chrissso

Hey Birnie, The olny problem I forsee with your actuator feed is that the acuator will get vacuum from the plenum when the throttle is shut. I have read on this forum that the acuators don't handle vacuum too well, and the best thing to do is weld a nipple on. Here's what I did. This is my pipe coming from the cooler.

You should get about 345 rwhp out of a walbro. They don't pump as much as a bosch 040 or 044. I don't think they're bad at all. I know one guy on here who had a walbro that sucked in it's filter. And I've heard a lot of people have bought dodgy chinese knockoffs sold as walbro's. The knockoffs don't pump muh at all. (Just amke sure it's real!!) But I think they are a good replacement for the stock GTST pump - although not huge.

Is this too expensive? It's a really good car!!

I'd say if some fuses have blown, then you have a short circuit. Check the resistance of the speedo conectors, etc, with a multimeter.

Yeah, Either they are good bargainers, or It might be tade price? I got one of mine from Bearing service center and the other from CBC. CBC where about $10 each more expensive. Stil, I paid $130-40 ish all up and was happy as the mechanic could only find original nissan Idler and a VL tensioner. At $270 for just the idler - I started searching! Found this thread. The mechanic actually rang me up a few days later asking for the part numbers and where I got it! They do a lot of imported nissans.

Hey Ben, I remembered this from another post. Acording to SK, or someone like that, air flow maxing out at 5500rpm is OK. If it's maxing out at 4500 rpm, then it is a problem. You need considerably more airflow to push the voltage up higher at the top of the volt range. Another thing, my airflow is maxing out at 5500rpm as well, and the tuner said that it's no problem at all either. However, if I chase any more power at all, get the Z32 maf.

oops, I bumped it.

A the beraing place, they new that they would have a bearing that fits, but they aren;t listed i the computer system that they fit skylines. There's no point in getting them without pullies as the bearings are about $55 and $85. If you try CBC, they have different part numbers for the same bearings, are a little more expensive (not much) and they have the bearings listed as ones for skylines... I think the tensioner is the same as the VL commodore, but the vl doesn't use an idler. (or maybe the other way around) so it's not as easy to find, but it's out there!

PITS on the Gold Coast - In good old ERNEST!

Get the safc tuned- should fix it up. Other wise, here's my standard reply... Are the plugs in properly? - reseat. Are the plugs the correct heat range? - std is 5. 6 and 7 should also be ok. Are the plugs gapped to 0.8mm - std plugs are 1.1mm, regapped to 0.8mm makes a sturdier spark. Are your coil packs old and fcuked? - epoxy old ones or get new ones. It could be running rich. - ECU adds more fuel than fuel needed running more boost. This can cause misfire. - Need aftermarket ECU or piggy back cumputer and tune. It could be running lean. -fuel pump not supplying enough fuel to the engine, causing it to ping and the ecu hears this by microphones and cuts/retards the ignition. - need a fuel pump, common in early 33's

So does it go better wth the new cooler, compared to stock? Or just better now that you've fixed the leak.

Hey Bianca, Its at Pacific Pines. I'm open to offers!!

Howdy all. I'm selling my R33 to concentrate on business and paying off my house. And then I will shoot for something more expensive like a R34 or R33gtr. I have a company car and the skyline is a hobby and weekend driver. The short of it:- The car is an 1993 R33 GTST. It has 185KW in none shootout mode at the rears. (200-210kw in shootout) 86xxxkm on the clock. Wine Red. Im after $16500ono. SOLD!!! The long if you want to read:- New HD exceedy clutch, less than 10k ago, did rear seal at the time as well. Radiator serviced Timing belt done along with, Water pump, Idler and tensioner bearings, Front seal Tested compression – 150psi - even all round - this is good! JVC Kameleon stereo. Bell mouth 3" dump and front with exhaust wrap, 3" satinless catback exhaust 2 point imobilizer with remote and central locking Jaycar IEBC (Independant electronic boost controller) Jaycar DFA (digital fuel adjuster - like apexi SAFC) Tune by Matt Spry-225hp, but his dyno is 10% pesimistic. pic attached Walbro 255lph fuel pump Copper plugs gapped to .8mm Coilpacks are good - there is no misfire at all. Leather gearbox boot and handbrake boot K & N air filter under a ABS plastic partition - secured well.[/size] GBF adjustable BOV Big front mount intercooler that uses original intercooler holes, with custom polished stainless piping. Serviced every 5k 9" wide 17" work expec rims on the front 10" wide 17" work expec rims on the back type M side skirts Aftermarket front apron - not such which brand. I do have the rear pods (repaired), they need painting and fitting. All in all, the car has very good paint and body work. This is why I bought it. Kenwood dual mags in the front doors. [/size] Pics attached. I will need to roadworthy it. Inspections welcome. Please PM me, or call on 0427762040 Test drives to those who show genuine interest and come with check or cash in hand. (Just incase you crash it!!) I recon if you drive it, you will want to buy it. I think that's all, If there anything I've missed, please let me know. Chris

