Sydneykid

I have finished the engineering on the Bilstein/Whiteline suspension kit for R33/34GTR's that are designed to be used on the circuit frequently. They are suitable to drive to and from the circuit and would perform quite well in tarmac rallies, targas etc. The kit is not really designed for every day use, the spring and bar rates plus the alignment settings are not really suitable for all road conditions. The shock and spring units are genuine Bilstein with both height and rate adjustment. Many shocks only adjust the rebound damping, these adjust both bump and rebound with a single knob. The front shocks have the adjuster on the top so it is easily accesible from the engine bay. The rear shocks have the adjuster at the bottom as the parcel shelf and rear bulkhead in R33/34's prevent access to top adjusters. The adjustable stabiliser bars, caster, camber and rear subframe bushes are from Whiteline. The alignment settings have been arrived at from extensive testing sessions at Eastern Creek, Oran Park and Wakefield Park. The GTR was fitted with Yokohama A032R's in 245/45/17 and A048R's in 265/35/18, the settings did not vary much between the 2 sizes. Compared to the same GTR fitted with standard suspension and the same tyres, the lap times were 6 seconds per lap faster at Eastern Creek, 4.5 seconds faster at Opan Park and 4 seconds faster at Wakefield Park. I can confidently the settings are a good starting point for anyone running R compound tyres on any circuit in Australia. Of course faster lap times will result from further fine tuning for the track and weather conditons on the day. Watch this space PS; if you drive your GTR everyday and only do the ocasional track day, this is not the kit for you. You need http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=87826

Wow 1480 kgs is pretty light, was that with an empty tank and what sort of cage does it have? cheers

I hear that a lot from people. But I subscribe to the reverse logic. I always run my tank down to almost dry before I refill it. That way any little bits get picked up and deposited into the fuel filter regularly. Otherwise they build up in the tank and that one time when you HAVE to use a full tank, you get this great big lump of crap all getting picked up at once. Probably enough to block the filter and cause all sorts of problems. I figure that's why I change the fuel filter regualrly to get rid of the crap. It always sounded a bit strange to me to not use the fuel filter for what it was intended for. But maybe that's just my perverse way of thinking. cheers

Quick summary; Spherical bearingss are illegal in CAMS Production classes, you have to use rubber Spherical bearingss are illegal in CAMS Improved Production classes, you can replace rubber with polyurethane though. Spherical bearings are legal in CAMS Sports Sedan classes. Sphericla bearings are legal in V8Supercars Targa rules vary, but in general if it didn't come with spherical bearings standard then you can't use them. In the Sports Sedans we replace all of the sphericals every year at rebuild time. The lap times drop off noticeably if we don't. There are also a number of highly stressed areas where they are replaced more regularly. The front and rear control arms, the watts linkage and the front radius rods are the most common. In the V8SuperCars we replace all of the spericals every year and the high stress ones after 10 hours of racing. For example new ones are installed for Bathurst and replaced before the next race. We use race quality spherical bearings and a full set for a sports sedan costs around $5K to replace. They are not inferior quality by any means. Polyurethane comes in a number of grades (hardness) which is measured in duro. Standard rubber bushes are around 45 duro, you can get polyurethane that is also 45 duro. Most aftermarket/off the shelf polyurethane bushes are 70/75 duro but you can get "competition" bushes up to 90/95 duro. At 75 duo they transmitt very little extra NVH, at 90 duro it is noticeable but not excessive. Nowhere near as noisy as a solid joint using spherical bearings. Keeping all of that in mind, my suggestion would be to use spherical bearings in suspension on cars that are ONLY used on the track. They may be driven on the road only to get to the local track. Plus make sure that they are legal for the class that you want to compete in. Check them regularly and replace them as soon as they have free play. Make sure that the arms/links that you buy have spehericals that can be replaced with new ones. Many have unique sizes/threads/dimensions that you can't buy aftermarket sphericals for, so you have to buy new arms when the bearings wear. Hope that helps some more cheers

I need a pair of front CV boots, one is split so I might as well get the pair. Can you do a search for me please. Use your Stagea vin number, it won't matter as all RSFours are the same. cheers

