chrissso

OK, so I fitted mine today and the boost went straight over 10lbs on lowest setting.. I put mine where the t peice is that leads off to the solenoid. Is this right? Any ideas? Wasn't game to find out how high it would go... By the way, I bought my car with an upgraded FMIC, and the actuator was connected to the BOV by another t peice. Where does the actuator get its reading from in a normal R33? Before or after the throttle? I thought that it was suposed to be before the throttle body and whoever hooked mine up did it wrong. Can anyone post a pic? Thanks.

Just got mine - fitting it tonight - maybe the weekend...

I've had this before. Only assuming, but - Sounds like the bleed valve is on the same pressure line as the BOV. The bleed valve will backflow and let presure in instead of bleeding when the throttle shuts and that means that there isn't a vacuum behind the BOV, so it wont open. Then the turbo surges. Thats why I'm getting one of these... My idle was higher, due to air backflowing through a bleed valve. Then I noticed that the BOV would not blow off when I increased boost.

RAD!!! Will check those sparkys...

Yeah, This is how I'm gunna set it up. As for the bleed bit - I think you misunderstood me. Maybe another way to say it is, this device was intended to be hooked up in series. If you hooked it up in parallel, Theoretically you could use it as a bleed valve. So instead or restricting air to the actuator by tightening it, It would be bleeding air out by loosening it. Afterall, thats what the solendoid does. It's all in how and where you hook it up. (lost anyone, he he) Anyway, It doesn't matter. I'm not going to risk blowing my engine for some experimentation. So I will be hooking it up in series - the way everyone else hooked it up. Can't wait to get it - I'm only running 6.5 pounds of boost ATM... Yeehar!

Yeah, I've rethought my experiments - Don't want to break anything... When I first saw this contraption, I thought that that was how it worked... ie, remove the solenoid and plug it into when it used to sit, and bleed air. Now I see that you plug it in where the solenoid t piece is. Cool, Thanks anyway...

Hi Simark, Just a quick question... Can you use this to replace the skylines boost control solenoid and use it as a bleed valve instead? Have you done any testing with this setup? It seems possible. I have just bought one of these on ebay (didn't know about the $28 skyline special. D'oh!) When it comes, I was going to do some experiments and use it instead of the bleed solenoid, starting with the one way valve fully closed and then losening it off to bleed air. Any quarms? Thanks Chris

Springs are sold!!! Somebody make me an offer on the front bumper... You know you want it.. he he. :ufo:

Forums are great!!! I've been stressing about this problem I have where at 5kRPM, I lose power and get backfires. I think my problem is coils!! I though it might have been fuel pump or fuel blockage. (i realise it could still be this) What I want to know is does this cause any problems to your engine - like leaning out fuel would? Asumming that coils are the problem..

Absolutley no idea? I'll ask some couriers and find out...

Here's a pic with the springs fitted to the car. enjoy...

I dont need these anymore and was wondering if anyone want to buy them? I want about $100 for each ono. plus postage. The springs are approx 20mm lower than stock. Any q's or bid's, just PM me. Will post to Australia. Cheers!

Just a quick note for those who already have a pod filter... I can get ABS blanks with a 90 deg bend in them... Got one for myself, because I have custom intercooler plumbing. I just need to shape it myself. If there is intrest, PM me. They are about $30 plus P & H. Probably less for group buyy. Pics attached. Chris

Got Marshmallows?

Oops... Busted. :Oops: Yeah, bit of a forum hussy. I had a tiny leak at my dump flange and needed to know how hot it get so I can get the right stuff. Looks like I won't need it anymore anyway as I found some loose screws... Still interesting to know though...

I found this: http://www.nizpro.com.au/media_main.html Its a ford BA XR6 engine with 1000hp. Nice red glow....

Hi people out there, I was just wondering if anyone knows how hot their turbo's get. I know that this is a "how long is a peice of string" question but I am interested to know if anyone has gone for a drive or race perhaps and whacked a laser thermometer on their turbo just to see how hot it gets. Perhaps someone has read this info some where. If you have, then please tell... Your tubo size and engine will make a difference in heat as smaller turbos run hotter, etc. Obviously, there would be an operating range depending on how hard you drive, etc. From what I understand the operating temp could be anywhere from 100 deg c to 1000 deg c! Anyone know? Chriso

Hey Liners... I looking to buy either a standard clutch or a dakin heavy duty clutch. What i some good placed to enquire around Brisbane, Gold coast area? From the back threads, there some place in Slacks Creek ? What's it called? (Search doesn't seem to be working at the moment.) Thanks Chris

BTW - How much should a new standard clutch cost me on a series1 R33? Thanks

Hi, My clutch is slipping and needs replacing. I'm wondering about the patrol clutch mentioned and just wanted to know if there was a specific patrol clutch that fits... Which model, year, etc... Thanks for any help Chriso

Very Noice...