Sydneykid

Most people agree that a softer rear end assists squat and weight transfer But the problem with R32/33/34's is excessive camber change on squat. So to avoid camber change you use hard springs But that's band aid (covering up the real problem) Why don't you eliminate the camber change? Then you can take advantage of the squat, weight transfer. Forget I told you that, just keep on doing what you are doing, you are already going fast enough. cheers

Whiteline camber kits on the Group Buy as follows; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Excessive negative camber is directly related to height. This is what is usually needed for each height increment, note that all measurements are centre of wheel to guard; Standard (new) height is 380 mm front and 370 mm rear 360/350 mm needs only the standard rear camber adjusters 350/340 mm needs 1 front camber kit and 1 rear camber kit 340/330 mm needs I front camber kit and 2 rear camber kits Note that 350/340 is the best height for handling and ride comfort cheers

Hi Aaron, if BB doesn't need it, I will take it. I need to replace a gauge panel and a POD heat shield cover so 1mm would be perfect. What are the dimensions? cheers

Do me a favour and delete all references to boost cut, there is no such thing, The standard R33GTST ECU doesn’t even know what the boost is. It is excessive airflow as noted by the AFM which sends the ECU in to rich and retard mapping. Call it "R&R Mapping" for short. I love the way the turbo runs out of airflow and can’t hold the set boost level. I noticed that you have used the standard RB30 conrods (did you also use the standard RB30 rod bolts?). If so, I wouldn’t be going much over 300 rwkw (400 rwhp). cheers

I would actually go for the Power FC since you need to adjust the ignition timing for the lower ron fuel. The SAFC will cause you no end of grief as it will advance the ignition timing when you are reducing the AFM voltage (that the ECU sees) to lean out the A/F ratios. The Aim table is the lambda (A/F ratio) that the ECU targets when running closed loop. On a Power FC it is programmable. Closed loop running is when the ECU uses the standard (slow and narrow) lambda sensor to tell it what fuel to inject to achieve the targeted (via the aim table) lambda (A/F ratio). This is for fuel economy and emissions at idle and cruise, when things happen slowly and predictably. Yep, toluene costs more than avgas, but at 122 ron you don’t have to use as much to lift the total tank ron to 98. It used to cost us an extra $12.00 a tank to go from 92 ron to 100 ron, so not a big deal really. cheers

We do flat topped pistons and keep the standard squish zones with 9 to 1 compression ratio with a 0.8 mm head gasket. cheers

I use them, works a charm. Not necessary for your power target though. cheers

Juts like brake lines, removing the steel pipework makes no difference as it doesn't expand under pressure. Only replacing the rubber hose makes a difference. cheers

The rear toe is pretty much zero, so that’s OK. But the rear camber (as usual for a lowered Skyline) is terrible. It needs to be zero at the very least and if possible 0.25 degrees positive. It looks like they have used the standard adjusters to remove as much as they allow (1.35 to 1.1). My suggestion would be to fit 2 rear camber kits ($123 X 2), that will give you more than enough adjustment. I would also move the rear subframe alignment bushes to the maximum traction position. cheers

I have one, they are a good thing at a good price. cheers

Yep, it's a ball bearing core. I believe that it's a Garrett core made for GCG with exactly the same fitting requirements as the standard turbo. It is a true bolt off / bolt on swap. cheers

PM sent cheers

Let’s talk specifics; 1. What is your power target? 2. What do you use the car for? Road, circuit, drag? 3. What other tings are important to you? Reliability, fuel economy, resale value, cost, response? 4. What is your budget? cheers

The reason why you have been getting mixed responses is because you haven’t fully thought through what it is exactly that you are trying to achieve. The fact is you have already “boosted” it, by removing the restrictions in the exhaust you have increased the airflow. The turbo is flowing more air, hence it is working harder and revving higher. So if you are intent on not “boosting” in an attempt to avoid turbo wear, you have already failed in that regard. Secondly, in a turbo charged engine, the real advantage is you can easily, quickly and cheaply increase the power output by increasing the airflow though the engine. Reducing restrictions (as you have already done) is one of those items, increasing the boost to a “safe” level is another, the third is improving the tune for power productivity. By increasing the airflow you have already put the standard ECU outside its operating parameters. It is currently running rather rich and somewhat retarded in its ignition timing. Any further mods will simply exacerbate that poor state of tune. So, my best suggestion is to think carefully about what it is you want to achieve, set a power target and determine what uses you are going to put the car. If you enunciate those things then you will find that you get solid and consistent responses. cheers

