chrissso

Hey mate, Are the plugs in properly? - reseat. Are the plugs the correct heat range? - std is 5. 6 and 7 should also be ok. Are the plugs gapped to 0.8mm - std plugs are 1.1mm, regapped to 0.8mm makes a sturdier spark. It could be running rich. - ECU adds more fuel than fuel needed running more boost. This can cause misfire. - Need aftermarket ECU or piggy back cumputer and tune. It could be running lean. -fuel pump not supplying enough fuel to the engine, causing it to ping and the ecu hears this by microphones and cuts/retards the ignition. - need a fuel pump, common in early 33's Its a 94 GTST which usually has a boost cut around 12 psi, so MOST probably not it..

^yeah, he's right bout controlling boost with your right foot. If you are driving aroung town like a granny, the chances are that your not putting more than one 1lbs boost into the engine anyway. So, putting on a one pound actuator wont improve your enconomy at all, if you granny drive it. It will be the same. If you have a boost guage, you can see how much absolute pressure is in the manifold, and you can reduce or increase it by controlling the throttle. Also, you need to bypass alot of exhaust via a wastegate to acheive 1 lbs boost. So your wastegate is probably not be big enough to cope with all that flow.

You have to check that out with an occilosope. I'd guess that it would be pulses. And so many pulses per revolution...

Yeh, I had a fuel smell. Traced it for ages and found is was worse with the windows down. The seal that holds the new filler cap and filler restrictor neck (installed at compliance) was glued in with what looked like gasket goo. The fuel disintegrated it and the smell would leak out and get sucked into the cabin by a vent at the back and the open windows would draw the smell all the way to the front of the car. I yanked out the fuel filler neck restrictor and whacked it back in with some sikaflex. Worked a treat. No more smell and now I get a satifying whoooosh whenever I open the petrol cap. Unfortunatly, when you fix it, the issue sometimes reoccurs. The pressure builds up in the tank when you drive and splash the fuel about. Like when you shake a tin of petrol, the tin expands. This positive pressure probably causes the seal you made to blow again. Mines been going ok for a while. But I keep an eye on it. The oil smell, well, I don't know. It could be the oil that was leaking out of your engine is still burning off. Or you could be getting a woft of rich burnt fuel from the exhaust. I get something like that every now and then when I give it a squirt.

Weekend warrior...

Wow. That's good!m Why is it so good? Cams? I didn't mean to imply that it was a little laggy. By saying pretty reasonable, I meant, well, great.

Im on 7 lbs at about 2200rpm - stock turbo. 11 pounds is about 2500. I would expect that to jump up another 1000rpm. Thats the same lag as an sr20det - pretty reasonable.

Here's a diagram of what I interpreted from discos other post...

Howdy, Here'd be my suggestion. 4 volt preout head unit. - $500 Splits in the front $300 Sub - $250 4 x 100 amp $500 mdf sub box $100 to make. cables, wires - $50 $1600 - but will be a good stereo! These prices are based on good shizzit. You can get cheaper stuff at Jaycar and is not terrible stuff. But don't forget, you get what you pay for. I'm sure there is a search you could do to find out even more!! There is also a Car audio section to help you with installing it!! Now that... is quality forum.

k. Thanks Guys. Well I got an answer from GCG. They say "Chris, The A/r will be the same but the larger wheel will cause a little more Lag." Which would indicate that they only bore out the outlet and not shave anything out of the inside of the housing.

I'd agree with that. But like SK has pointed out - there are better options for timing. I guess I overlooked the whole stagea thing as I have a manual skyline... The fact that SK couldn't put in a PFC is the major reason this thread was started hey!

I understand that there are many factors in turbo dynamics, but the main 2 that I want to know are compressor trim and turbine housing a/r. I understand also that GCG don't want to give away there secrets and dimensions of machining ect, but all I would like to know is the final a/r of the turbine housing after machining. I don't think that they should object to this. Anyway, I'll probably get a responce tomorrow. Incidentaly, I wouldn't be put totaly off a GCG. They are easy to fit and there is good feedback on the forum. It's just that from the results, the nengun hks gtrs kit seems to be the sweet spot. I noticed that the gcg hiflow has a 14 blade compressor. I was reading mafias thread about his upgrade and do remember someone (maybe discopotato) saying that the 12 blade is better suited. Anyone got anything more to back this up? Thanks

2825 should say 2835 - my bad...

