did you get all the crap out of the exhaust and cat(it could be full of boiled oil and turbo fins)and your oxigen sensor wont like raw oil in it.but im new to turbs
when i got my tig welder aust post told me i was not allowed to open it i had to sign clearance first
then i got chokes for my webbers(private) and it was same
and just recently a roll cage from bond for my new project and wasnt allowed to unpack it there and then
and on closer inspection those ports are real ruff so id complain too i guess
mid range power yes but less timing u can go within reason is best for top end.depends what u want?
and no u wont feel massive power gains with 100 octane but maybe 1/3 second a lap if your timed
he has 16000+ post u need to respect his knowledge on these cars and 50$ welding id still be happy but this is why i dont like internet buying,i like to see what im buying with my own eyes
can you use nitro?and get it from hobbie shop?
https://www.pricechemical.com/Nitromethane.html
or even better this product?
https://www.pricechemical.com/Super_Concentrate.html
have u cut back the insulation on plug one loom so u can get a inductive timing light on it then? as i was scared to do that and cant fit light in there.and the wire should be white right?
and yes r33 gtst
why does 200 mils of say wynns octane booster say it raises up to 2-6 points is it super duper toluene?I dont understand why u need 20 litres of the stuff?
why not use nitro methane?it just seems a rip if u need 50/50 to get decent 105 or so
I was getting overboost and underboost mixed up
But im just trying to help!
****new theory!****
maybe at a certain point the exhaust where it meets the wastegate pipe will make the small wastegate pipe have vacuum!thus forcing the actuaotr flap open more than you want at high gas speeds....thus bleeding your boost off
how big is dump pipe it only looks 2 1/4 inch?or so..
but i still think split dump is not the prob
Im a noob but will bet 1k on it that it doesnt help at all.
I have a bellmouth.
to hold 15 psi ur reversion may be anywhere in the flow path even inlet
dyno chart tells you u were fine at 10 psi ,maybe a leak after that?( i put clamps on all my hoses)things like orig boost guage may leak?
I could be wrong also
but ur right i dont like split dumps idea anyway but a split may have less presure on the exhaust side being seperate from the main exhaust presure?
u want less presure behind the flap and more pushing it open
like someone said bleed valves will taper off too if ur running dat
even a E manage i will consider but power FC,wolf ect.. the only thing im worried about is i dont want to be endlessly fiddling with it,just set and forget
regards brett
oh yeah south australian wud be great if poss just pm or post back
anyone tried to crack nut putting the car in gear and rocking the car?while having bar against ground or car~ starter motor i dont like so much
atm i dont have a breaker bar where can i get one cheap?
trim cement?comes of easy..urathane is common,double sided tape?,sign writter may be able to do double sided vynil?silicon is bodgie IMO
badge glue?
really need to see what the back looks like!
.7 bar is about 10 psi but that guage isnt very accurate if its the standard one?and 10 psi is weak i think?
and yes i mean 18 to 20 psi vacume at idle