Sydneykid

Yes cheers

Run it at 355 mm centre of wheel to guard at the front and 345 mm at the rear. Use a 24 mm solid front adjustable stabiliser bar on the softest setting. A 24 mm solid rear adjustable stabiliser bar on the middle setting. The rear spring rate needed is ~250 lbs per inch (4.5 kg/mm), the front is ~400 lbs per inch (7.2 kg/mm). Set the rear subframe alignment bushes to the "all round setting". Try for 6.5 degree of positive caster on the front, with 3.5 degrees of negative camber and 2 mm of toe out each side. On the rear, 1.5 degrees of negative camber with zero toe out. Then adjust the camber for even tyre temps. If it needs more than 4 degrees negative camber on the front, then you don’t have enough bump valving in the shocks. Once you achieve even tyre temps, then you can adjust the stabiliser bare to achieve the handling balance you like. If it still understeers on corner entry, try another 2 mm of toe out on the rear. If you get mid corner understeer and the front tyre temps are even, then increase the rear ride height, 5 mm is usually enough. If it power oversteers and the rear tyres temps are even, then back off the rear bar I hole. If it still power oversteers then change the rear subframe setting to “max traction”. “Take 2 panadol and call me in the morning” cheers

PM replied to cheers

This is the process I tell people to follow so that they learn how to tune a PFC via the Commander. Most people just jump in the car and drive around trying to tune. After you have done it a few times, you can do it that way, but it isn’t the way to start off. It just gives you a headache. The first job is to do your homework. Before you go anywhere near the car. Start up an Excel spreadsheet and load in the default fuel and ignition maps They are on the Power FC faq as a copy of the relevant Datalogit screens. Also on the Power FC faq is the conversion chart for AFM voltage, RPM and their respective load points Put onto the Excel spreadsheet the AFM voltages and the RPMs next to each load point axis Once you have done that, then you can start on the car itself and take it for a drive. Log the A/F ratios and the AFM voltages and RPM’s with you wide band lambda sensor. Start off at low throttle, and watch the knock readings. Once you have a bit of data logged, then you can mark on the Excel spreadsheets the load points that need correcting. Using the AFM voltages and engine rpm on the axis to identify the load points. I start with around 10 of the common load points only. Use the Commander to adjust those load points. Then go for another drive and see what effect your changes have had, logging as you go. Stop, and make some more adjustments. After you have done this around 4 or 5 times, you will know your way around the load points and you will know how much adjustment to use to get what you want. This usually takes a couple of hours. If you have tuned a car before (using other systems) you will now be ready to tune as you go. So you can start to be a bit more adventurous with the throttle. Once you have a rough fuel map loaded then go around the load cells and trim the ones that you haven't touched. There are always cells missed in a road tuning process. I just use a bit of logic to fill the gaps in Then it's time to tune the ignition, which I do via the knock sensor. I tune for zero knock, so I advance the timing until I get a bit of knock (20 or so) then retard 1 degree at a time until the knock goes to zero. This is quit tedius at first, but fairly quickly you learn what the engine needs from an ignition point of view and you can quickly load it. As usual, sometimes you have to go back and trim the A/F ratios a little bit after you have finished the ignition timing I always follow the same process, homework ----> drive ----> stop ----> tune -----> drive When you have finished (and several times along the way) make sure you load the maps into another Workbook in the same Excel spreadsheet. That way you have a standard (default map) and your modified maps on file. You can go back to them whenever you might need to. Shit happens and it's worth the effort. Hope that is of some help Cheers

The S15 6 speed is considered a weaker box than the S13 5 speed. The S13 5 speed is considered to be about as good as an RB20DET gearbox. The S15 6 speed is a rear wheel drive box only, no provision for the 4wd transfer case. Does that answer your question? cheers

Hi Al, remove the 2 upper arms (per side), that’s 2 bolts each. Then put them in a press, 10 tonnes is usually enough, and push out the old standard rubber bushes. Then press in the new polyurethane bushes. Put the arms back in the car, stick it on the wheel aligner and set the camber. Yep, 2 hours should cover it. cheers

Having got the first bit, I will have a go at the second part. So the mapping adjustments aren’t absolute, as in; open the injector “now” close the injector “now” They are more like “open the injector 10% longer” than would be the case if all else was equal. If that’s right, then in reality all it is doing is applying a correction factor. For a lightly tuned engine (more boost, FMIC, turbo back exhaust etc) the changes are actually pretty broad based. You don’t need hundreds of load points, 20 or so does the job just fine. This is because the standard mapping is the right “shape” it just needs to be moved up and down a bit. It is one (if not THE) big advantages of an AFM sensor driven ECU. Even a high flow or mild upgrade turbo using the standard injectors is pretty much the same It’s not until you get to injectors and AFM upgrades with large turbos that the basic “shape” of the mapping gets out of line. That’s when you need lots of load points. I wouldn’t get carried away with catering for that sort of level, because the standard ECU starts to have limitations in other areas. A question (or two); 1. can you modify the top speed (180 kph) limiter this way? 2. what about rpm limiter? cheers

That's the wrong picture, the right one shows the connection further down the pipe work towards the subframe. Cheers

You need to go further back along the pipework, towards the power steering pump. cheers

