Sydneykid

Thanks for that Rich, I already have DBA rotors and Hawke pads, I just need the brackets and bolts. I sent Caz off a query. If anyone else wants a set let me know and we might be able to do a Group Buy price. cheers

But then you won't know what the real problem was. One thing at a time Leave the plug cover off until you are happy Then it is simple to check the coil packs if it's not the plugs cheers

In the real world, no difference Just use the RB20 wastegate actuator, it's 10 psi compared to 6 psi cheers

I always wrap my stainless exhaust manifolds, so no one knows what brand they are anyway. When someone asks, I just say it’s a good one By wrapping them I achieve less heat transfer (outwards) than a cast manifold. I know that because of the under bonnet temperatures. So I figure if there is less heat getting out, then there must be more heat staying in. Bingo, that gets rid of the cast iron versus stainless argument as far as I am concerned. No matter what stainless steel exhaust manifold I use, I always clean it up with the die grinder. Plus match it carefully to the exhaust ports. Some take a little longer than others, but I can’t say as I have spent $900 worth of my time making a “cheap” manifold as good as an “expensive” one. So the cheap manifold is always…..well…. cheaper. No matter what stainless steel exhaust manifold I use, I machine the flanges to make sure that they are perfectly flat. I have found even the “expensive” manifolds are not always flat. I mount the exhaust system the same as I have described above. If I know the car will have the exhaust manifold red hot for long periods of time, I also brace the turbine flange to the cylinder head flange. I first saw the load carrying bracing on the Gibson Skylines (refer to the pictures in the Group A Skylines thread) and thought it was a good idea. So I have copied the concept ever since. I have never had an exhaust manifold crack on one of my cars, even “cheap” manifolds. cheers PS I saw I picture in a post above of a HKS cast iron exhaust manifold that was cracked. They are very tough ,the only way I reckon you could crack one of them would be to swing a big exhaust system off it,

I had pretty much the same problem in 1 X R32GTST, 2 X R33GTS's, 1 X R34GTT and 1 X Stagea and fitting NGK copper plugs and gapping them as per the above fixed it in ALL of them. Why look for the complicated answer before trying the simple and cheap ($20) solution first. cheers

Hi Adrain, I keep telling you it's not the max power thats' the problem. It's the NOS making the axles brittle. cheers I wouldn't know, I don't have one cheers

Use all the RB26 spare stuff you have lying around. Best to drill and tap the block for the RB26 head bolts as the holes in the head are 11 mm (RB30 is 10mm) so the head would float 1/2 mm around the bolts. We are up to 650 bhp using an RB30 and a GTR box, so 475 bhp (300 rwkw) is a doddle. Use the standard RB26 injectors and push the fuel pressure 8 psi (44 psi + boost), no problems. For $150 for a crank collar, I would always run a wide flange oil pump. Stock R32GTR intercooler = no problems Use a GT3040 (1.06 turbine A/R and 0.70 compressor), keep the boost under 1 bar, the A/F ratios around 11.5, no more than 7,000 rpm and ZERO knock. It will last forever. cheers

A quick leak down test will tell you. cheers

The power steering pump rear rotor would fail cheers

1.1 mm (probably 1.2 by now due to wear of the electrodes) is a 38% larger gap than 0.8 mm. 1.1 mm is a good gap for 6 psi, you have almosty doubled that (plus a bit on cold nights). Check out the DIY section for R&R and gapping spark plugs, it's not that hard. cheers

Stock plug gap is 1.1 mm which is too large. Try 0.8 mm for boost up to 1 bar and 0.65 mm for boost over 1 bar cheers

When did you last change the spark plugs? What plugs are you using? What gap are they set to? cheers PS, turbo cars are killer on plugs, it most likely isn't the coils

Another one who ignored the first rule of buying a modified turbocharged car (import or not), get the tune checked on a dyno. Graph the torque, rwkw, A/F ratios and boost, plus have the dyno operator listen for knock. The best $100 you can spend. cheers

100% BS Internally an R32/33GTR gearbox is the same as an R33GTST gearbox, other than the take off on the output shaft for the transfer case of course. cheers

Comparison of a short shifter gear lever and a standard R33GTST gear lever. As you can see in the above comparison, all a short shifter really is just a gearstick with the pivot point moved upwards. This means that you get the same movement of the shift linkage (in the gearbox) for a shorter movement of the gear knob. That has 3 effects; 1. The gear knob moves less (back & forward and side to side) for the gear change. This is not a bad thing as your hand moves a shorter distance from the steering wheel, so you spend less time one hand steering. 2. A higher level of force is required on the gear knob (by your hand) as there is less leverage. This higher level of force can manifest itself in more feeling through your hand/fingers for the gear change. Provided you are not a weakling, there is no real down side to this. 3. If you move the gear knob at the same speed, the gear linkage moves faster, hence tries to change gear faster. This can be a problem, because the synchronisers may not be able to move at this faster speed. Hence you can get crunching as the gear tries to engage before the synchroniser has had time to align the meshing. This is an often quoted problem with short shifters, one that is easily overcome by slightly reducing the speed of movement of the gear knob. The trick with a short shifter is to know what it does and use it to your advantage. Don’t fall for the fallacy that you can change gear faster with a short shifter, because the truth is you can only ever change gear as fast as the gearbox (synchronisers) will allow. cheers

