Sydneykid

We have one fitted to one of the race cars (not a Skyline), so far it has worked perfectly. Gives quick warm up and no cavitation at high rpm, plus we can run it after engine shut off to cool it down. Via the Motec we get to choose the engine running temperature, much easier and more accurate than using thermostats with various opening temperatures. So far not a bad thing for a race car, I wouldn't be doing it on a road car though, to much hassle and no real advantage using it in that environment. cheers

Yes, 2 spot sliding callipers front and 1 spot sliding callipers rear, but with much bigger rotors, both front and rear. cheers

Yep, still a few sets of Bilsteins left. Shipping to Tas is 4 days for free, can be cut to 2 days if you pay for airfreight (extra $80). If you want them before Xmas you will have to order today as Bilstein needs 2 days to do the revalving and machining of the extra circlip grooves. At the moment springs and dust cover/bump stop kits are in stock at Whiteline. PM me for order and pricing confirmation. cheers

Ring Kings and ask them, it should be 350/340. They will ask questions like; What was the height before you put the King springs in? What shocks are you using? Konis obviously, but what model? Shock age and condition? What top mounts? Did you re-use the rubber, top spring seat insulator? Heavy sound system or other changes to the weight (engine swap)? cheers

Interesting discussion, having driven over 20+ Skylines on the track, with and without HICAS, I feel quite confident in saying that it is not my friend and I would remove it at the earliest opportunity. The transition, as shown in the following diagram, between the rear steering angle in (1) and (2) confirms what I can feel. When cornering at high slip angles, having the rear wheels change direction is not good for controlling the traction. Personally I like to do that with the throttle, and for people who trail brake it would be quite disconcerting. It's all about consistency in feel and feedback, the speed sensitivity in the HICAS software just makes that consistency even more difficult to achieve. I have a dislike of entering a corner at X - 1 kph on one lap and having the HICAS take some action. Then in the same corner on the next lap at X + 1 kph take a different action. I don't really care what kph X represents, chances are I will find at least one corner with X as its appropriate speed on most circuits. Since disabling HICAS is a simple zero cost modification, I don't feel that I have to sacrifice/delay other mods. It is only if I wish to take advantage of the potential weight saving that I have to spend $150, which doesn't buy much else anyway. cheers PS; Note the following picture of Stagea RSFour rear suspension and the absence of HICAS;

Sharing maps for RB's is not aways a good idea, let's face it rotaries are pretty much all 13B's. We have RB20/23/24/25/26/27/28/30/31 and you can't just whack an RB31 map into an RB20 and expect it to run. Add in single tubos, twin turbos, 20 or so different camshaft profiles, 15 or more common injector sizes and you can understand why most maps don't transfer from one engine to another. There is plenty of tuning info on this forum as well as DIY guides, you just have to be prepared to do a search and then spend the time reading. cheers

Tuning a Power FC is no different to any other ECU, from one of my previous posts this is how I do it; Tuning with a PFC pretty easy, the base maps are not too far from the right shape. All up the R32GTST took about 40 minutes to tune. My method for A/F ratio tuning; 1. Do a power run with zero correction, took about 8 seconds. 2. Closely look at the A/F ratios from that power run. Took about 3 minutes 3. Pick a range where the A/F ratios were fairly constant but very crappy, which in my case was 4,000 to 4,500 rpm where they were just under 10 to 1. 4. Do another run and used the dyno load to hold it in that rpm range and apply correction until the A/F ratios were between 11.8 and 12.0 to 1. Make sure there is no pre-ignition with those corrections. Took about 15 seconds. 5. Make careful note of that correction, about 5 points made 1.5 A/F ratio diff. Then make guesses for the other load points following the A/F ratios from the first power run. Took about 10 minutes. 6. Do a power run, and tidy up the A/F ratios as required. Took about 40 seconds. 7. Finished. The real trick is #5, noting how much correction does what to the A/F ratios and where the various load points are on the map. That reduces the time under load on the dyno and it is very fast loading up corrections off line. Doing it in during a power run is tricky and much slower, plus it heats up the engine rather quickly and is not good for the transmission (no 160 kph airflow to cool it down). Ignition timing is even easier, stick the ears on and advance it up until you hear it ping then back it off. Do that at around 5 or 6 load points, then (off line) extrapolate that over the map. It's always a bit tricky at boost building time, so we have to spend a few minutes in that area getting the timing just right. One power run to log everything and then maybe a little tidy up here or there. That's the real advantage of a PFC, the base stuff is already there, so you don't have to approach it like EVERYTHING needs changing. Most of the tuning on the race team cars is done by our dyno guy, he has a "feel" for it. What takes me 10 minutes to get 99% right, he does in 2 and gets it 100% right. :fart: Hope that helps cheers

Hi Brad, all of the Jun cams I have seen are billets. They have to use a smaller base circle to get the lift, RB cylinder heads don't have enough room. The Jun instructions and web site both quote the following for all lifts over 10.5 mm; Clearance of head for cam lobe rotation required. Special valve spring required. Special valve retainer required. The "Special valve retainer required" means the cam has a different (ie; smaller) base circle to standard. cheers

Are they HKS 550cc's injectors for an RB26 or for an RB20? cheers

GTR injectors (444cc's) are the most common upgrade, you just need to get a GTR ballast resistor pack to go with them. They flow enough to reach the limit of standard RB20DET internals. The Standard ECU (remapped) won't have any problem running them. cheers

Hi Harold, this thread has almost all of the info you should need on Stagea brakes http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=82083 Honestly. the search button is your friend, pretty much every subject you can think of with Stageas has been discussed on this forum. cheers