OK, I think I have finally got it. I didn’t have my head around changing the standard ECU mapping on the fly via the Consult port. So it’s not a permanent change, you simply send changes to the mapping from a lap top or a palm. Which would normally have to stay plugged in all the time. So what you are making is a lap top/palm “replacement” that has the mapping changes programmed into it. Have I got it? cheers

A SITC is to ignition timing what an SAFC is to AFM voltage. The SITC sits between the CAS and the ECU. It takes the signal from the CAS and changes it (advance or retard) according to the correction factors you have dialled in (yes, it has knobs). This means the ECU still runs the igniters, the ECU can still cut the ignition and the ECU can still retard the ignition. That’s why the SITC is good for an auto, all the shift programming for gearchanges still works. The ignition timing might be a bit retarded or advanced from the standard mapping, but the shift quality is pretty much exactly the same as standard. Think of an SITC as like someone sitting under the bonnet and rotating the CAS to give you the best ignition timing. In this regard an SITC is not the same as other ignition tuners (such as EManage), that sit between the ECU and the igniters. They take the ignition signal from the ECU and change it according to the correction factors you have programmed in. The problem with that style of ignition tuners is they have to match exactly the igniters’ requirements. This is where EManages in the past have caused problems with burning out igniters. Plus they loose a little shift quality compared to the SITC. As you can see from the early pictures in this thread, the SITC (being a several year old design) has 5 knobs for adjusting the ignition timing in rpm range steps. It also has good interpolation between those 5 steps ie; it’s not really a step change in ignition timing, more of a slope. If Apexi sold a later generation SITC with laptop programmable ignition timing of multiple load points (say 40) instead of the 5 knobs (RPM) I reckon they would sell heaps. But they haven’t, so the best you can do is try and buy a used SITC when one comes up. They are in high demand and sell fast, so make sure you are ready when they come up. To answer newkleer’s question, what you need to do is have a look at the CAS signal with a cro. Take that as input, manipulate the timing of it (+ or - 25 degrees max) and then duplicate the output so that the ECU thinks it is coming direct from the CAS. Then you have to make it programmable according to RPM, 20 steps may be enough, 40 (that’s every 200 rpm) would be more than enough. Cheers PS; I have through thsi thread and updated the links since they were lost in the gallery update.

I am not a fan of bolt on hub spacers. I have seen far too many failures of the spacers themselves (cracking), the wheels (cracking) and the wheel bearings (noisy). Personally I would sell the wheels and buy something the right offset in the first place. cheers

I am now the proud owner of a set of silver DAYZ side skirts, thanks to EGA41T. So it’s off to the paint shop this weekend to be blued. cheers

Nice throw.......... The standard ECU doesn’t “run the auto”, there is a separate transmission ECU for that. What the standard ECU does is cut and/or retard the ignition on the gear change. If the standard ECU is not running the ignition how does it cut/retard it? You could use an aftermarket ECU to run the injectors, but you still can’t tune the ignition timing. So it is arguably better than an SAFC/DFA on its own. But is certainly inferior to the SAFC/SITC combination. cheers

Why did they run it untuned? cheers

Nope, for circuit work a 1.5 way is better in 99% of the cases. On overrun (no power) the diff unlocks and facilitates turning when the corner is tight enough. ie; when there is sufficient radius difference between the inside and outside wheels. In a straight line, under brakes, it still has some locking action to help prevent rear inside wheel lock up. Don't think of the .5 as "half way locked", it means it unlocks with half the loading (actually less than that). cheers

He has previously owned the worlds great gearbox muncher (WRX) so I took that into account. cheers

I have a Stagea sandwich Skyline>Stagea<Skyline cheers

The Microtech is right, the standard tacho is optimistic. cheers

Hi Jon, you have to measure the combustion chamber size. Every RB cylinder head is different and every individual cylinder is different. In my opinion 280 degree cams (particularly inlet) are too long in the duration for an RB30. Based on what I have seen on several engines, 280's don't work efficiently until 5,500 rpm, which is too high for an RB30. Unless you are aiming for 800+ bhp of course. The max duration I would use is 272 for the inlet, even 264's work great for a raod engine You might just get away with 280 on the exhaust, it depends on what you are going to use the engine for. cheers

I found 15 mm bascially impossible to drive with 400 rwhp. His engine is going to have almost twice that. cheers

Hmmmmmm……… 3 litre (not a 2.6) 400 rwkw (not 450 rwkw) 20 psi (ouch) Track work (yep) Response (tricky) Hmmmmmm……… I reckon you would just about satisfy all of those with a T04Z But you are going to need to very carefully select your compression ratio, head work, camshaft duration and lift. Then its down to tuning, tuning, tuning. cheers PS; tip, get some toluene and get that ron up, make the job a lot easier.

Sure, but the wheels are still trying to rotate at the same rate. So as soon as you turn the steering wheel there is no differential action and the car will simultaneously understeer and loose inside rear wheel traction. Unless you are drifting A LOT, go the 1.5 way cheers

Sometimes when you are talking to juveniles you have to speak in their terms Other wise they don't understand you Aren't I clever that I can lower myself down to the necessary level? Without you even suspecting? Any time you want to challenge me on anything I write, please feel free to do so But be prepared to put up or shut up I don't put anything in writing that I can't support 100% Check around Cheers

Do you drive this car on the road Sam? Well, you won't be after you fit alloy bushes cheers