chrissso

Oops.. accidental post... please ignore Free bump i guess!!

BTW, I have one of these turbotechs for sale here. ~SOLD~

Rich and retard! Your just misfiring. The ecu pumps heaps of fuel and pulls back timming to adjust for more boost. You need air/fuel meter management. - Like Apexi safc2 or jaycar dfa. Or Apexi Power FC - ECU replacement. Maybe plug would help. Just my opinion.

Hi all, I have and EBC now so I have a one of Simarks Turbotech boost controllers for sale. Very good control - no spikes - easy to install, etc. The thread for the device can be found here. Item: Turbotech boost controller Location: Gold Coast Item Condition: Good Reason for Selling: Now have electronic boost control Price and Payment Conditions: $20 + postage - pickup available Extra Info: It's red! Contact Details: PM, post in thread or call on 0427762040. Thanks Chris

I have an ajustable spring rate bov and I'll do some experiments with it. At either extreme it will give you lots either of flutter or lot of phish. Then i'll post the results. I have played around with the adjustment before though and I didn't notice any difference in immediate power after gear change. However , I wasn't looking for it. Its interesting to hear what alot of other people say in other threads about the improvement in performance that stock BOV gives them vs atmo bov... Alot put it down to the adjustment of the atmo bov. My car never came with the stock bov so I don't know.

Good price!!

I tuned, well started tuning the ebc today, what a bastard! Boost was going up and down like a camels back! Me and 2 mates took a while to get our heads around it. Works pretty well though. I'm having trouble getting a flat boost curve. I think I read somewhere in another post that a 1mm vent size might be to small and causes symptoms like this. Anyone share this experience? My map start average is at load 21 and 10psi is achieved at about 35-40% solenoid duty thoughout the higher loads. This seems low in comparison to other maps posted on this thread. . Should I drill a 1.5mm hole?

Hey I think that might be your vacuum line to the breaks?? Sounds like you just have no bov!?!? Got any pics? This would help.

To clear up. Bov's in general remove surge. Plumback bov's are more emmision friendly. So, nissan fit plumbacks instead of atmo. yawn.

I got all my car back together today (well most of it) and tried out the IEBC. It's setup with 0% to load 10 and then 100% up from there, 1mm bleed hole. I immediatley noticed a difference in the spool speed. Realquick! Even when off the boost for 2 sec and then back on - even quicker! I will tune it on the weekend and tell all. I got the wife to check ot the max duty cycle. It was 52 at 6700ish. Seems high for 8psi. I haven't tuned the DFA yet so this may come down. Probably not much though.... What a heap of FUN!

Cool thanks,Will come in handy if I go to the track!

Will this work on a R33 - or just 32?

Well... The turbo is still spinning in the same direction. And so the force would still be on the same side of the turbo blades - the leading edge. Here's why. Surge is just air escaping back through the blades because the pressure inside the plumbing is bigger than the air pressure being pumped in. You get flutter because the turbo is still spinning after a surge and now that the presure is lower inside, the turbo draws more air in again. Then it surges again etc, etc. So multiple surges gives you the flutter. So, If the force was on the other side of the blades, the turbo would spin backwards and you would not get the repeated surges. I agree with what someone else said on this thread that backward spinning turbos is a myth. They spin at 100,000 rpm, you can t easily stop that, lots of inertia built up there. You would need really friggin high boost and high boost means a turbo spinning at 200,000 rpm - Even harder to stop.

Same here.. Should be good to 200rwkw.

Well.... The air in the plumbing has to go somewhere right? It goes back out of the turbo (surge) and into the atmosphere, passing the airflow meter on the way which read some airflow and the ecu pumps fuel through your injectors giving you a black puff of smoke. If you have an atmo BOV, the turbo keeps sucking air and the air flow meter reads the air - etc.. see above for the rest. A plumback keeps the air circulating through the plumbing,after the airflowmeter, the aflowmeter doesn't register any airflow and there is no polution.

The air might flow a different way but the force is in the same direction.

This is correct. Plumback BOV's were fitted on skylines for emmission control... I think they are alright. They're one of the reasons I like turbos... My 2 bob.

Call me main steam but I like the Daddo 180b with the sr20 combo. I have dream of a 350CI into an older merc. and a ej20t into somekind of boat - bit off track I know...

Yeah mate - all inclusive I ended getting onefrom BSC and the other from CBC. CBC had them listed as different part numbers though - but the numbers were stuck over the original part number (???) The mechanic pretty much insisted they be replaced. He's stoked that he knows where to get them cheap now too! Thanks again!!

Hey Guys, This thread helped me as the fool who own my car previously wired the ignition imobilisation to the starter motor. so the car would arm 30 seconds after starting the car. No wonder he didn't have the siren connected!! You couldn't restart it if you stalled unless you unarmed it , but then again you could roll start it anyway! Great security. Anyway, Thanks to the thread I rewired my alarm using a relay. I could not make sense of the diagram provided by Chris Rodgers but this is how I did mine and it works a treat. you can arm it with the engine still running and It wont set of the alarm either. if you put the key back in the ignition after arming it - it will still cut out. You might be able to integrate a fuel cut but I don't know. You might be able to utilise a 555 timer from jaycar which might give you a fuel cut time delay, or simply another turbo timer connected where your fuel ut is. Anyway - here's my wiring.

WOW!! I just filtched your idea for securing the subs to the floor. Good job man. Very clean install. Your first? EIDT: - OK I just read your post again - excellent first job. My positive feedback would be to add more colour and a range of different coverings for the boxes, but don't go overboard. Flames and shit (is that too rice though?).

I had a bit of this. Boost went from 6 psi to 10 psi depending on revs. Turned out to be a new k&n pod filter. The old pod filter was more restictive and flowed less. BUT, with the old pod, the boost will rise from 6psi to 9 psi and then reduce to 8. I have a dump pipe too and thought it was it helping this issue as well but after talking to a few people, this was dismissed. - still dunno though. Anyway - the most common cause of this is an air leak in your vacuum hoses to the actuator - so check these out first. And, you could be right about the reducer causing a restriction. Retuning your IEBC will probably help you get a flat 8psi though. Isn't the yellow banded pipe the restricted one? Or is it the red...

Fark. Friggin link #5. Different in the book than on the PCB diagram. Looks like you have to follow the book for ALL links, not just the links with jumpers. The other problem. I wired my power to acc and the solenoid is wired to ignition. So, the controller would come on at ACC (for testing) but there was no power to the solenoid - solenoid not work. Might change that for safteys sake. Anyway. Thanks SK for everything. All in all, very easy. Minimal trouble shooting, etc. Chris

OK, Cool. With that in mind I shall check out the links and read the book. Thanks..

Yeah, I read back through and found that.. I couldn't figure it out. I have a feeling that the Stag with the r34 spec ecu may use a positive switching solenoid. According to this diagram, the r33 is negaively switched as one side of the solenoid goes back to ignition. (Please ignore ths CUT's) I whacked a multimeter on the number 25 wire going to the engne bay and sure enough, 12v when the ignition was on. I'm going to do the experiment mentioned in my other post and I shall let you all know of the results. Does anyone have a link to the r34/Stag wire schematic? I found a pinout list only.