chrissso

LOL!! Sounds good!!! You can port the turbo and the pistons at the same time as well!!! Did someone find your computer logged in? Or are you bored...

AFAIK Bosch 044 is external. Bosch 040 is designed internal. Although you could probably run either in either situation. not an expert.

Are you getting 11.4 AFR on wide open throttle? Or just crusing and Idle? 11.4 on full power is not bad. However, 11.4 at cruising is rich. Pretty much what ^^^ said

PVC piping - yeah - I'm going to do that next - tape wers out quick. I tried it once but couldn't get the right sized pipe. I found some vids I did for an editing class minicar.wmv minicar2.wmv

That's really hard to do. This guy is good. Very consistent too. Foxnice - It looks real time to me too. Sounds right as well. I taped up my wheels for some drift fun and I haven't gone back to spongys. You can do awesome fishy's. really quick doughnuts. Me and a mate always wanted to get some footage - might have to do it now. <<< my r34 is in the avatar

I got a walbro as they fit better and I have only 200rwKW. - happy Bosh will flow more. do a search - there are heaps or thread about the flow rates. bosh flow is rated at 12 volts where walbro 255l/h is at 15v. Therefore at 15v, the bosh will flow more. Thats the gist. You will have to search for more acurate data.

wow, you did everything then. What diod you use to do the access holes? Did you just cut out some MDF and silicone in? Is that in an R32? Looks different to mine - r33. I take it you've used dynamat on the metal parts, or is it.. What's the TAC stuff? is that like brown bread?

Please excuse my thread grave-digging operation, But does anyone have more info on where you put it? I was thinking of is sticking to the inside of the outer door skin, naturally, but how much you need to cover? What about the inner chassis of the door, (the bit that you screw the door trim to) did you put anything behind or infront of it as well? Thanks for any input...

Well, I resealed it and it worked. No more headaches!! And a nice whoosh when I open the cap. I guess I will see how long it lasts.

yay! I'm back in. Thanks Prank.

sheet - I just bought some and sealed mine. What about just a jap bung? I know it's a defect, but maybe it could be a temporary solution. The cars already been complied anyway - don't need it complied again. The guy I ought the Sikaflex from said that it's wha the compliancers useually use to do it... Chriso

I have a fuel smell and counldn't find where it was coming from. Checked the fuel filter up the front and I also checked the fuel tank when I fitted a new fuel pump. All ok. I got a smell from near the fuel refiller, but the wierd thing is that I got a smell when I wound down the drivers windows when driving. The only thing I could think of is when you wind down the window, it draws air out and then sucks it in else where. Must be sucking air in from the back near the fuel filler. So anyway, I hunted around the fuel filler section, (after doing a search and found many threads on it) and couldn't find anything. After a while I noticed the reddy-brownish muck around the top of the fuel filler neck, and noticed that it was brittle. So then I grabbed the pliers and yanked out the metal neck bit and found this - check pics. Some dodgy bastard has glued it in with I've no idea what, and is almost cetainly the cause of my fuel smell. Anyway, From above, it would seem like silkaflex the best thing to go with. Is this stuff a silicon type glue, which will get me a good seal? Is it fuel proof? Will it last? Is it purpose designed? etc? Thanks Chriso

I have fitted a el o2 sensor into mine and had no issues. ('93r33) On the dyno, it runs a tad leaner, but occilates between 14.6 and 15 AFR on idle, but looks to be OK. The stochiometric point is probably a little leaner than the regular item. Your choice, should you choose to use it.

No shit.. well i learnt something. Alcohol is the the emulsifier, but between water and petrol. I'm going to do some chemistry when I get home...then burn it...

Aren't alcohol and petrol different densities? Like oil an water... You might need to get an emlusifier to combine the 2... Anyway - methonol will corrode out metal parts that it comes into contact with, over time. should be good for small busts. I think the10% petrol you can get has anticorosives and all that in it...

Have you got the phase of the speakers reversed? Try this. Fade your stereo to he back. - assuming thats where the 6x9's are at the back. Then switch the balance to one side - either left or right and if the bass gets louder, then you've wired up one of your speakers backwards somewhere. just a suggestion.

There are 3 in a light - the 2 strong ones, headlamps and hi beams are H1. The little one is a standard one, like a spade connector. Don;t know what it's called but you can get them anywhere...

My explanation:- the enigine revs up faszter than the turbo in neutral or low gears...

haha, talk about opening a can of worms... From what I hear, from reputable sources, ie. mechanics and tuners, no it wont harm your turbo, your engine will idle shite and stall though. Above 14 PSI it is recommended that you use a BOV, but even then alot of drag car buliders still dont use them.

270KW...That's still pretty good!!! I think I'd be scared at 250rwkw!!! Impressive about the bosch though. What do you think the bosch internal 040 could handle?

Hey Mate, I have one but what kinds of mods do you have? I don't think it will support any boost over stock. If your's has completely died and you're after a quick and cheap solution to get you going, then it's yours. PM me.

No problems with a walbro here... tuner advised it. My pump came with everything I needed, but I ordered it from this forum and therefore was sent with the part needed for a skyline.

It maxs out at anywhere from 170 up. A walbro or bosch 040 is a good replacment. Get one so you dont blow your engine. Walbros are easier to fit but there are dodgy chinese copies getting around and flow 190l at 12 volts. up to 255l at 15v. Bocsh will flow alot more, at higher presure, more reliable, but are trickier to fit, wont pick up fuel well on a filled below 3/4. More expensive. You can get both pumps on the forum. as well as instructions on how to fit them in the tech area. - searchy. I got a walbo - happy

What about a panel filter or pod? Go panel. You could wrap your dump in that fiberglass tape to keep the heat down in the engine bay. (unless your dump has a coating...) Much easier to put before installed... Does the AVC-R come with a valve to actuate? Or does it use the factory one... - You might need one otherwise. You may need intercooler plumbing. Sounds good, but alot of users on here say that greenline.jp is quicker than Nengun...

Some really quick suggestions. - pretty much what BHDave said but with one new one. 1, Get a new actuator. 2, use a more resrtictive intake. 3, make your wastegate hole bigger, or go external.