Big Rizza

Styling of each is hard to judge since there is so much variation in looks due to vast array of factory and aftermarket styling parts. As far as factory models go: R31: In standard sedan form looks somewhat boring IMO. Coupe's look tough, especially in GTS-R form. R32: Like the styling of the sedan, although it's a little dull compared to the GTR. The coupe's styling doesn't make sense until the flared wheel arches and body kit of the GTR are added. Then it looks hot. R33: Don't like the sedan, nor the GTS-T, but the GTR looks okay. Really needs parts from the aftermarket to look good. R34: Not a fan of the sedan. Like the R32, the coupe really needs the GTR's pumped up guards and body kit to look good. V35: Sedan looks like a Nissan Maxima, which is bad. Coupe looks great, but doesn't really look like a Skyline IMO.

How about posting a photo so we can see what we're working with?

I know there are rotaries in Australia that run in the 7's over the quarter mile (from engines making 1000+ hp), so the fastest would probably run high sixes maybe? Advantage of Rotaries is they're physically smaller and lighter, with fewer moving parts, and generally make more power, than a piston engine of equivalent displacement. I wouldn't, however, suggest that rotaries are more suited to drag racing than piston engines. The fastest piston engined quarter miles are in the sub-4.5 second range (from engines making 8000+hp). Piston engines have had more development over history and are therefore more suited than rotaries for most applications, whether it be drift, drag, economy, towing, etc. There's simply more time, more money and more experience being put into piston engine development than rotary engine development. A rotary will never be the most economical, most powerful, or most reliable choice for an engine. When rotaries have more than one manufacturer doing the development, maybe we'll see increased competitiveness. When it comes down to it, people like rotary engines because they're DIFFERENT, not because they're the ideal engine choice.

I haven't really gotten into modifying the RB20, but I think the RB20 peak power rpm is more to do with the relatively small turbo running out of puff at high rpm, and possibly camshaft profile, rather than the inherent characteristics of the engine from the bore/stroke ratio. My almost stock RB20 (pod + catback) made peak power at only 6100rpm on the dyno. I'd suggest a high flow turbo and upgraded cams would see peak power RPM skyrocket, but I'd also suggest that Nissan steered away from this approach to minimise the gaping chasm that is the RB20 low rpm torque hole.

I've got a Toyota Yaris for daily duties and it's fantastic, although being brand new it was hardly "cheap." Perhaps the previous model Echo would suit?

Devastated. I paid for my issues.

Not sure that I agree 100%. I've always been of the school of thought that more displacement = more reliability for a given power output. With lighter cylinders and more meat on the engine block, perhaps the smaller engine would be the strongest for a given rpm and boost (assuming all else equal between the engines). But since power is all about airflow, the smaller capacity require either a) more boost or b) more revs match the power of the larger engine, which might negate any increases in inherent strength over the larger engine... Or conversely, the larger engine could match the power of the smaller engine with less boost and fewer revs, improving reliability enough to match (or better) the smaller engine... Overall, I'd say the reliability would be much more dependent on the strength of the materials, the quality of the manufacturing and the skill of the tuning. And of course the mechanical sympathy of the driver.

I know I should, but I don't hate those cars... Why don't I hate those cars?

RB into FD? Nah, there's a better option: More info and pics: http://hotrodhomepage.com/?p=83

At current technology levels, I can't imagine a 2000hp electric engine plus all the batteries required to run it would be of a practical size and weight for a road car... But someone should do it anyway!

I love "verses" threads...

If you're going to go through all that, ask to see the photo as well, just to confirm there were no other cars in the image. If there are then none of you get the fine!

Personally, I don't limit my speculating to just P-Platers. When I am on the road, I assume EVERY driver is an idiot and will crash. The amount of crashes I have avoided by just assuming every driver on the road is about to cut me off, pull out in front of me, brake heavily for no reason, veer into oncoming traffic, etc. is just astounding. In answer to the original post, I wouldn't risk losing my license by driving a car I'm not supposed to, and I'd recommend the same to you. There are plenty of decent non-turbo, non-V8 cars for NSW P Platers, and plenty of good cars under 125kw/tonne for VIC drivers... ...and plenty of everything for the rest of Australia's P-platers!

A DBS drives past you? Or a DB7/DB9/Vantage/Vanquish? Coz I didn't think they'd started Australian deliveries of the DBS yet...

Couldn't justify the $$$ for the DBS... If you want a Brittish sports car, you'd turn just as many heads with an Ariel Atom, a Morgan Aero 8, a Lotus Exige S, etc. for many less dollars. In fact, you could have all three for many less dollars!!! Having said that the DBS is pretty sexy...

Small 4WD? I second the vote for a forester, even the older generation. I was put off Vitaras after exposure my mates mid-90's model. On chunky offroad tyres, the handling and braking was terrible in the dry, and outright dangerous in the wet - gently ease up to a red traffic light and you'd find yourself at 90 degrees to where you should be facing. No violent slides or anything, just a gentle rotation until 90 degrees under brakes in the wet, imperceptible (the car has NO feel) other than the view of the scenery slowly turning around the car - kind of funny when there's no traffic around (actually, it was hillarious sometimes), but he rear-ended so many cars before he got rid of it. So yeah, no Vitara ever for me, and I'd suggest the same for everyone else.

Does the engine turn over? Electrical fault? Charge in the battery? If electrical fault is messing with the ignition, the engine may be dropping a cylinder or two causing it to run rough? Dunno, just guessing from the info you've given.

Dunno about that - I've always thought the 1JZ twin turbo to be slightly laggy... Although that experience is from a 16 year old Supra. The late model single turbo VVTi 1JZGTE is meant to be far better down low.

Not the most harmoniously styled vehicle, but I'd have one for sure!

Same engine maybe, but the soarer is heavier... On power to weight it would go: Chaser at 206kw in 1480kg-ish = 139kw/tonne Skyline R33 at 185kw in 1360kg-ish = 136kw/tonne Soarer at 206kw in 1560kg-ish = 132kw/tonne Not that I'm suggesting that power to weight is the only factor that influences acceleration...

Another chaser vote

[Removed By PranK] - Do not post copyrighted material!!

FYI you could get the 6-speed in the sedan as a special order option:

Have you also considered: Renaultsport Clio 172 Honda Civic VTi Honda CRX Peugeot 205 GTi Mitsubishi FTO Toyota MR2 S15 Silvia AUTECH (147kw non-turbo) Mitsubishi Magna VRX HSV XU6 XU6 apparently meets VIC power to weight rules, not sure about rulings in other states. My home state of WA doesn't have this P-Plate restriction cr@p, so I don't pay too much attention. Not necessarily saying any of these are better or worse then the Skyline or SSS, just showing you that there are heaps of other options around for a solid first car.

What's the deal with people saying the LS1 monsters the 2JZ for torque? 2JZ makes just as much torque as the LS1, and at lower revs. VT LS1 = 446Nm at 4400rpm VY LS1 = 465Nm at 4400rpm VVTi 2JZ = 451Nm at 3600 rpm non-VVTi 2JZ = 440Nm at 3600 rpm; or 380Nm at just 1300rpm