Well, I already looked at the web site and there was nothing. I've emailed them this morning and will probably have to wait until Monday. If they can't tell me a simple thing like what the new a/r is, then I might be convinced to go HKS..... I searched for hi flow and got more results. Found this:- (all results include supporting mods) GCG hiflow is at 1 bar between 3200 to 3500 rpm. I would estimate that the a/r would be around .63 to.7 rwkw 220 to 260 with cam. GTRS 1bar at 3500rmp a/r.64 rwkw 240 to 280 with cams, freaks hitting 300 2825 1 bar between 3500 and 3800 rwkw 250 to 300 cam. Deoending on A/r as well. Most of these seem ot have a/r's around .6 to.65 Can anyone tell me more about where boost comes in and full boost with bigger a/r Anyone know the a/r of the 300zx turbinehousing? Thanks for any info.

After you give GCG your turbo and they machine out the turbine housing to a bigger exducer diameter, does this affect the A/R? Is it the same, or more? Also, I searched GCG* for any date and got this below... (is the search working?) I didn't find any specs on the GCG site. You searched for: gcg* Unfortunately your search didn't return any results. Try broadening the search parameters by searching by different keywords or altering the format of your search. Remember to use the wildcard '*' to increase the number of matches. Apple* will match 'apple' and 'apples'.

Hey Mate, You can get a misfire when ECU picks up detonation from the knock sensors because it adds fuel and retards timing. You could have detonation from leaning out. Cold air is denser and requires more fuel. Furthermore your fuel system might not be coping with the extra demand. I would get the air/fuel checked on the dyno, and maybe your fuel rail pressure. As stated above, you might need a new fuel pump. The stock ones are old (16 years in your case) and don't pump much more than needed in a gtst. So with 11lbs of boost, it could be your problem. Infact, the best thing to do IMO is replace the fuel pump anyway and get the standard ECU remapped. If you already have a new fuel pump,then you might be running to rich! either way, a ECU remap will fix it. If the a/f ratios are good, then at least if you still have the misfire, you know that the engine isn't going to blow up!!! Misfire issues from here are then resolved with things like sparkplug gapped to .8mm new/repaired coil packs and injector cleaner etc.

How do they get around HICAS and 4ws?

For the hypothetical argument:- For the ignition timing, I think that you would need a dpa to intercept each spark plug. Thats if that is how they work. That's 6 bulky shithouselooking cream boxes that you would have trouble hiding in the non existent room behind the dash. The idea is good, but I think if you had to buy 6, the cost would be similar to a unichip. Or maybe I'm looking at it the wrong way, are you saying that you intecept the signal from the CAS? That may work... Or something else that the ECU uses to calculate the ignition timing. Unfortunatley, I don't know enough about CAS signals or format. Maybe someone else could enlighten. The real answer is stop fuggin around and get a PFC. I think that basicly, if you want to do more than bend the AFM voltage, then a PFC is the way to go as it can give you control over everything. Easy to fit, better tuning results and less ugly plastic boxes to hide. I do know that they can be used to do a speedo correction. You might be able to use them to fool the speed limiter. There is probably a 101 uses for them, all limited by you imagination.

swish!! Did you get deeper on the back than the front?

Why don't you go an odd 7? 6 running off the engine and 1 runningoff all of the combined wastegate collections. Wouldn't be that hard and cheap too? This guy did a car with 8. BEAT THAT MOFOZZZ!!! It has 50 hundered horsepowers. Eidt - damn grammar.

Nah..

I bought a new Walbro off a guy on these forums. It came with a rubber foot to mount it into the bracket that the original pump fits into. Not noisey, pumps far better than the original, easy to install. Very happy:)

I get between 300 to 400km per tank in a r33gtst, modified. Petrol has gone up, but it's not that much. think about those poor pommy bastards that are paying the same amount of pence per litre that we pay cents. Now that's harsh. That $120 to fill the skyline!! At the end of the day, It's only ten bucks more per tank. IMO not worth giving up the performance car, not yet anyway. Buy yourself a skyline son, or keep it, or whatever.

Hey Mate, I have a couple of questions. During the 10 min that it was good, did the boost come in quicker? Was it at full boost earlier? What kind of engine management? Did you get it tuned? Reason I ask this is because what you need is a new gasket. If it went well for 10 min and you liked it, it might be worth perservering with it. I think that gasket sealant you used didn't take the pressure inside the mainfold. I believe that the pressure in the exhaust mainfold can get up to double the boost, silicon or whatever isn't going to handle that amount of pressure. Tuning can help spool turbos earlier as well. It sounds like it could be heaps of fun if you get it right!!

Hey Mate, Thanks for the posts. It's been fun! I liked the part about the passer-by! I just have to mention that you can melt and bend a pvc pipe with a hair dryer... I'm a little worried for you as the pvc is also on the hot side. Is it just temporary? As I would replace it... Anyway - just my constructive input.