Sydneykid

Whiteline adjustable radius rod bushes are $115 delivered on the Group Buy. cheers

Hi, 19's, 18's, 17's, 16's, 15's ......wheel diameter makes no difference to clearance. The overall tyre diameter should be same, otherwise you get speedo error. That's why the tyre profile drops as the rim sizes increase. A 225/60/15 is the same diameter as a 275/35/18 So don't concern yourself with diameter, width and offset are what you should be looking at. So how wide are the 18's and what offset are they? When talking about height the measurement used in the suspension industry is centre of wheel to guard. A standard R32GTST is around 380mm front and 370 mm rear when new. The minimum height I would recommend is 350/340, as the suspension geometry and travel are not conducive to heights lower than that. cheers

Can you please take some shots from underneath, I really woudl like to see how and where it attaches. Particulary around the muffler area. cheers

The Stagea air deflector is out and undergoing some slight mods, I will be sending it down to the Bass Junky on Wednesday. Sorry for the delay, it only just made it to the top of my never ending list. cheers

It's too late and I am too tired to do the exact calculations. From memory the air in a 75 mm pipe would be travelling at around 800 kph at 7,000 rpm. At that speed it ain't gunna pick up any heat from the pipework. cheers

Hi Mick, glad to hear everthing arrived OK and fitted up, interested in hearing your feedback after a week or so of driving around. On the Bump Stops, they are very progressive and therefore much better than the standard bump stops (which are very hard) when you have a lowered car. The hit (to bump stop) is much softer. That's why I use them. Don't forget to trim them to the appropriate size for the height. The dust covers are not as good as the standard ones, but the best available in the aftermarket in the correct size. If the standard dust covers are OK, I would always use them, but with the aftermarket bump stops. cheers

PM's received and replied to, orders placed and underway. Thanks for supporting the Group Buy. cheers

The Konis could be R32GTR front, they are 25 mm shorter. The rear is unlikely, you would be able to see the welding where the forks where cut off and bushes welded on. Extra cirlip grooves are an easy/quick/cheap/effective answer. Get a few cut, it won't cost much more and then you can get to exactly where you want it Use the standard rubber spring seats on the top. cheers Low is slow

Front tyres worn on the inside is usually either toe or camber, toe looks OK at 0.7 mm each side. So must be camber, I don't usually go over 1 degree on a road car. But 1.2 degrees static is hardly excessive, do you do a lot of freeway/highway driving? Just to complete the picture, what are the heights on all 4 corner, centre of wheel to guard? It maybe a dynamic camber problem, not just a static one. You really should do some adjusting of the rear camber, 1.1 on one side and 0.47 on the other is not so good. The standard adjusters should help in that regard. The rear toe needs correcting as well, has the HICAS been centred lately? cheers

More info please, mods, how's the gearbox holding up, ECU etc etc cheers

I made sure I got all the books with mine and checked the K's and dates of services. Therefore I know the odometer reading was accurate. Pin ain't gunna do it on a digital read out I don't think mine records reverse k's, so the old drill trick wouldn't work. cheers

It's not the amount of boost, but the change in boost that the ECU would need to make use of for mapping purposes. MAP sensors are usefull when boost is building or decaying. But when the pressure stays the same for periods of RPM change they are not much use at all. You still have to use the RPM axis to determin the fuel mapping. cheers

All the Tomei R32 HICAS locking kit does is provide 2 washers and a box of simple electronics to stop the HICAS dash warning Light coming on. For testing you can just lock the rack with suitable sized washers and ignore the HICAS dash warning light, or pull the globe. When you do lock the rear rack you will find that you have lots of toe in, so you will have to wind that out. You don't actually have to do a wheel alignment (although you could). Before I touch anything, I just measure the distance from the rack to the steering arm ball joint (on both sides). Then after I have locked the rack I adjust the steering arms so as I get the same distance as I had before I touched anything. That way I end up with the same static wheel alignment as I had before I locked the rack, so it's a fair back to back test. I don't know one single person who has tried locking the HICAS who hasn't found it to be noticeably more confidence inspiring on the circuit. cheers

So far 6 Stageas fitted with Group Buy kits, so can confirm the following; R33GTR front will fit, valving may be OK depending on shock quality R33GTST rear will fit, valving is not OK. cheers

No duty on stuff made in the USA, good on you Johnny, Free Trade Agreement. cheers

My understanding is they have the same wheelbase, so the side skirts should be the same length. But the Stagea body looks to be wider, hence the tuck in under the doors to line up with the Skyline floor pan/chassis. So I don't think that they would be a simple bolt on. cheers

