Sydneykid

Skylines come standard with coil overs, the coil spring goes around the shock. cheers

Just the normal ECU rich and retard strategy when you increase the boost, have a read of the DFA and IEBC thread. cheers

My experience has been that 100+ kph vibration is ALWAYS balance. The first thing I do is swap the front and rear wheels. If the vibration moves from front to rear or changes in frequency then its wheel balance. A lot of tyre shops just balance the wheels on the inside. Skylines (4wd's in particular) need the wheels balanced both inside and out because of the wheel width. Check and make sure yours has weights on both the inside and the outside of the rim. If it doesn't then I would suggest going back to the tyre shop and asking them to check the inner and outer balance. cheers

Hi Ian, there is no MAP sensor on my Stagea S1, the ECU has no way of knowing the boost level. I will be very interested in having a look at your Consult software when it is available. cheers

Air bag steering wheel, very illegal to remove. Also rather dangerous, I have seen 2 guys with broken arms and 1 with a broken jaw from trying to remove airbag steering wheels. The seat goes up & down and backwards & forwards and the back rest tilts, plus the steering wheel adjusts. I have had all sizes of people drive mine from 6'11" to 5' 0" and no one has found a problem finding a driving position. Have a play around, you might find you can adjust out the problem. cheers

You could use any ECU to control the fuel and use the standard ECU to control the ignition (for cut/retard on gearchanges). The control of ignition timing must at all times remain with the ECU that has the shift logic programming (ie; the standard ECU). That solution would be hardly any better than a piggy back solution like an SAFC or a DFA. It would certainly be inferior to SAFC + SITC or EManage (if it is finally bug free) or Exede (when the development is finished). cheers PS, quick clarification, the (engine) ECU has absolutely nothing to do with the actual changing of gears. That is handled by the (transmission) ECU.

Print out the prices from J-Spec and some other importers and take it along top the dealer. Show him that you can easily buy one for $7,000 less than he wants. If he pulls the no warranty on imports crap, tell him you can buy warranty insurance for $600. I am sure he will pull out the "with an import you don't know what you are getting" + "this one you can see and drive before you buy" rubbish. In which case you tell him the cars are inspected before they leave and you get a full report for $200. Throw him the "at least I know that it hasn't been tarted up to look good and cover up any problems". Throw the "100K service costs a bomb" line at him, and demand that the service be done for free before you will discuss anything further. Get it out of the way quick, agreed and move on. Otherwise he will use it later as a deal sealer. Close with "I am willing to pay a BIT more because I can have the car now, but $7,000 is rediculous". Then let him sharpen his pencil, I reckon around $21K is an OK price. Hope that was of some help cheers

"Freight is a killer" because I priced bringing the side skirts in myself , it is much cheaper as a bulk buy/shipment. Selling container space is quite common, happens thousands of times everyday. You don't pay for the freight twice, the only extra you pay is for the profit margin of the guy buying the space. I don't want to buy the stuff myself, it's too damn hard. I want to tell someone what I want, where to get it, how much it costs and where I want it delivered to. They can do the rest, the actual buying, the freight, customs clearance, import duty, GST etc. I don't mind paying them for their services, that's only fair. Is that what Aaron is offering? Or does he just arrange containers so that I have stuff I have bought stuck in them? cheers

We didn't cut one up, since it was an N/A diesel (not a turbo) the concensus was it wouldn't have much extra meat. Plus the water jacket isn't overly large anyway. so not a lot of room to move. cheers

Once again the ECU and Auto gearbox ECU questions get totally off the plot. Search all you like, there is no full ECU replacement for auto Skylines. The current situation, as I see it, is you have 4 choices; 1. Suffer harsh gearchanges and reduced gearbox life and use any ECU you like. They are all the same as far as the gearbox is concerned. None of them have the gearshift logic programming for cutting/retarding the ignition timing on gearchanges. Saying that Microtech or Link or Power FC or anyother ECU is better for autos is absolute crap, NONE of them have the programming. 2. Use piggy backs, SAFC, SITC, EManage (there is a claim that EManage now works with Skyline ignition, but it is early days yet) or Exede (still under development). They all retain the standard ECU and therefore its program for gearshift logic ignition retard. What's the limit as far as amx power is concerned? I don't know, I haven't seen anyone reach 300 rwkw with piggy backs yet, there are a few around 250 rwkw though. 3. Change the gearbox to manual and use whatever ECU you like. 4. Change to a stronger auto, you will still have harsh changes and the life of the gearbox will be less (than it would with ECU programing for gearshift). Or upgrade the components in the standard gearbox, so they last a bit longer. Or use a manual shift controller, so you decide when the gearchanges are going to occur (you can take your foot off the throttle on the gearchange). This is not going to change as far as I can see (so don't search again tomorrow for a magic solution) because no one is going to spend the money developing the programming for an aftermarket ECU for Nissan autos. It would simply cost far too much and be unsaleable (no one would pay the price). This has been the case since 1989 so why would it change now? cheers PS; Yes, there are Power FC's for auto Toyotas but they have comletely different logic in their gearshift and ECU. This means no complex programming is required (like a Nissan).