A quick explanation on “boost cut” and R34’s / Stagea S2’s; 1 The ECU cuts NOTHING, fuel still flows and the ignition still fires, so calling it a “CUT” is 100% wrong. 2. The R34/S2 ECU is a bit smarter than the previous versions, but like them, it still has Rich and Retard mapping that it reverts to when it detects something amiss. For example if the throttle position and the rpm don’t agree with the AFM voltage the ECU hops into R&R mapping. 3. The ECU doesn’t care about boost. If you fit an SAFC/DFA (or equivalent) you don’t get R&R mapping. If the ECU cared about boost then fitting an AFM voltage bender wouldn’t work 4. Combining #2 and #3 above, you use an AFM voltage bender to realign the AFM voltage with the throttle and rpm. So the ECU thinks that all is well and doesn’t get into R&R mapping. I hope that clears up the fallacy of boost cut and Skylines/Stageas. cheers

Quite a few guys recently have asked me about this thread via PM. So I figured it was time to bump it up the list a bit. cheers

Running 91 ron really kills the performance. Maybe try some toluene, it works well, slip about 23% in with the fuel , that’s 15 litres in with 50 litre of 91 ron petrol in a 65 litre tank. Toluene is 122 ron, so that mix ratio will get you a bit over 98 ron. You should be able to buy toluene in PNG, a 160 or 200 litre drum would be the go. Then decant it into a 20 litre drum for filling at the servo when get petrol. Don’t spill it on the paintwork, toluene is paint stripper. Try this thread for some useful tips; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...3059&hl=Toluene Some random thoughts; 1. The A/F ratios are a fair bit rich at around 10.5 to 1, what tuning have you done so far? 2. What ECU does it have? 3. The cruise A/F is usually closer to 15 to 1, not the 14’s you are seeing, have you adjusted the aim table? 4. Actually, are you running closed loop for idle and cruise? Cheers

I drove from Sydney to Melbourne on a space saver, no problem. I don't understand the paranoia cheers

We have lodged an expression of interest for 4 cars to run in the proposed 12 hour race. Having done so in the previous 12 hours in 1993 and 1994. Cheers

I am not a fan of using spherical bearings on road cars, they wear fast, knock like a bustard and are generally not replaceable (you have to buy a whole new arm). In my opinion the Group Buy bushes from Whiteline are a better solution for a road car. cheers

The order I would go from here; 1. Heat shield and ambient air feed, exposed pod is wasting power, big time 2. ECU, Power FC with Boost Control Kit 3. High flow cat 4. High flow turbo 5. Adjustable camshaft pulleys Then see how the power is, properly tuned, maybe you won't need cams. If you do, then choose any brand that you can find for an RB20DET, unlike the RB25 there is no one brand that stands out. Around 264 degrees duration with under 9 mm lift so you don't have to spend heaps on valve springs and fitting. The camshaft pulleys (unlike an RB25 with Tomei Poncams) are definitely beneficial. Even if you find zero degrees is the best, you can always sell them, they don't depreciate much in value. cheers PS, regardless, you can't put cams in without an ECU to tune.

Shop fronts = big margins (to pay the rent) = retail prices cheers

The issue here is the drag racing guys don't really care, the run is too short for it to be an issue. If they have huge power, they concrete or expoxy fill the block, which changes the fluid flow dramatically. Only the ciruit racing guys really experience temperature differential over time. We don't go much over 650 bhp as the additional lag at that power level makes the car slower. Hence we don't see large temperature differences, it is only on the engine dyno that I have been able to measure it with any accuracy. One day I will stick a temp probe under each spark plug washer (like we do on the karts) and measure it during a race. But it honestly, so far has not been an issue for us, so it's not high on the priority list. cheers

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...21344&hl=Gibson Try searching Sydneykid and Gibson Cheers

Try the Group Buy http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 cheers