Pretty firm :lol: :lol: :lol: They are almost 3 times what the Group Buy spring rates are. And they are pretty sporty, with reasonable comfort. Cheers

Hi Chris, The front is a 2.5" race coil, unlikely to be 11.9 mm, 12 mm is closest. If so the spring rate is 750 lbs per inch (13.5 kg/mm) The rear is also a 2.25" race coil, unlikely to be 12.6 mm, most likely 1/2" (12.5 mm). If so the spring rate is 600 lbs per inch (10.8 kg/mm) cheers

Yep, standard R32's have non tolerant seals. R33/34 and rebuilt R32's have been OK to date. cheers

My 20 cents worth.......... The secrets to getting a standard internals RB30DET to survive are; A. no more than 475 bhp (290 rwkw) B. no more than 1.1 bar of boost C. no more than 7,000 rpm D. avoid detonation (nothing more than 10 on the PFC scale) E. tuning, tuning, tuning 1. You are running a 700 bhp turbo on an engine that won't handle more than 475 bhp (~290 rwkw) for very long. In order to keep the engine alive for any length of time you are going to be using less than half of its airflow capablity. At the same time you are puting up with 700 bhp worth of lag 2. You are running a turbo that doesn't get efficient until it is making 1.3 bar on an engine that won't handle more than 1.1 bar for very long. In order to keep the engine alive for any length of time you are going to be using it at very low efficiencies. At the same time you are puting up with a large turbo (airflow capable) worth of lag 3. You are running a turbo that doesn't generate efficient airflow until 6,000 rpm on engine that shouldn't be rev'd over 7,000 rpm very often. That's a 1,000 rpm powr band, that means on the 1st to 2nd gear change you will have to wait for 2,000 rpm before it gets into stride again. 4. If your mate told you he was geting 2.2 bar (that's full boost on a GT3540) at 3,500 rpm on a 1J he was eitther lying or dreaming. 5. You will need an AFM upgrade, the RB25AFM will get to 5.1 volts around 225 rwkw, with careful tuning you could stretch to 245 rwkw. But 290 rwkw is way beyond stretch and isn't safe. The airflow characteristics of the GT3540 will change after the RB25AFM reaches 5.1 volts. It's time for a Z32 AFM upgrade. 6. Are you running the pump on 12 volts or 13.8 volts? ie; do you have a relay and dedicated wiring back to the battery for the fuel pump or are you still using the standard wiring. If you are getting 13.8 volts at the fuel pump it will be OK for 300 rwkw at 1 bar boost. If you run more boost than that than the fuewl pump flow rate slows down quite dramatically. cheers

In order for this thread to solve the current confusion, we need to be specific. So I need to clarify a few points; 1. This is an R32GTR, correct? 2. The PFC BCK was #415-A001, correct? 3. You simply plugged the BKC solenoid plug (2 pin male) into the standard plug (2 pin female), replacing the standard solenoid, correct? 4. You did not use the BKC MAP sensor, correct? 5. You did not use the BKC wiring harness, correct? My understanding is the standard MAP sensor on R32GTR's is 1.5 bar and the one supplied with the BKC kit is 2.5 bar (5 volt). So if you are running less than 1.5 bar the standard MAP sensor is OK, but if you are running over 1.5 bar then you need to use the BKC MAP sensor for the PFC and the standard MAP sensor to run the gauge in the dash. cheers

You are dreaming if you think that's the case. Plenty of guys have thought that, most are now back to the original coil on plug set up. The rest sold the car. A faulty coil/coils do not display all of the symptoms you are describing. Cleaned the injectors lately? Cleaned the AFM lately? Changed the plugs lately? Checked the AAC valve? cheers

Oh my, now even I am confused; He says don't use Dot 3 or Dot 4 because they absorb water and that lowers the boiling point He says don't use Dot 5 or Dot 5.1 because they don't absorb water, so it collects, boils and causes vapour lock Yeh, thanks........a lot So I read the Castrol Product Data Sheet; http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter.../s/SRF_B768.pdf It says that Castrol know about the vapour lock in silicone brake fluids and have formulated SRF for vapour lock protection. cheers

