OMY31T

certainly will, wether or not i run as low as 12psi im not sure of, being 44, it should be capable of running as little as 15psi, i just dont want to be running a min of 17 all the time and up to a max of say 22, id rather wind it back to a tidy 220rwkw for day to day driving if i can.

i will put it back on the dyno with the manifold its got for now, the gearbox has kinda chewed up the funds i had ready for buying engine some nice spool internal engine parts, and replacing things i had problems with haha. but i will be changing to a 6boost in future, they are proven items and worth the extra cash. the external gate im not sure what brand, i bought it from the USA for about $150 aus + post, and surpriginly, ive had no boost creep and it holds shut until right on 17 psi, so its doing its job none the less, although im taking the 17 pound spring out, and putting in a 12 psi and going to run a dual stage controller so i can turn it down on the street.

if you look back around pages 25-30 of this thread u can see my original build. but yeah, all suporting mods, 700cc inj, walbro 255lph pump, stock intake(this is for testing atm, no-one else has done a setup with the stock plenum and this turbo as far as i know), XSpower highmount - wouldnt suggest these, on a hot run, the manifold buckled and needed extra bracing, umm power fc,3" mandrel stainless exhuast all custom made, z32 afm, blitz suspower pod, 44mm gate, turbosmart plumback bov etc etc. i might change the injectors before a re-tune aswell, they are only flowed stock injectors and i dont know how good they are. cant say how much i paid for the gearbox , but you wouldnt get change from 5k, but it depends on what version you buy, there is 3 of them.

my r33 will be going back into trent(status) soon, hopefully before christmas. my t67-25g setup has been proving very good, no issues yet except for my gearbox. trent, if you read this the gearbox shit the tin 2 weeks after the dyno runs so im going to guess it was slipping when tuned, and also the converter is a bit spongy and needs a rebuild(checked by knox automatics). ive been told the solenoids are fkd, the clutch drum for 3rd/over drive is worn out, and the band needs replacing haha. Anyway, i have just bought myself a fully manualised ford c4 street strip box brand new from rocket to go into the car, along with a 3000 stall converter, and a b & m megashifter. i have changed i/c the pipework again since the last tune(only made 255rwkw) and planning on going 4" inlet and moving the afm into the intercooler pipe. ive also heat wrapped the exhaust, sorted out the manifold flex issue and bought a turbo blanket. hopefully this time round, upping the boost to around 20-22psi i can make the 300rwkw i was hoping for.

$120 delivered in express airbag??? 3kg express airbag about $12. let me know. should go nice on my t67-25g

r34 autos are weaker across the board i was told strictly to stay away from them, and as far as ive been told you cannot put an r34 auto into an r33

i have a 1995 S1.5 R33 auto.... my car was putting out 225rwkw with a gt30 internal gated version. Ok, so now ive started to make more power, upgraded to a T65-25G, highmount 44mm ext gate running a power fc and mods to suit, my gearbox has a keas valve body, shift kitand manualised(3.5k worth of gear) it is now putting out 255rwkw on 17psi and so the fun begins. the clutches started to go on the dyno thus the low power figues, i rang around to have it rebuilt + a stall converter which im now looking at around 3.5k to do, and nobody can guarntee me that it will hold the power i chasing(350rwkw). You CANNOT beef up these boxes there is nothing available, so if your hunting 300+ at the bags, id look elsewhere for a box. im now sourcing and going to build a C4, its pointless spending big $$$ on an auto that "might not" hold out the power im after. cheers.

hi mate interested in complete manual conversion if you have all of it or most, im tyring to get rid of my auto. cheers. let me know how much for all of it, (box/clutch/crossmember/tailshaft/pedal etc etc)

mmm still considering it except it look like now my gearbox need a rebuild, ill wait and see how things pan out

as good as that may seem, theres no point as im trying to make more power not cut corners. when i do the oil, i will change the filter aswell, so ill take a goo look around, but as previously mentioned, the gearbox itself feels ok, so im hoping its the converter. In say that though, i need to make sure its the converter not the box, because if its the box, im going to replace it with a ford C4 gearbox built for the strip which was planned if the rb25 box blew up, i dont want to spend 1.5k on a new stall converter for the 25 box, only to find out the box is rooted and have to get another converter for the C4 lol, big waste of cash. anyway, ill open it up when i can, and see what i find. other than that, i guess i could always just take it back to knox automatics where it was built and have them check it out and service it.

just wondering if anyone has had this issue? its only recent since it was retuned with a new turbo setup and a bit more power. car is putting out 255rwkw at the momoent on 17psi running a t67. the gear box has a keys valve body and shift kit, and for some reason its started slipping when warm. its got a PWR oil cooler, im going to change the fluid in it this weekend, but im wondering if maybe the torque converter has shit the tin. the gearbox is healthy, changes fine and hard as ever, but not making any power to the wheels, just feels like a slipping clutch, comes on boost and the engine revs but puts through no power to the rear. good timing in a way as i just got a quote for a 4500rpm stall converter and transbrake from TCE converters in melb, might have to change it earlier than i thought. so any ideas?? do you guys think the converter is the the issue?

shame ur in nsw scotty, i might have considered buying this its in better condition than mine.

