Sydneykid

Spacers aren't the answer, skinny front wheels hanging out side the rear track looks almost as bad. A better answer is 10.5" wide wheels with 0 offset, making them 21 mm further out and 17 mm further in. That will give a barely discernable increase in tramlining. You will need to do a little inner guard tweaking, nothing major. Obviously that's all round, so will need to match the rear guards with the front. cheers

I would add; track preparation altitude weather regulations etc glad to see you left in the only thing that really matters, M...O...N...E...Y In fact, why do they bother having drag races at all. They should just get all of the team owners together and weigh their wallets on the 1st January each year. The heaviest wallet wins the championship for that year. Save all the crapping around. cheers

1. sit down right now and write out exactly what happened 2. have your brother do the same 3. get a lawyer, there are specialists in road traffic law 4. use the lawyer to lodge a complaint about her attitude with her superior. Make sure it includes incorrect procedure and process and false accusations 5. through the lawyer ask for copies of the pictures she took. If she didn't take any pictures, you are home free. 6. change what you need to, engineers are in the yellow pages 7. take pictures of the car how it is now and after the changes 8. don’t pay the fines, tick the I want to go to court box 9. if it doesn’t have a defect sticker on it you can drive it 10. you can drive it until the court date, probably early next year 11. the first court appearance is just a formality, not guilty, come back in 3 to 4 months. Indicate through your lawyer that you will be seeking damages, loss of income, cost of lawyer, cost of engineers report (saying nothing is wrong), cost of engineer to come to court, pain and suffering etc. 12. second court appearance leave it to the lawyer if he/she is any good they will win easily. cheers

I have plenty of numbers. but I am hardly going to share them so that our competition can work out why we are 2 seconds a lap faster than them. cheers

How did you stop the brake fluid and clutch fluid from boiling with a high mount turbo in a 30 minute race ? cheers PS; we raced Supras for 3 years, I have a fair idea of their limitatiions. RB26’s won almost every touring car race in the world for 4 years. The only thing that stopped them was rule changes. Compared to JZ’s which have won ……..let me see ….…nothing.

It's not just the turbo, it's camshaft selection, porting, compression ratio, manifold and tuning, tuning, tuning. But 0.63 is too small for the power target, so 0.8'ish is the go. cheers

The problem with JZ's is the turbo is on the wrong side. cheers

I should also add that watching the standard lambda sensor output will drive you crazy. Evertime you lift off the throttle (even a tiny bit) it will show lean and you will worry abouit you engine. Evertime you touch the throttle (even a tiny bit) it will show rich and you will worry about fuel economy. When coasting (throttle off) it will show SUPER LEAN and you will pull over in fear of killing it. You will be paranoid in a week, because everything above is 100% normal. A standard lambda sensor display tells you nothing, except that you car is running in closed loop sometimes. cheers PSl; you have no idea how many PM's I get from guys (with standard lambda sensor read outs) in a total panic from the above.

It's not the professional thief you should be worried about, it's the joy rider. If a professional wants your car then he will get it. But they are less than 20% of the cars stolen, the other 80% is joy riders or amatures with a drug habit to feed. Stagea has frameless windows, so 5 secs with screwdriver and they are in. One hit on the steering wheel and the alloy steering lock is broken and then join 3 wires from the turbo timer and they are gone. If they have to search for wires, it's harder, especailly on a non common car where they don't know the wiring colours. The good old TT puts all the necessary wires right there in front of them. Snip, snip, twist, see you later. I wouldn't put a TT in the glovebox because I can't reach it from the drivers seat. I find it very annoying and perhaps dangerous to have to lean accross the car to turn off the ignition. That's the other problem I find with TT's is the damn engine won't turn off instantly when I want it to. I have to keep overriding the TT and that slows down the process considerably. Think about it, say I am checking the ignition timing, turn off the engine though the drivers side window and then wait 10 seconds until the TT shuts down. It slows down the process something terrible, plus when I am testing cold settings the last thing I want is 10 more seconds of warming up. I am only ever SarKastic (I like that) when I am talking about something I hate, TT's are near the top of the list. Just under the falacy of "boost cut". cheers