This thread is all about the buying, building and using a Tech Edge A/F ratio meter and accesories, I have the following on order; 1 X Wideband 2A0 kit (4.0 cable kit & 7057 connector) 1 X TE-LD02 LED Display kit 1 X 0 258 007 057 LSU sensor 1 X 2A0 to 2A1 upgrade The all up price is $444 inc GST and postage. More detail on www.techedge.com.au Any other guys building, buying or using A/F ratio meteres it would be good to compare our experiences. cheers PS; when I have finished building and testing this unit, it will be available for renting.

Simplistically, all a lambda sensor does is compare the oxygen in the exhaust with the oxygen around in the ambient air. Since the ambient air is what goes into the engine, it is entitrely valid to compare what goes in with what comes out. Hence no need for a pure oxygen calibration. So, bascially what is require to do a calibration is to heat up the lambda sensor, using its own inbuilt heater, with the lambda sensor itself fully exposed to the ambient air (ie; not in the exhaust). The heat up time, temperature and rate is controlled by the A/F meter and is specific/unique for each type of lambda sensor. Takes around 30 seconds to a minute to achieve calibration temperature. The A/F meter is then set to calibrate mode, since the lambda sensor is open to ambient air it calibrates itself so that the readings are the same. Calibration completed, let the lambda sensor cool down so that you can install it into the exhaust. This only takes 5 to 10 minutes depending on A/F metres, but it is amazing how infrequently it is done. The instructions for calibrating the lambda sensor (both initial/first time and ongoing calibrations) on the 2EO is included in the instructions. They are available on download as well. I will be very interested in how you get on with building the 2EO kit and how it functions once it is built. I have opened up a new thread on buying building and using a Tech Edge A/F ratio Meter, please post in that thread any tips and comments on your experiences. I have the following on order; 1 X Wideband 2A0 kit (4.0 cable kit & 7057 connector) 1 X TE-LD02 LED Display kit 1 X 0 258 007 057 LSU sensor 1 X 2A0 to 2A1 upgrade Would be good to compare build and useage experiences. cheers

What model of Skyline and PFC was that? cheers

We use Castrol SRF cheers

May not be the front causing the problem. Post up the results of the wheel alignment on all 4 wheels. So we can have a look, I am sure one of us will be able to find the answer. cheers

Same diameter tyres front and rear is essential. (width is irrelevant) Think of the ATEESA system like it's a clutch ('cause that's exactly what it really is). By having different diameter tyres front and rear you are askling "the clutch" to slip all the way down the strip. All the while the ATTESA ECU is trying to stop the clutch from slipping with additional hyrdraulic action. Obviously this is not a good idea. cheers

If you have a digital camera please post up some pictures, I am not sure I understand the problem and I have done hundreds of brake calliper swaps. cheers

I get at least one PM every week asking how to connect up a Power FC Boost Control Kit (PFC BCK). So I decided to take a few pictures to kick this off, post them up and let others post up their connections. The MAP sensor As you can see there are 3 wires coming out of the MAP sensor; Red = psotitive Back = negative (earth) Green = signal There is also a vacuum connection, the black hose is connected to it in the picture and it has a small air filter (to keep crap out of the MAP sensor). There is a T piece at the end of the hose it can be plumbed into the vacuum circuit (usually in parallel to the standard MAP sensor). The Solenoid; As you can see there are 2 wires coming out of the Solenoid; Pink = positive Black = negative This then plugs into the MAP sensor wiring harness via the generic black 2 pin plug. The wiring colours change through the plug; Pink = Red Black = Brown The complete kit The wiring from the MAP sensor and the Solenoid end up at one white 5 pin female plug which fits into the side of the Power FC. So, does your PFC BCK look like this one? If not post up some pictures and let us know the wiring codes so that we can compare. cheers

Would be good to do a HKS T04Z versus Garret T04Z comparison. What were the relative prices? What do the dimensions measure up like? Did either of you guys get/find a compressor map? cheers