I have been talking to Zac (Slidewize Imports) about Stagea body kits. The big killer is freight, they are bulky (not heavy) and so freight is expensive. I want to get a MASA front grill and a pair of genuine DAYZ side skirts to match my DAYZ front bumper and rear spoiler. What Zac has suggested is if we Stagea owners get together and buy a few body kits that can be shipped all at once. For example he reckons 3 or 4 sets of side skirts won't cost much more than 1 set to ship. Bonnets would be similar, as well as rear spoilers, front guards. Not necessarily the same body kits, can be from different suppliers. Zac will buy and consolidate them and then do one shipment. They don't even have to be new parts, there have been quite few on Yahoo recently. So what's the level of interest? Maybe copy and fill in the table, that will make it easier to consolidate; Supplier - Part - Cost in Yen - Web Site Link - cheeers PS; here is mine; Supplier - MASA Part - Stagea WGCN34 S1 Grill Cost in Yen - 31,290 Web Site Link -http://www.masamotorsports.com/ Supplier - DAYZ Part - Stagea WGCN34 S1 Blue side Steps Cost in Yen - Web Site Link - Anbody have a link to the DAYZ web site?

We had a good long look at one of these about 5 years ago, there were some reasons it got rejected as a possibility..........mmmmm........they don't have block mounted oil squirters.........the crank has no provision for cam belt drive maybe......or was it oil pump drive.......hamonic balancer perhaps, not sure about main bearing cradle. There isn't any foreseeable advantage over an RB30, the stroke was shorter (83 mm versus 85 mm) and the crank tested up much the same for hardness, same size bearings etc. I think there is still one kicking around ther machine shop somewhere, I could always dig it out and refresh my memory. cheers

The subframe is most likely twisting, as it has 3 working mounts and 1 not working. It is quite common to simply fit the alignment bushes, they sandwhich in between the standard bush and the mounting bracket. So they become the limiter in travel, taking the load off the standard bushes. Whiteline are back on the 4th January, so delivery on the 5th is possible. cheers

Yep, I thought of one of those, even test drove a couple (the local BMW dealer owes me). But they don't tow 2 tonnes, don't have waggon S-P-A-C-E and aren't 4wd. cheers

Hi Lee, stuck open wastegate actuator......hmmm......unlikely. Easy to check, give it a push with your finger. Or grab the vacuum pipe to the wastegate actuator and give it a blow, you can see the wastegate actuator lever move. You should also check the bleed valve the same way (give it the blow through test). Make sure it is bypasing some airflow as you adjust it. cheers

Honestly, I am quite happy with my RSFOUR, it will be plenty fast enough with 200 4wkw and the auto is a big advantage for city work and towing the race car. At an all up cost of $25K ($16K plus $9k worth of mods) I can't think of anything else that would do the job as well. cheers

Most people don't bother changing the subframe bushes, you have to remove the entire rear subframe/suspension/diff to do it. The most common fix is to clean the silicone fluid away and fit a Whiteline rear subframe alignment kit (pineapples). These fit over the standard bushes and don't need the subframe to be removed. About 30 mnutes to fit, following are some pictures of a Stagea rear end (basicaly the same) wiht numbers that line up with the WHitleine instructions; Subframe alignemnt kits are available on the the Group Buy for $110 delivered; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85591 Hope that was of some help cheers

So I can spend $43K on a 260RS.............easy $35K on the RS itself (I have seen 2 recently plus jakes) $1.5K suspension (shocks, bars alignment...standard springs are OK) $1.6K on a N1 steel wheel upgrade for the turbos $1K on a GT Power FC $1.5K on the exhaust, split dumps, hi flow cat $1K on brake pads and rotors $150 Nismo adjustable fuel presure regulator $400 Bosch 044 $800 Clutch $400 Adj camshaft pulleys Total $43,350 It will make around 290 rwkw, running higher fuel pressure via the AFPR will stretch the standard injectors that far. It will have good throttle response (6 versus 1 throtttle body) and fast boost build (N1 spec turbos are not that large). It will achieve more power at lower boost ( than the RB25) due to its less restrictive (standard) cylinder head. Solid cam followers (not hydraulic) so it will rev better. Slightly more agressive (RB26 versus RB25) cam timing and higher lift. The RB26 obviously also has better rods, crank, water pump, oil pump, head bolts etc etc There is enough work in fitting the parts (suspension, brakes, turbos, exhaust, Power FC, AFPR, clutch, fuel pump) and tuning (engine and suspension) to make me feel that I have invested my own personality into making it MINE. And if its not fast enough (unlikely with 290 rwkw) it is only a turbo (to 2530's) and injector (to 600 cc's) upgrade to get to 350 rwkw. The N1 spec turbos, AFPR and the standard injectors are easily sold to give a net cost of $2500 for the extra 60 rwkw. cheers

Relax Ben, spring steel is designed to be compressed and return to its original shape. cheers

Give Marco a call at Top Performance (the Vic Koni agents) and talk to him about Skylines and Konis. cheers

Check out the Group Buy thread on R34GTT, I think it answers your questions. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=88141 cheers

Hi Dave, sounds like a rear subframe bush, one of the bushes marked with a green dot on the following picture; cheers

Did you check that the pistons moved before you put the callipers on the car? If not, check it before you go any further, just leave the brake hoses connected. cheers PS; sticking used 10 + years old callipers on a car without having them serviced is asking for trouble.

Simple, any fool (even me) can tune using thge DFA. An exeprienced tuner would do it in his sleep. If he hasn't seen a DFA before (unlikely as there are plenty around) explain to him how it works, the load points etc. That will save him a few minutes (and you some money) working out what the buttons do. cheers

Hi Lee, check the conection to the wastegate actuator. As per your other post, it looks to me like you have different connection to the wastegate actuator. The circuit should be like this; I'C pipe------->Bleed valve-------->Wastegate actuator cheers