BAMR33

Na $200 is way too low. Open to reasonable offers... PM sending soon NIZ32

Item: Apexi safc2 Blue screen silver body Age: ~1 year Condition: Very good near new, few small scratches on back of unit from fitment not noticeable at all. Price: $270 posted To Fit: (What car) Any car really, suitable 1st modification for stock turbo cars etc. Location: QLD Toowoomba 4350 Contact: PM or reply to thread Comments: Great fuel computer for cheap, works excellent with gts-t with basic mods i.e. exhaust, front mount intercooler, fuel pump etc. Comes with apexi safc2 unit itself, wiring loom and instruction booklet

Why would you want to sell that?!?! Your going to be so pissed off at yourself when it does sell. If there wasn't heaps effort involved in transporting a car from Melbourne to Queensland, I'd be buying it for sure.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...html&hl=op6 There's a few in the for sale section just search for 'op6' otherwise just an r33 turbo, as they go well on rb20's too.

Spend the extra time looking for a good r34 turbo, it's worth it with an rb20. If you go a hi-flow or even worse a kkr lag and response will be a big issue. You probably already know the stock r34 turbo has ceramic and nylon wheels to help it spool up quick so it's an excellent option; other advantages ball bearing cartridge, big exhaust housing, no fitting issues or dump pipe modification required, dirt cheap in comparison with an equivalent turbo. Aim for average power rather than marginally more top end power as it pays off down the 1/4 and general driving around the street. As long as you don't go to far over 15psi the stock r34 turbos hold up well. Id be going along these lines. Spool cam gears in and ex ~ $200 R34 turbo ~ $400 (r32 11psi actuator, free off your stocker) Full exhaust system 3" ~ $900 exhaust shop Bosch 040 pump ~ $200 PFC ~ $1100 (really is worth the effort in finding one) Tune ~ $250-$600 prices vary heaps with tuning Intercooler Kit ~ $450 (Any Chinese kit will do)

Injectors are an unlikely as they're not going change condition over night like that. Leaking exhaust manifold gasket would be a good place to start looking. More boost, more heat equals damage to aging parts.

Interesting the GT-R doesn't look as big with a commodore in the picture. And Nissan Aus you crafting bastards! it's our gt-r not yours.

It's smaller capacity and probably limited to non turbo too... so why would you want to put a vr38de in?

Ouch! cut & polish that's nearly worse than the dog scratches on clear coat paint.

Cam gears don't squeak when they're lose, they rattle and sound like your engine is going to blow up. I should know because I forgot to tighten my ex cam once. Probably just a belt squealing same area much more probable noise. Tyre spin from 1st to 2nd? what a useless gauge of performance. Could be anything that has changed... road surface, air temp, slope, tyre pressure, road speed, clutch usage, driver control. Have you even asked what the service involved? normally a service is just oil, filter/s change and a check up on everything thing else.

Depends what your aims are... for your everyday streeter with a hi-flow turbo, slightly bigger injectors etc. an E-Manage Ultimate would be more than enough. If your going to make big power it would be better to spend the extra money and get something that's suited for tuning big turbo's i.e Autronic.

18psi day in day out on mine, no sign of shaft play or failure, probably lucky i got in early.

If you're tall don't get a rex they're hell to get in and out of and the seating position is weird. They have heaps of mechanical issues and hard to work on, I liked they're exhaust note originally but since every person with a rex has an aftermarket exhaust, I'm tired of the sound of them, they are the main reasons I've stayed away.

lolz

Remove the SAFC, check your base ignition timing, refit your stock bov and remove the standard boost solenoid this should solve your issues providing you don't have an aftermarket turbo you don't know about etc. Probably put it on a dyno just to check afr's too.

Has it blown another fuse? If not the same thing happened to me, primed it for the first time and it blew fuse, replaced the fuse and it hasn't blown since. Otherwise yeah it's probably earthing out somewhere.

Just use the s5000's, only thing is they come in a bag of like 50 but only cost about $40 for 50 of them

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...mp;hl=injectors

Give the distributer a call, probably the best way of getting the right information. Also autobarn, repco etc. have brochures on the oils, which will give you an accurate listing to what oil you need to use... The guy serving you obviously didn't look it up and that's a big no-no as autobarn is now liable for any damage done to your car if it turned out to be the wrong oil.

Item: Hicas lock Bar Age: About a year Condition: Near perfect Price: $70 delivered To Fit: (What car) r33, r34, s14, s15 Location: Toowoomba Contact: PM/reply to thread Comments:Buy it

Metal polish works better it's just a more abrasive polish than plastic polish, test it on a small area first though. I used metal polish my head lights and they came up perfect with a lot less effort than plastx.

Need it gone $240!

whizzzzzzzzzz pop! Na, probably just the sound of the different turbo. If you had an airbox on you probably couldn't even hear it.

Thanks for the response Gary, figured it out yesterday. The problem was the washer pin wasn't around near the groove on the bolt so pin was stuck on the thread, don't know how it got there but it caused me all hell trying to get if off. Another question anyone know where the factory washers should be aligned too? Bulge out toward the the hub?

Why try'n make a larger snorkel it's never going to look factory. Better Idea is to have two separate air feeds, one the standard snorkel and one the on the left hand bottom side of the filter box. Just use something like uni-filter foam sheets and a 3" intake that runs into the guard. Painted black it will be nearly invisible, similar setup to what's in the gt-r's.