I have installed 3 SS’s in Skylines and none of them were any noisier than standard. The only time I found extra noise was when I didn’t fit the rubber boot back on completely. Once I fixed that it was back to standard noise. cheers

Rattle is not “brand” dependant. Most of the brands have “competition” multiplates that rattle and “road” multiplates that don’t. The difference is the “road” ones have bevel springs on the clutch plates and the intermediate plates, that press against the cage. This stops the clutch plates and the intermediate plates from rattling when there is no load on them. Obviously the “road” multiplates cost more as they have more components. Plus they seem to charge more than parts cost, just because they can advertise no rattling as a benefit. cheers

No vibrations in my OSG twin plate. Mine rattles when the gearbox is in neutral and there is no pressure on the pedal. As soon as I touch the clutch pedal, the pressure plate has load and the intermediate plate stops rattling. Obviously in gear and clutch up, it doesn’t rattle either as there is plenty of load on the intermediate plate. cheers

I think you should only be allowed to run if you have numbers permanently stuck on your car. So that’s all you guys out and there’s room for me. cheers

Ooooh, a Stagea with an RB30DET in it, now that will be interesting. It costs about $1,200 to properly rebuild an RB30 bottom end using the standard parts. That incudes decent bearings (ACL) rings and seals, balancing the up & down and round & round bits, decking and o'ringing the block, new water pump, cam belt etc. A crank collar for $150 is a good idea so you can run a later (wide flange) oil pump. The 4wd sump adaptor ($500) and oil pick up relocation is a full day fitting, it's a tricky time consuming job. The difficult part is knowing when to stop. There are lots of temptations, ARP rod bolts, ARP head studs, ARP main bearing studs, forged pistons, forged rods........................ooops there goes another $5K. We have done over 30 RB30's for other people and I have built 3 for myself and with each one I kept adding a few more upgrades. After all it's only $few hundred, might as well while its apart, saves pulling the engine and doing it later etc etc. Before you know it you have another $big race engine on your hands. So if I can give one tip only, set your targets ($ and BHP) and stick to them. cheers

We use the Power FC Boost Control Kit, works a charm, no ricey blue screen or other crap to clutter up the cabin. Plumb it up, plug it in and punch up the desired boost level on the Commander and away you go. cheers

The general consensus for a daily driver is no more than 12.0 to 1. As long as you have a nice reliable source of petrol and watch the knock levels. cheers

Some time ago we back to back tested Castrol FR 5W30 and 10W60 in a race engine (not an RB) on the dyno. Sure the race engine was built “loose” compared to a brand new “standard” road engine, but probably no looser than a 100,000ks’ old road engine. On the dyno there was very little difference in power output at all rpm ranges, with the 5W30 slightly ahead. But in real world conditions I don’t think you would ever notice the power or fuel consumption differences. So I have continued to use the 10W60 in my road cars (and race cars) for the temperature safety margin it gives me. cheers PS; I didn't notice any significant oil pressure differences at normal operating temperatures, the oil pressure relief valve controls that.

Too far down, up a bit where that pipe is connected to the junction. cheers

The exhaust system has to flex with the twisting on the engine on its rubber engine mounts. The question is where do you want to have that flexing occur? Personally I don’t want the flexing to be on the turbo itself, the wastegate or the manifold that they are bolted to. They are, after all, the most expensive parts of the exhaust system. So I want the flexing to occur after them. The closest point with nice easy bolts to access is the point at which the engine block bolts to the gearbox bell housing. Then I have flexible joints from that point rewards along the exhaust system. One at the gearbox cross member, one at the front of the rear subframe and the other at the rear of the muffler. This means the weight of the exhaust system is supported by that solid bracket and the other rubber mounts along the length of the exhaust pipe. It also means that the weight of the turbo and the wastegate are supported by that bracket and the manifold, sharing. Turbos and wastegates are heavy items, the bigger the turbo the more they weigh. This sharing means less weight (load) on the manifold, so it is far less likely to crack. But (there is always a but) the pipework from the turbo and the wastegate changes length (expands and contracts) with changes in temperature. This has to be allowed for when thinking about the solid bracket work. Firstly, keeping the distance between the turbo and the solid mount short is important. That means less length (of pipework) for expansion. Another reason for choosing the engine block bolts to the gearbox bell housing, they are about as close as you can get. Secondly, you need to make sure that the bracket allows the pipework to expand a little when it gets hot. The trick is to make the bracket strong in two dimensions only. What I do is make the bracket out of a flat piece of mild steel, being flat it holds the pipework up and stops it moving side to side. But it also bends slightly as the pipework slowly expands and contracts. This is the mistake a lot of people make, hence why some people erroneously say not to solid mount the exhaust anywhere. If you make the bracket solid in all 3 dimensions the expansion of the pipework will add to the possibility of cracking the manifold. But even then it is still less than the effect of half of the weight of the exhaust system hanging off the turbo. If you it properly then your manifold, turbo and wastegate will live a long crack free life. Hope that was of some help cheers