Here is my setup as requested. 1st photo is the cover over my air filter, this is to show you that my setup is different. My cooler and piping uses the stock holes. The next is with the cover and air filter pushed out of the way. And then a close up of the teat. I had a threaded socket welded in, then a brass pressure hose fitting screwed in. An engineering shop on Brisbane Rd, Gold Coast did it. I think it was Pro Force.

I'll be watchingo teh inhouse big sreen(at home) Even f Aussie gets tramped, I'm in it for the long run. Now is the time for world peace, that is until the games start and all hell breaks loose!! Go you f**ken aussies, GO!!

If its connected to the plenum, the actuator will cop a load of vacuum at idle. I don't think that the actuator will handle vacuum very well. (going by others on the forum). Also, because the bleed valve is hooked up behind the throttle, it will suck in air on idle (if not gated) and cause the idle to go up a bit, and the bov wont see a full vacuum when the throttle is closed. On the other hand, this is how the dogdy bloke who I bought my car off had it setup. And, it worked OK, however, I got a nipple welded on and all is good. Saw some much better gains with engine management. Either Safc or Power FC is the go. However, you need the supporting mods first like the intercooler, exhaust, boost controller fuel pump, etc.

I took my newly soldered Jaycar DFA to him for tuning. He's very good, talks straight down the line, etc. He even diagnosed a dodgey fuel pump while I was there.

I used to own a triples s pulsar and used to lurk pulsar.org.au And its my name. Kind of corny, but who gives a shit.

Hey Buddy, Is that Link plus ECU a piggy backtype? If so, then, I remember someone saying that fuel cut on an NEO engine is around 9-10psi. You might not be hitting more than 10psi in first gear. Try winding the boost back. - Just a thought.

Yeah, it's not boost cut. Well, heat range 7 is getting a little cold, should be OK, but may have something to do with it. You will run rich in winter. And do you have the full code for the sparkplugs?

That thing is based on an Ariel Atom. Super light car with a 300 horsepower honda 2ltr engine (with Vtech-yo) Acceleration like an F1 car due to power to weight ratio.

From your graph, I'd' say that its running to rich. That AFR of 11 can be put up to a 12 by piggyback or ECU and you'll get more power as well. IMO cold weather makes skylines run even richer and then you get misfire. Is your engine the original 94model? Some of the newer rb25dets have a lower boost cut. Anyway - still think that it's just running to rich.

I had a problem where the fuel would stay on full for 100km or more, then go up and down getting lower quickly until around empty. FIXED IT! The problem was found when I replaced my fuel pump, The float sensor thingy had come off it's mounting clips (next to the fuel pump) and was floating around the tank, then coming to rest on the floor of the tank when empty. I slid it back onto it's clips and so far, so good. You have to access the inside of the tank frombehind the back seat. Look at the how "how to change a fuel pump"thread for instructions on how to do it.

Have you got an AFR graph from the dyno? What boost on the dyno? It's getting to winter now and cold air is more dense and this will effect things as well.

Hey, I just found out something. I have a DFA and lately on cold nights, I have been loosing power between 5000rpm and 7000rpm,and going through more fuel. Plugged in the controller and found that the input was 1 and the output 0. SO I pulled it apart and found the red led wasn't on. The "switch in" was not working. I had to adjust VR4 to get it to switch on when the engine turned over. And now the red light comes on. So I'm not sure how this happened. Maybe vibrations caused VR4 to unscrew changing the resistance, or maybe it's because I changed batteries and the alernator doesn't charge the battery as vigourously anymore (the old one was fooked). Anyway, just thought I'd share.