Sydneykid

It’s an inlet AIR temperature sensor, not an inlet PIPE temperature sensor. By putting the sensor there he is measuring the temperature of the pipe itself, which is most certainly not the temperature of the air inside the pipe. This is why MOST dyno operators place the inlet air temperature in the inlet air steam. The best place being at the air filter inlet. That way it is measuring the actual temperature of the air going into the inlet system. Shoot Out mode is designed to give equal power readings no matter what the ambient temperature of the day is (which also affects the inlet air temperature) and the intercooler efficiency. Which is what happens in the “real world”, the power output of the car changes depending on the temperature of the inlet air and the ambient temperature. Personally I am not a big fan of inlet air temp correction, if I have a good heat shield and ambient air feed, I won’t to know how effective it is (ie; how much more power I get). I don’t want the dyno correcting for poor shielding and air feed. cheers

Huh, HPI reader (or was it Zoom). MD as usual didn't tell the whole story, I think he loves dropping a bomb then walking out. cheers

Sorta, but the connection is lower down. I will photo shop it tonight and post up the correct connection. cheers

Both worlds..............hmmmmmm Does that mean an R32GTST with RB31DET is...............hmmmmmmmm........the best of 3 worlds ? cheers

Cracks are usually a good indication of the car being too low or having too high spring rates. If it is a lower than 350 mm front and 340 mm rear, centre of wheel to guard, then that’s a good place to start. If it is higher than that, then the next is to check the spring rates, there is a sticky (above) on how to measure the dimensions of the springs so that I can tell you the rates. Sperical bearings in the strut tops can also contribute to cracking. cheers

Please leave the Brakes and Suspension stickies, otherwise I am just going to get more PM’s and I really don’t need that. cheers

Whereabouts are you located? cheers

Most times I see cracked manifolds it is because the whole weight of the exhaust system is hanging off the turbo. So many cars don’t have the solid mounting bracket at the bell housing and the flexible mount at the gearbox cross member. The weight of the entire exhaust hangs of 2 rubber mounts at the rear muffler and the turbine flange at the front. It’s any wonder that the manifold cracks, carrying the weight of the turbo itself and half the exhaust system, swinging around. If you support the weight of the turbo, the external wastegate (if it has one) and the exhaust system properly, then all the manifold has to do is hold in the exhaust gas. Which doesn’t require huge thicknesses of stainless steel. If you are concerned with a thin (ish) walled stainless manifold, spend $50 and get a couple of supports welded on from the turbine/manifold flange to the manifold/cylinder head flange. That will stop any flexing in the pipework itself. cheers

The 296 to 340 is not urgent. One of the 280 to 324 is urgent though, 2 weeks is OK. If you want to email me the CAD drawing, I can ask our race team machinist to quote on making them asa price comparison. cheers

265 rwkw with Tomei Poncams on an R34GTST 275 rwkw on an R33GTST with the slightly larger VG30 turbine cover (maybe worth 10 rwkw extra) cheers

I would like to make this the ONLY thread on KKR turbos, it seems to have the most info. 1. 2rismos car is NOS ‘d for its 265 rwkw, please remember that at all times when comparing results with a car that achieves its 265 rwkw without NOS 2. Max power at one rpm point does not determine the ¼ mile time, it’s the average power over the rpm range used during the ¼ mile run that determines the ET. The ¼ simulators assume a mid point average power (not laggy not responsive) for the max power input. 3. Hence a car with a peaky 265 rwkw will be slower over the ¼ mile than a car with a broad power band 265 rwkw, simply because it has the lowest average power. It may also be more difficult to get off the line (launch) and hold on boost during gear changes. So the differences in ET can be quite marked. 4. The KKR turbos I have seen are plain bearing not ball bearing 5. The KKR turbos I have seen have no water cooling, they use oil for both lubrication and cooling. This puts a great deal more stress on the engine oil than when using a water cooled ball bearing turbo (standard or otherwise). So be aware of the need to change the oil more frequently and cool the turbo down after any heavy use. 6. The KKR turbos I have seen are not bolt on to RB20/25’s and do not come with all of the necessary items to make them fit (ie; gaskets etc). You will have to buy extra bits, you will have to modify bits, you will spend more money on parts and fitting than the basic purchase price of the turbo itself. 7. Positive articles on KKR turbos in HPI, Zoom or any other Express Publications magazine should be treated with suspicion. Otomoto have a self benefit interest in promoting their own products. Similarly HR suspension (coil overs) and the other items sold by Otomoto. That’s enough from me. cheers