Does that front bumper actually have any holes in it? cheers

This moves the tyre contact patch outwards 30 mm, which means; Tramlining, pretty bad I would say Premature wheel bearing wear Heavy steering Hence steering linkage wear And steering rack wear Premature tyre wear Increased loading on the radius rods due to the increased leverage Leading to increase radius rod bush wear Or if you have spherical bearings with adjustable radius rods, perhaps bearing failure Premature wear of the upper inner and outer conrol arm bushes Premature wear of the lower inner control arm bush Premature wear of the lower outer ball joint That's about it for a start. cheers PS; with the power output your engine is going to have, the tramlining will be extreme

They are good in a straight line, but not designed for going around corners. cheers

Sorry, I have no straight forward answers, I did a lot of the early RB stuff on other people’s cars. So I didn’t have the opportunity of finding out the whole story in some cases. On my R32GTST I have a genuine RB20DET Power FC that I bought second hand from NZ around 4 years ago. So there is no doubt it is an “old” one. I have used a Boost Control Kit with it from about a year after I got the PFC. The map sensor plugged (3 pins) into the side of the PFC and I used the boost control solenoid pin outs (as per the RB26 ECU pin out diagram) to power the BKC solenoid. At the time I did this, I was told that the RB20 PFC (R32GTST) was just an RB26 PFC (R32GTR) with a few changes. Since the BKC worked when plugged into the RB26 pin outs I had no doubt at the time that this was true. Moving on to the Inlet Air Temp sensor, I got an RB26 inlet air temp sensor working on someone else’s R32GTST fitted with a PFC. I simply ran the wires from the sensor to the ECU, copying the water temp sensor wiring logic (positive supply and negative sensor output). Which I think is where Paul had problems as it seems he got the polarity wrong (confused the + and –) and fried his PFC. The problem is I don’t know if it had an RB20 or an RB26 PFC. I always assumed that it had an RB20 PFC (same as mine) but I can’t guarantee that was the case. The car was stolen and recovered some time later with no PFC (and several other things missing) so I can’t go back and check it. There is another complication, I knew nothing about Datalogit (maybe it wasn’t even available) when this car was tuned. A guy from NZ tuned it using “some software” on a laptop. Looking back I suspect that it was Power Excel as the screens were nothing like Datalogit. Maybe it was an early version of Datalogit, I don’t know. I have yet to do the Inlet Air Temp sensor connection on my own R32GTST, it won’t be that hard as the RB26 plenum (on the RB31DET) has a working sensor in it. Once I have done that I will know for sure whether it works using a guaranteed RB20DET PFC. cheers

As Caz has pointed out, the price of the calliper adaptors is in the cost of the high quality material used and the parts supplied. So they are not really a Group Buy prospect, hence I have ordered a set direct from Caz. If you are interested I strongly suggest you do the same. Once I have them, I will post up a how to fit guide. I will be using DBA 5000 series rotors and Hawk pads. cheers

I use air filter medium at the front of the ducting, works a charm. Just take it out occasionally shake off the crap and stick them back in. cheers

I have read all the books and checked out every race car I can get my head under for 30 years. I know the theory says feed the ambient air into the centre of the rotor so it flows evenly out though the vanes. But the fact is less than 10% of the race I have seen actually do that. Because of the shit that is in the way that stops you from getting anywhere near the centre of the rotor with any decent sized ducting. So they simply point the ducting at the inside of the rotor in the most accessible place. As you can see from the following picture, that is precisely what the Gibson guys did on the rear of the R32GTR Group A car. My rule is, if it’s good enough for Fred, it’s most likely going to be good enough for me. cheers

