not sure what the shift kit contained as it was purchased and installed by MV automatics. Shifts are now a lot tighter when under acceleration, and the tyres chirp during gear changes.

My auto is running strong at 200rwkw. For serious questions about whats possible and how it should be done, ring MV Automatics in Adelaide. They added a trans cooler and shift kit to my auto and gave me the impression they were good for close to 300rwkw. There are mods you can do if you are running an auto with over 300rwkw.

Just looking for advice. I have installed a profec B (series 1) on my Rb25DET in an R33 4 door with auto and it seems to work OK, but the boost is comming on later than when I had a bleed valve. It holds boost well, and my dyno graph is smooth and well shaped, (and produces a few more kw than the bleed valve and has a much better shape) but it comes in much later. I have set the ballace to 100% sharp. Has anyone else come across this or have ideas on how to solve the problem. PS. Vacume pump is located on the strut tower next to the original boost solioid, and the vacume line is tapped off of the rising rate regulator line (front of plenum)and fed back through the fire wall behind the right wheel.

Allong the lines of: Guys if you stare at these pictures long enough you can see a a 4 door skyline, apparently the girls seem to find it instantly, but after 2 hours I still cant see it. Rather than repost the pics just follow the link to the South Australian Forum. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...d.php?p=1073698

I have used Sillins Special Vehicles (at Lonsdale) and would recomend them. Ring Wally and ask for a price

And the last few: :angel: I think I collected the whole set :bananaman

Just thought I'd share a few of the pics I took at Extreme Horsepower over the weekend.

Hi P1E You may have to trim back the support (with an angle grinder or tin snips) to fit your new bar, offer it up and look where it touches and then trim that bit. I have seen some bars that required extensive trimming and left very little of the original support. After fitting you could weld on an extra support to restore any lost strength.

Nozila - do you have any idea what Doctors or Lawyers charge? 10min Dr consult about $40 Lawyer - $200 - $2000 per hour Don't confuse the charged rate with the mechanics pay rate. The $80 per hour covers wages, wear and tear on eqipment, rent, utilities(water elect, gas, rates), superannuation, public liability insurance, taxes, and then the shop will want to make some profit. $80 sounds like a good price for an hour on the dyno.

Hi Krone I have used ROIL in my Auto (R33) but I have only done about 200km so far. Its hard to tell what difference it made/makes because I had the auto modified at the same time with a shift kit and trans cooler. (but I can vouch that the auto trans works well with ROIL inside)

Dont trust little spiders they are sneeky bastards. Big spiders do have a few advantages: 1. its harder for them to hide. 2.you can here them comming (the 8 footsteps) 3. when they bite you its easy to tell. The limb is missing or the puncture marks are the size of bullet holes. :skull:

Noone has mentioned Morpower, I have used them and Tilbrooks and found both to be good, but morpower was a lot cheaper. (and they didnt have Mick tuning the car)

If you could post a pic of your girlfriend :inlove: and the dates you will be in the UK :kick: I will see whatc I can do.

For those who have found a (one) huntsman in their car, I seem to recall hearing that huntsmen pair up (not sure if for life) so if you find and kill one, you probably have its other, very pissed off, mate/partner in the car with you as well. On that note, safe driving. (and I wonder if they found a nice place to lay their eggs)

The shock absorber is threaded and the spring sits on a base attached to this. By adjusting the thread you can raise/lower the spring, and hence the car. I want to be able to drop it on its guts for car shows and other special events but still be able to get up my driveway without loosing the front bar or side skirts, so this gives me the best of both worlds.