No update, still working on it. cheers

Think about it Nick, is that really the right thing to do? What happens when one day you just HAVE to run the tank right down? It will pick up ALL the crap in one go, clog the filter and you ain't going nowhere. Personally I reckon it is better to run the tank down every time, that way there is no accumulation of crap. Plus I know what happens when it gets low, it surges at around 5 litres left in the tank, keep the G forces down and it will be OK for another 20k's or so. It will do at least 80k's after the light has come on. That's all valuable info for the one day when you need to know it. The first time I run a car right down I always make sure I have a fuel filter to change. I have no worries from then on. cheers

They work fine with a Power FC. cheers

Oh my, a red motor, I owned one of those......once....... The IEBC should work, it only needs a trigger signal that varies in length (gets longer) with engine load. Maybe stick a cro on it first, just to check what the injector signal looks like. cheers

I have used the same basic running in process for lots of years and on many engines; Castrol GTX (the basic no frills mineral oil) with new filter. Run engine for about 1/2 hr or until well warm. Change oil filter. Engines can have particles in them that acccumulate during the build/maching proces and they need to be removed from the engine ASAP, these are caught in the oil filter. If you leave them in, the oil filter can get blocked and so it will be bypassed ie; no filtering. Check the basic tune on the dyno or on the road with portable lambda sensor. Drive to Bathurst and back, around 500k's, lots of varying conditions, up and down hills, freeway, long climbs etc. Don't rev the beegeesus out of it, gentle but firm, change throttle openings often, no slogging it in high gears with lots of throttle and load it up with partial throttle openings going up hills. Drain the GTX and remove the oil filter. Refill with Castrol Formula R Synthetic 10W60 and fit a new oil filter. Do leak down test, if OK then final tune on the dyno. Go racing Cheers

Nope they don't, HKS cams are dialed in perfectly at the the standard markings. It doesn't matter anyway, you are going to tune the camshaft timing on the dyno using the adjustable camshaft pulleys. So setting them up perfectly first is a complete waste of time. The most common setting is 4 degrees retarde on the exhaust and 2 degrees advanced on the inlet. But every car is different. cheers

Hi Craig, my suggestions; 1. Don't specify a caster target, get Doug to get you as much as he can. You can never have too much caster on a Skyline 2. Front at 1 degree negative camber is OK, a little more won't hurt on the track. Road use tyre wear becomes an issue over 1.5 degrees negative 3. 1 degree on the rear is OK for the track 4. Do you still have the HICAS connected, if so a little toe in would be my choice. If no HICAS, then I usually aim for zero toe, especially on higher power Skylines. They don't need any help, they oversteer on demand. 5. Front toe out is good for turn in, about 1 to 2 mm per side 6. Skyline front guards are cut higher (~15 mm) than the rear guards, so flat (no rake) would be 350 mm front and 335 mm rear. Personally I like a bit of rake, arond 10 mm nose down on a 2wd and 5mm on a 4wd. So 340-350 mm rear would be my target. The rear negative camber is very sensitive at that height, so it may be necessary to go up to 350 mm to achieve the target static negative camber. Doug knows what he is doing, he will achieve the best he can and remember every car is different. cheers

Rear has standard camber adjusters on the inner upper control arm. Limited adjustment only. No camber adjusters standard on the front. I strongly suggest you have a read of this thread before commiting to a product style. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=91064 cheers

A quick update, due to the problems of heavy wear associated with open sperical bearings in a road environment (ie; water, dust, mud etc) a couple of manufacturers are currently testing sealed spherical bearings. They are also attempting to get them approved for road use. More news as soon as the testing is completed. cheers

Newtons law in action. To accelerate the car, first the engine must accelerate the rotating assemblies. That's everything in between the harmonic balancer and the tyre. The lighter you make them, the less power is absorbed accelerating the rotating parts and the more power there is left over to accelerate the car. Try it for yourself, jack the car up and free rev the engine with the clutch in. Then stick it in 4th gear as it is 1 to 1, sorry 5th gear in your case, you have close ratio gears. Compare how much slower the engine revs, because it has to accelerate all of the rotating parts. Heavy components are useful for holding rpm, because they store kinetic energy. But when acceleration (or deceleration) is important you want the lightest rotating mass you can achieve. cheers

You won't be doing any racing if I am scrutineering, it'll be "pack you bags and don't come back until you have fixed it". cheers

Just need to clarify some points; 1. This is an RB25DET right? 2. With VT on the inlet cam, so it only has an adjustable pullety on the exhaust camshaft? 3. The cams are Tomei 256 degree Poncams? If the above is correct, all the Poncam equiped RB25's I have seen work best at zero on the exhaust camshaft timing. But every engine is different, so it pays to check. Make sure the VVT is connected and working, they make little power with poor inlet camshaft timing. Check the inlet camshaft timing, there are marks on the rear cam cover for both the inlet and the exhaust pulley which line up when the crank is at TDC. Standard pulley, red dots show the camshaft timing marks at TDC Close up of a HKS pulley show the line up with the rear cam cover mark at TDC; Check the igntion timing carefully with a timing light that wil tell you if the exhaust camshaft timing is out. The CAS should sit pretty much in the middle of the slots for the ignition timing to be at 15 degrees (BTDC) and with the exhaust camshaft timed at 0. My guess......inlet camshaft timing My worry......bent valves from poor camshaft timing set up My suggestion .....do a leak down test just to be sure cheers

If the heavy duty gets rated at 2 tonne I will have one, that way I can tow the race GTR if necessary. cheers

Fair enough cheers