chrissso

Yeah. That's right... all you need to do iin a skyline is connect tto the wire from the ECU to the solenoid. The solenoid has an ignition switched power supplied to it on its other wire and the IEBC just earths the solenoid to open it... I found this out the hard way. This thread was really handy when I was confused...

Yer, he had 2 dials on his software that he had to match. I think one was the ECUs target and the other was the calculation of the afr, and he said that because they didn't match, the ecu's fuel trim was adding fuel to compensate (?) (got no idea hey... ) Interesting though...

lol at this thread! especially the 2f2f references. We would all know better without it.. Here's what I recon, v8 sc's have a dog box and to change gears they just ease off the gas and push hard on the gear stick in the direction on the next gear and it should slam into it. The lifting of the gas helps it pull out of gear. I think you need to double clutch on the down change only though. Only Vin Diesel needs to double clutch on the up change... I know this chick who's fiance had a dog box in his liberty and she said it was a pain in the arse to drive around town because of the double clutch on the down change. However, the up change was sweet! Just lift of the gas for 1/2 a sec and SLAM! Then he sold the car to someone who didn't double clutch it an suprise suprise, it broke about a month later...

~SOLDE~

Hey All, I went to the dyno yesterday and got my DFA tuned. It took an hour and a half. This is what we did, -Adjusted the fuel trim. Some one will have to explan this to me but he added in more fuel down low. I've seen this on SAFC graphs and I dont get why you increase the voltage at cruise levels. Power run - low boost. Suprisingly, my fuel ratios were 12.5\1 with out any adjustments. I put this dwn to a slight BIAS of about -0.03 volts at the top end. -tuned the IEBC to about 11 PSI. -High boost run Now for the bad news. He found that at high revs the ECU was pulling out a heap of timing - and getting up on the knock sensor. Timing was found to be at base 20 deg. for some reason unbeknowst to me, so he pulled base back to 18. Still had issues. Hooked up the fuel pressure guage and foung that PSI was dropping from 51 PSI to around 40 at high revs. Looks like the fuel pump is shagged. This will also account for the 12.5\1 fuel ratios that magically happened on the low boost runs. SO, we actually added more fuel in at the top. I'll need to go back after the fuel pump is replaced to retune the top end. The DFA seemed to work really well in what it was suppose to do. A couple of extra things I found was that I hooked up a Ford EL o2 sensor half a week ago and the tuner said it wouldn't work as he had a 32 that came in with the same thing and it didn't work - however, when we plugged in the laptop and checked out the sensor reading it was working. AFR's on his sensor were good too. So there's one myth busted. Mind you, It's probably different between models. Mine's a Series 1 R33. The other was the flames that were coming out the back on high boost. Looked good, but I've no idea if it was good or bad for the car!! All in all, it was a fun day.. No hard reving for me though until the fuel pump is replaced. Dyno graph is attached. He says his dyno read 10% lower than normal.. Looks to be about 170rwkws.

Got any left? Are these IN TANK models? Thanks

Thanks for that.. Thats why I asked the question. I couldn't see why journals were faster spool than BB. I guess I got the wrong impression. Skylines have roller bearing turbos, with ceramic turbine. So what's the pros and cons between a BB and roller bearing turbo? Is it just that the bearings are cylindrical instead of balls? I think that rollers canhandle more weight, like in a road wheel stiuation. The bearing has to carry the weight of the car...

Its the size of the vent... alhough 1mm to 1.25 mm doesn't soundlike much - its whats making the difference. I have a 1mm vent and My duty cycle is 32% to make 10 PSI... So, it sounds right. I can't find a 1.25mm drill bit anywhere.. Someone on this firm was using a 1.5mm vent and it wouldn't boost below 13 PSI...

Hey skypeople, I'm interested to know peoples opinions about the different styles and types of turbos out there and what their pros and cons are. I think that skylines, from r 32 to 34 and some 31's use ceramic roller bearing tyoe... Please note that this is only what I've heard and feel free to set me straight if I'm wrong. This is my knowledge so far - Please confirm. Journal bearing - uses oil as its bearing against a plate. pros - quick to spool cons - needs more time to warm up to a safe operating temp so that the oil lubricates propely, prone to early failure. Ballbearing - uses ball bearings to hold shaft in place pros - robust and long lasting, very efficent as in spins freely without much friction, does not have a long warmup time. Very fast. Cons: slower to spool Roller bearing - no idea, apart from sound like it would be the same as a ball baering type. Ceramic - ceramic turbine wheel pros - lightweight ceramic turbine has low inertia and allows for a quick spool up time - Low rotating mass. Cons - fails at high boost due to turbine not being as strong as metal turbine. Does this sound correct? Thanks

From the original run dyno graph, It looks like a heap of misfire and "rich and retard" strategy from the ECU causeing a shithouse top power reading. Got any torque graphs?