ROFLCOPTER !?!?!?! That is all.

lol

want some stickers?? i have some on the way. i sent an email to kando dynamics, and asked for some promotional stickers for us all, They were more than happy to help. heres the reply. Dear Man, Thanks for using Kinugawa turbocharger and like to promote this good product in Australia. I will make the stickers for you all asap. Do you mind leave your address that I can send some to you. Regards Eiji Takada so i have sent my address, and once i recieve some, ill let u all know, get some details off the poeple that want them... simon, battery, arthur.. and others, depending on how many come in the mail(i asked for around 10)

ha ha, i got a cool bullet style nut on the comp wheel of my turbz

yay, finally got my pipework fixed. lol. my carbon fibre bonnet fits again now. just need to sort out moving the AFM, 4" inlet, and a 3600 stally for it now and hopefully i can get some better numbers with more boost.

i didnt get the 300rwkw power figures on bp98, i only made mid 250rwkw, but you have to take into consideration the power loss through the auto gearbox. Trent... can u email me the dyno graphs from my runs, ill post them on here aswell. it would be good so i can compare them to when i bring the car back. i booked the car in to have the top intercooler pipe changed, when it comes back from the fabricators, ive got some stuff sorted(thanks Battery) to do a proper pressure test of my pipe work and intercooler. i think the actually FMIC is leaking and was loosing a bit of power though it last time, after further inspection it looks as though 1 of the bars is split, sigh. anyway, no doubt ill have it back in before christmas, and if i can find the cash(renovating house atm) ill get a new converter aswell. if u can send them to tek@gigabitcomputers.com.au that would be awsome.

i had a gt3076 before i went to the t67-25g, differences in setup are: gt3076 i had stock low mount internal gate .63 rear housing return flow FMIC. with the T67: new FMIC bigger FMIC pipework(went from 2.25 to 2.5") XSPOWER HPC Coated highmount 44mm ext gate and the dump has been modded to suit highmount on the exact same boost between both turbos(17psi) i saw a gain of nearly 30rwkw just from those changes, granted the difference in rear housing sizes which would make up for a fair bit of it. turbo response is not bad at all, and thats even with my auto being lazy, im making boost by around 3600rpm. As for e85 vs pump, from what i remember, but dont quote me on this, when i was talking to trent about it, he said there could be up to a 50kw gain from E85 over bp98, which would push me to around the 300rwkw mark + a few more psi, and a few changes in my setup should see me around the 330rwkw mark which was my aim, atm im around 255-260rwkw on bp98. when i go back for a tune, i might get it done on bp98, and then take it back again later on with the same setup on e85 and record the differences.

nice results, i might have 2 get mine tuned on e85 next time, considering mines auto so i lose a bit, but im still about 80rwkw behind you in power, with almost the same setup on pump fuel, hmms interesting, it makes me wonder how much difference going to 4" all the way from the pod will make and putting my AFM in the piping which im in the process of doing. only thing i do notice which was a big dofference in mine to yours battery is the torque, from memory, i had alot more torque than that, but ioll wait until i get my dyno sheets off trent.

hi trent, yeah if you could email the dyno sheets to me that would be awsome. send them to tek@gigabitcomputers.com.au . thanks. ill be ringing you soo to bring the car back in, ive done some more work on some of the things we talked about, fixed the top pipe(moved it away from the turbo), sort out injectors, ive gone up to a permaseal MLS exhaust gasket, ARP exhaust studs, getting the broken stud sorted, im also moving the AFM into the cooler piping, and going to run 4" into the turbo. still hunting down some rims... 2 many options, so this time round when i bring it in, i think we will look at maybe hitting up 22psi? if you happy to tune it up to that and hopefully we can make a decent improvement, up around 280rwkw would be nice . Also, do you think i should look at a bigger fuel pump? i have a walbro 255l/h atm, i was thinking about changing to a dual entry fuel rail, and running a 330l/h fuel pump and rising rate regulator and going up to 800cc injectors. do you think its necessary for the power im aiming at? or is what ive got sufficient. cheers.

hi mate, u still got the bonnet??? how much u asking and where in melb are you located. cheers.

ok well, first of the head stud isnt the issue, the turbo had come loose from the heat so it just needed to be retensioned. the setup i used for the intercooler piping is actually the exact same setup that is used by XSPOWER overseas and it does infact work, when i say it heats up, we are talking about such a minial power loss that its not that critcal. as for the heated lines, it would have happend no matter what i did, the wastegate line was just positioned wrong, no biggy we fixed it in 5 mins, and as for the oil return, trent said even IF i used a braided line, it would have still blistered because of how little room there is to run it past the maifold, it didnt melt, it was just getting to hot and instead of wasting my time on a braided setup he sent me off to buy some heat proof and fire proof covering for it and all is good. the job wasnt rushed at all, it took a good 6 weeks or more to complete, oh and the converter... there was no way of knowing if it was going to be any good until it was on the dyno, it feels fine to drive to me, but under high load it fails, its not to bad, but its definatly somthing to look at where i could make some power gains. anyway, im not taking it the wrong way, but alot of the time, you cant pick what is going to fail, hell for all i knew i could have went in there and had a leaky FMIC...

yeah, its nice to drive which is the main thing, i mean yeah i want to get more power out of it yet, but there no point in pushing it just yet to breaking point when theres other small things that need improving. As for the auto, i should make more power with a new converter, a normal loss of power through an auto is 10%, 10% of 260... 26kw.. im losing 40 atm because the converter isnt doing its job properly. anyway, we will see i guess, time to start putting up some more pennies haha.

i hadnt seen that, but i have seen them done like that, i might look into doing somthing like that as ill only have to replace the 1 pipe and redo the bov, which as you know was a shit job anyway, id also beable to fit my carbon bonnet back on the car. im also considering moving the airflow meter into the intercooler piping and running 4" straight off the turbo. i should beable to cut out a bit of pipe under the passengers side and put in a couple of 2.5" to 3" joiners and place it down there.