Correct, even I have dumb days occasionally cheers

The rear bar will fit. cheers

How does that help? The boost controller should be ensuring that the boost stays constant, especially at the sort of rpm the AFM is going to be maxing out at. So the MAP sensor shouldn't see any differences in the pressure. That means there is no variation in the load signal to cause the load mapping reference to move. So all you get is RPM mapping reference changes, which is what you would get with a maxed out AFM anyway. The only time you really need an AFM upgrade is when unanticipateable changes in airflow occur, ie; not linear with rpm changes. At high rpm (ie; past boost build and camshaft timing effects) this shouldn't be an issue. The fuel and ignition requirements are satisfactorily driven off the rpm change. That's why I don't change the AFM's until it is necessary because of tuning requirements, and reaching 5.1 volts at 6,000 rpm in an RB25DET is not one of those. It would seem that RacePace have a similar philosophy. cheers

The problem with the EManage to date has been its poor matching of the load and trigger signals to the ignitor and coils. Several modifications have been tried, including the voltage limiting zenner diode mod. This mod enabled the EManage to fire the ignitor/ignitors, so the engine would at least run. But there were still issues with dwell angle, impedance, decay time etc. So the ignitors/coils worked for a short time, sometimes hours, sometimes days, and they then failed completely. Having heard success claimed several times, only to be disappointed, I don't think it's a good idea to jump in until at least a month and 1,000 k's or so have elapsed. If the engine still runs fine and performs perfectly after that time and distance, I feel we can safely use the product. cheers

Nope, the intercooler has an efficiency, say 70%. That's means it drops the inlet temp to 70% of the difference between the turbo compressor exit temp and the ambient air temp. With good ambient air supply ie; 25 degrees into compressor Ambient air temp = 25 degrees Compressor outlet temp = 65 degrees Intercooler efficiency = 70% 65 - 25 = 40 X 70% = 28 degrees temperature drop accross the intercooler Intercooler exit temp = 65 - 28 = 37 degrees With POD sucking hot air under bonnet ie; 50 degrees into compressor Ambient air temp = 25 degrees Compressor outlet temp = 90 degrees Intercooler efficiency = 70% 90 - 25 = 65 X 70% = 45.5 degrees temperature drop accross the intercooler Intercooler exit temp = 90 - 45.5 = 45.5 degrees That's 8 degrees higher inlet temp which is worth about 5% in horsepower loss. And 50 degrees air inlet temp to POD is conservative, the water in the radiator is around 85 degrees, so it's not unusual to see that sort of inlet temp. The bottom line, quality ambient air feed is very important. cheers

Excellent news. How long has it been running for? How many k's? What's the dyno results look like? cheers PS; if less than a month and 1,000 k's it might be a bit early to jump. One ran for 2 weeks OK, then just stopped, dead coils and ignitor.

My usual order; 1. Choose you power target and usage, and only buy parts that meet that power target and use. If you don't know your power target and what you want to do with it, you will buy the wrong stuff, waste a lot of time and money. 2. Exhaust is always first, the most important upgrade on any turbo engine. 3. Intercooler (since it's not a GTR) the standard intercooler is quite limiting. 3. I do ECU (with boost control) at this stage as I gain a lot of power and improve the fuel economy. If I just turn up the boost the fuel economy turns ot crap plus it fouls plugs, hits rich and retard mapping etc etc. The standard ECU can be very frustrating, takes the enjoyment out. If you power target is over 225 rwkw it will pay to do the AFM upgrade (to Z32) at this time as well. 4. Airfilter, what you do is entirely dependant on your power target, but don't ignore heat shielding and a decent cold air feed. 5. It's turbo time, carefully choose one that meets your power target and response requirements. If high power, you may have to do the exhaust manifold/wastegate at the same time. 6. Cams, Tomei Poncams are hard to beat up to the limit of the standard internals. There is far more detailed info on the forum, the search button is your friend, it is pretty unlikely that you will think of a question that hasn't been asked before. Try this link and its links for a starter; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=66556 cheers

Reduce it's capacity mostly by shortening the stroke, make everything smaller and lighter, particularly the valve train. Sacrifice torque for rpm. cheers

From memory the R32 radiators are around 700 mm wide 600 mm high (including top and bottom tanks) and 25 mm thick (core). In the circuit race cars we use PWR radiators, same width and height but 35 mm thick core (sometimes called a twin core). In a high powered road car we use 50 mm thick (sometimes called a triple core). The race cars have no air con and much larger oil coolers, plus they don't sit in traffic for hours and they get good airflow at speed. The R33's are I believe the same size, I have not measured an R34, but they don't look much different in overall size. cheers