Hey Duncan, what do you mean by this? Do Viscous LSD's wear out after a while? Approx how old are you talking?

I have an r33 airbox and filter with snokel lying around the garage collecting dust. Does anyone want to buy it? Item:R33 series 1 airbox,has snorkel and filter. Location:Gold Coast Item Condition: As good as can be expected. Reason for Selling: using valuable space in my garage. Price and Payment Conditions: $50 neg. + maybe postage if expensive. Extra Info: Can post pics if needed, but it's an air box, thats all. Contact Details: 0427762040 or PM or post here! Email me at [email protected] Thanks

Hey Gengis, Please post your results somewhere as I'm getting my DFA tuned on wednesday. Then PM me or something so I can find your post... Got these mods, turbo back 3", big cooler, pod. Chews 18l per 100km.

The Hookup... This dudehas got aclutch for sale...

Ha ha, I see you gave in!! I think its worth it, so do they I bet. Hence the price hike...

Thanks Fat32. I looked up a kiki diesel one and it's not the same either. Does anyone know where to try to get one on the Gold Coast or surrounding areas? I've tried alljap and Rolin imports. Chris

Hi All, My A/C compressor has seized and I need a new one. After speaking to part importers, it would seem that there are 4 different compressors fitted to skylines. Calsonic, Hitachi and 2 others.. I've looked at it and can't find any brand names - where should I look? If I put photos of it up, could anyone tell me what it is? I've compared it to a calsonic item off a rb25det engine but it does not look the same. The Skyline in question is a series 1 1993 R33. Thanks to anyone who can help. Chris

Thanks Mate, I'll see you then. Can you PM me some comtact details? Thanks

It has to be a 25pin RS232 serial cable.. I think it says this in some of the earlier posts.

I tried 3 cables lying around the office until I got one that worked, so I don't think that you have blown it...

Hey Gor33, I thought I PM'd you about the heat sheild. Is it still up for sale - if it is it's mine - I can pickup from you ASAP, unless you want to deliver it? PM me... Thanks

Sold..

Thanks alex - I am still tuning it slowly. I got it flatish from slow start but then when I booted it in higher revs, it would spike to 15PSI!! I think the map started to high. I brought the map start average down to about 18 - much better. What duty cycles are you using with a 1mm vent? Mine go:- 13-8 14-12 15-16 16-20 17-24 18-28 19-32 20-36 21-40 22-40 23-40 etc. I think that i could probably make the map steeper and I might even change the 40s to 36's as boost hits 10 and drops back to 9-9.5. Then I'll fine tune it some more. I can't easily find a location under the skyline dash to fit both the IEBC and the DFA. Found room for one only. I don;t really want them in the globox - they don't fit that well in there either!

The emmission regulations were changed not long after 86 and car maunfacturers were always ahead of the regs by a few years. That would support agument for fitting bovs for emmision control. Otherwise, why don't VL's have bovs if they prolong turbo life? Have you noticed that fewer turbo cars are coming out of Japan recently due to even stricter emmision laws changing again? Don't forget that in a non bov'd car that the compressed air still has to go some where. Some of it would go through the idle jets (old carby speak) or whatever it's called. The rest has to surge out in bits through the turbo. This released air still has to go through the MAF in reverse. You might even get an occilation of air in the MAF from the surge. this air will still register and the ECU will still calculate an amount of fuel to squirt into the engine. And this will just vapourises into smoke as there is very little air actually going through the engine to burn it up.

Car manufacturers try to get there cars as quite as possible so nissan fit a bov to prevent surge noises, and plumb it back to eliminate atmo presure release noises and help with emmisions. If it does infact prolong turbo life, then I guess its an added bonus. But at an expected factory boost of 5-7 psi - it ain't gunna do shit to the turbo if you remove the BOV.