I have explained this to many would be drifters, a handfull believed me and tried the stabiliser bars and were amazed at the results. They could actually back off the rear bar (while changing from the bald rear tyres) and drive their car home normally, without instantaneous sideways action, even in the rain. The Jap’s invented drifting (and good on ‘em) but they have no history of stabiliser bar upgrades. So they went for rock hard springs and shocks, something that they are all too familiar with. The drifters here are justly slavishly following their lead (who can blaim them). Except the ones with circuit racing experience, they know the advantages of tuning the handling balance with adjustable stabiliser bars. Honestly I really don’t care if you buy some stabiliser bars or not. I don’t make any money from selling stuff. I am only telling you because it is technically the best solution and it fits into your budget. cheers

Well, I am sure he won't mind if you sell it and buy an EGT gauge instead. Especially when you tell him I said so I hope you cool down the brakes on the 30 after a good thrashing. It's not really a high low tech thing, more a good, sensible, mechanical sympathy question. cheers

Responses follow; 1. Who cares about a 7,500 rpm rpm limit when you have 750 bhp at 6,500 rpm and 1 bar of boost at 3,500 rpm. I only rev an engine to make more power (before and after the gearchange) and 750 bhp is plenty with a 3,000 rpm wide power band. 2. The max rpm depends on how you balance it, I am sure the rods would be OK to 8,000 rpm. But if I used that sort of rpm I would be well over 800 bhp which would exceed the BHP limit anyway. I really don’t think that it is important. 3. No failures so far 4. Yep cheers

I do a 2 minute lap of the block at 50 kph (the speed limit), the moving airflow helps cool everything down better than idling for 5 minutes stationary in the driveway ever will. If you want to be super sure, instead of wasting your money on a turbo timer (TT), it would be smarter to buy an Exhaust Gas Temperature (EGT) Gauge. Then you know when it’s OK to stop doing block lappies. Plus you also get to monitor the ceramic turbine failing temperature. That’s make 2 uses for an EGT gauge compared to NONE for a TT (unless you’re a car thief of course). cheers

Sway bars = stabiliser bars = antiroll bars Adjustable stabiliser bars are $219 each on the Group Buy You budget was $800. No spring and shock combo that you buy for $800 is going to be remotely suitable for your purpose. So $438 spent on stabiliser bars will give a much better result. Get out there and have a go you will be surprised at how much difference they make. Plus you have $362 (out of your $800) saved, which is a good start on your way to affording some decent springs and shocks. If you spend $800 on springs and shocks now, you will only throw them away very soon, once you find out how crappy they are. Big waste of $800. The stabiliser bars you will use forever. cheers

Turbo Timer…..YUK What do you want one of those for? They are just an easy place for someone to steal your car. Ooooo, I have to cool the turbo down after I thrash it. Yeh, but what about the gearbox, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a gearbox timer What about the diff, didn’t you thrash it at the same time? Oooooo, better buy a diff timer If you were really driving fast enough to heat up the turbo then you probably used the brakes it to stop in the driveway. Oooooo, better buy a brake timer Surely it makes more sense to do a lap of the block to cool the whole lot down. Not just the turbo, idling in the driveway. As for the A/F ratios, it uses the standard (slow and narrow lambda sensor) so that’s an even bigger waste of time (and money). cheers

Use what springs and shocks you already have and throw some big (adjustable) stabiliser bars on it. Under $500, stabiliser bars are always the best value for money handling upgrade. Plus you can adjust the handling balance easily while you have it jacked up to change the tyres. Try that with springs. cheers

I don't worry about primary pipe expansion, they aren't very long so their actual expanaion is very small. They are also not straight, some expanion is upwards not outwards. Plus I have a solid bar from the turbo flange to the cylinder head flange, so they can only expand outwards as much as the solid bar does and its only 60 mm long. A 3% expansion is only 1.8 mm. There is a far greater expansion potential for the turbine and wastegate exhaust as they are much longer, that's why I use a flat (2 dimensional) bracket there. cheers

The 4wd sump adaptor is 6mm steel. Moves the sump down, not the block up. So, no effect on the water pump location relative to the radiator. cheers