PM sent instead. cheers

Are you at work today? cheers

You shouldn’t confuse what happens on the road (in the 2nd or 3rd compared to 4th) with what happens on the dyno. On the road the car accelerates so fast (or wheelspins so much) that it doesn’t have time to build up the load to produce the exhaust to spin up the turbine. This is not the case on the dyno, where the operator can vary the load (on the rollers) to slow up the rpm increase and give the engine time to build up the load to produce the exhaust to spin up the turbine. So when talking gear comparisons on dynos you can ignore load as a factor of difference. cheers

This subject has been discussed so many times in so many threads. I am not going to tell the whole story again, if you want more than this post do a post search, "Sydneykid" and "refinery". Oil companies have a policy called "refinery sharing/exchange" because it is simply not economical for each oil company to have a fully equiped refinery in each state. Refineries need volume to make money, it's that simple. Do a Google search on "oil refinery sharing", you will find ALL oil companies in Australia refinery share. For example, there is NO BP REFINERY IN MELBOURNE, so do you think they ship it in, millions of litres per week in tankers from WA or Qld? Like hell, they refinery share and buy (swap) the fuel from a local refinery. If you want to know what refineries are in Melbourne (don't forget Geelong) look it up in your yellow pages. When you buy fuel at a BP servo, chances are you will be pumping fuel from one of those refineries not a BP refinery. A quote from the BP Australia web site tell it all.... "A particular feature of the Australian oil industry is the practice of refinery exchange, in which refining companies exchange products in various locations to minimise distribution costs. For example, BP supplies other companies in Perth and Brisbane and in return is supplied with product in Melbourne, Sydney and Tasmania." cheers

There was someone on SAU getting front calliper extension brackets made up for Skylines. I have tried every search combination I can think of and I can’t find the thread. I have an urgent need for a couple of sets. So if anyone remembers who it was or where the thread was located please let me know. cheers

Have a look at the Group Buy thread; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 then if you have any questions please just ask. cheers PS stay away from Kings Super Lows, as many guys have found out, they are not a good choice.

Too hard to guess. My best suggestion is to pull it apart and have a look. Then you will know for sure. Metal head gaskets can be reused. cheers

Since we have both an R32GTST and an R33GTST, I feel that I can offer up the differences that I have found on the way. Plenty of R33’s to look at, all sorts of price ranges and conditions, standard, lightly modified, highly modified. Not the case with R32’s, not so many around, only 2 styles hardly modified and heavily modified. The R33GTST has the RB25DET engine and gearbox. That means no need for swaps, having a tail shaft made etc, it’s all there already. R33GTST Power FC, too easy, $960 done, no searching found it in a day. The RB20DET Power FC took me 4 months to find for 50% more cost R33GTST intercooler kit with 120 degree pipework at the throttle body. Too easy, no searching, found it in a day. I couldn’t find an intercooler kit anywhere for the R32GTST with 120 degree pipework at the throttle body, I had to make one myself. Wheels, 17 X 9’s on the R33GTST no problems, no rolling, no flaring, just bolt them on. Busted steering column lock for the R33, no problems finding a good one. But it was really hard for the R32, plenty around but they were crap. Similar experiences with all used parts, R32 stuff is getting old. The aircon, heater etc works much better in the R33 than the R32. The seats are much better in the R33 than the R32. The R32 is certainly lighter (1265 kgs versus 1345 kgs) To my eyes the R32 looks better, but that’s subjective. So when I added it all up, the R33GTST won the day over another R32GTST, it wasn’t that hard a decision in the end. Cheers

10 litres plus, I can squeeze 80 k's after the light comes on. cheers

Bankstown is about as close as it gets, quick trip up the M5, Fairford Rd exit; Exceller Steering Exceller Ave Bankstown 9790 1745 talk to Bruce

Black crud is normally caused by excessively rich running, get the car tuned properly and it usually goes away. Other causes are letting the car idle to warm it up in the morning, sitting still in the garage or driveway. Also too large an exhaust pipe outlet, meaning the exhaust has no velocity at idle and, being hot, it climbs up the bumper. cheers

When you have semi wet road, dry patches, you can get tyre sidewall flex and release due to the changing traction. Raising the tyre pressures usually stops that. cheers

Sorry I don’t have time to work on my own cars, let alone others. The recommended fitters are in the first post of each Group Buy thread. cheers

Sounds like axle tramp to me. Time for new shocks and check the subframe bushes. cheers