cosworth1971

mine looks same ,i will post back

thats painfully thrashed id check crank and all,it been driven like its stolen

yes i will save mate. either it was the gap or the copper plugs?i went .5 straight up <from .66 irids but it alowed me to come back to 15 BTDC and yes a bigger gap will burn more and economy but do u think power up also?and im talking over 1-2 kw

yes 10-12 (min) is what mine is at and i have had to go to .5 plugs to stop spluttering! Im starting to get it the spring is pre set to go in one direction but the presure on the oposite direction can altered to fight the spring into opening? should i have bleed valve from near manifold or near turbo nipples?

nope new socket set?im confussed its like fungus on my sparkplug(joke).It just like the chalky stuff u see on a battery post but never seen it on a plug b4!

all my manual bleed valves say tighten for less boost and u cant breath thru them for lowest boost is what i have ??exact oposite to what people have said

its a 96 series 2 GTST RB25DET with almost no intake or exhaust restriction and i just seen 13psi(spikes) with no bleed valve installed!(just 4mm hose to actuator) can someone pls clarify how it works ,less presure to actuator =more boost or the other way around?

after installing a FMIC & big exhaust my car was blah! blah! blah! @over 3/4 throttle underload.did all the coil pak epoxy and ran down to .66 and it was still hesatating So advancing timing made it seem better it was masking the plugs because @ 25-30 btdc timing it wouldnt lag and the less the timing the worse the lag But just then i tried .5 copper plugs and went back to 15 deg timing like it should be and POW! no more blah!blah! or power stumble and it even spiked to 13psi without lag So guys with std coil paks and problem even try down .5 IMO Im so happy i have my car back after 15ooo kms of trouble :laughing-smiley-014: My theory is that weak coil paks and preasure dont mix(blows out spark) so if like me and cant afford splitfires yet try .5 for a tempish fix also i was a bit scared to do up plugs fairly tight(without too much!) but found i was doing them a bit lose <saves for new coils now with confidence thats it

so less preasure to actuator= less boost?im confussed which way it works

well it has FMIC and big exhaust but ever since i did those to my std skyline 10 psi is the lowest i can get it too.I put a manual bleed valve on it and wound it right down to try lower it to no avail. Trying to problem solve i look out the bleed valve i put in and hooked up the actuator straight to the intercooler pipe(manifold) with nothing inbetween and the boost is still 10 psi???It is actually more gradual and smooth but it would be good if i could get it down to 7 psi again to problem solve my cutting out under load. I also just found no 2 spark plug(but all others like new) with white powder on the outside like a battery clamp goes powdery!!????like what tha! a picture is in the general maitanance thread does a actuator work on pressure forcing it open and holding that psi?

just went to change plugs that have been done about 3000ks ago to try copper ones and found no2 spark plug had white powder all around outside but electrode looked like the rest.Ive never see that before and it looked like the powder u can get on a battery lead . what could it mean?and am i alone in ever seeing this.I only drive the car on weekends and rarely as u can see its just number 2 ,number one and 3 and all others are new looking

3rd is the worse gear for load and whats ur timing say?could be lose parts or bolts too

sorry .it is the nissan workshop service manual

Do people buy it from that 15$ dollar rip off guy? I got mine free and it is out there or was(it is very hard to find though and i cant rem where)but its sitting on my desktop.I got i 2 yrs ago My question is there much call for it here if i was to post it?and can 160MB+ be downloaded/uploaded here? my only problem is atm i am struggling for Download width and running on empty I did consider trying to ask for 5$ or so to cover my internet cost?no sure yet.If not it make take some time to actually upload it because im always on empty with my isp and every MB is precious to me as im just from home here.(and broke atm lol)but i would like to for everyone so i there need for it? has people payed 15$ for it? Brett

try 30 degrees static timing(but dont run it too hard until u know its not pinging) then u will ave the same problem fix as me.the only thing that has cured my problem is to wind up the advance(doesnt sound like it pinging at all).......I hope any ideas on that?( i thought too high preasure for spark?) @10 psi

cool i will go look there then.thanks

I have parts of my 60K R33 series 2 i no longer need(and yes i believe 60K is real) 1 R33 boot including type M spoiler in white(great condition)200-250$ open to offers$$$ 2 set of STD coil suspension struts(all 4) no leaks or defects.250$ open to offers$$$$ 3 Nizmo 80mm exhaust (complete to turbo)but front is 2.5 inch .350$ or open to offers$$$ 4 set of 4 16x7 STD series 2 wheels and new tyres 500$ or open to offers all non insulting offers will be considered and a south australian buyer would be best regards Brett also SDT intercooler for sale

lol il remember that

genuine is about 750$ lol vs 350$ hope they enjoy the rip off

650ft torque do you need a 10 ft extension bar for that or does metal atoms seperate at that force? are you serious? no torque wrenches will be able to do it up again? i was thinking is it ment to be 165ft pounds?

how could i test that?can i just study the timing with a light as rev it for erratic behaviour? are u saying the reading could be wrong?or the base timing move?or dont advance properly? does everyone else stay to less advance for more power?like old school(advance is just for cruise and pickup)flexability*

they do a full kit but i got sperate items it cost me about 50 $ more but i wanted a blue gates racing belt not dayco one and yes good as genuine but not for sports racing eg drift? IMO or high boosts

thankyou both il try some coppers at .6?? the funny thing is if i go crazy with timing advance it all goes hard enuf to drag xr6 turbos and xr8s with no burble but my light say 30 adv and god knows how much at 7000 but doesnt sound like its pinging its smooth and quiet(but loud lol) i have a prc rally car that runs 12 to 1 on 105 octane so i do know a bit about pre ignition. maybe my timing reading is wrong?maybe its ring slapping lol? and i cant hear it but the only answer i have got is to wind up the advance ekk! coppers at .8 seem more real but i dont know anymore lol

I got the manaul for free ,that guy who sells them is a scam! i know he got his at the same place it on the web for free

some iriduims i got from auto barn um bkr6eix ^one range cooler right? and my car was very pristene all thru,drive train, interior and all like newish some posts say 30 advance is really 15??? with cheap lights on the white wire but i have also ran a lead before i knew about the wire my exhaust and itercooler aint small so maybe is real cold and high preasure affecting a weak spark then? it got 180rear wheels KW at 9.6 psi tho:)