Sydneykid

My guess is someone has tried to tighten the bolt up with the plug not aligned. I would drill it and use an easyout. Much neater. Nissan recommends changing them every 40,000k's. They don't "wear out" in a mechanical sense. They just get contaminated and don't read the A/F ratios properly. cheers

Welcome to the blue Stagea owners club. cheers

R33GTST's don't have inlet air temp sensors, neither does my Stagea. The only Skylines I have with inlet air temp sensors are the R32GTR's and the R32GTST with the RB31DET in it. It has an RB26 top end, so I wired up the GTR inlet air temp sensor. The Power FC handles the tune of course, however the inlet air temp correction table only has 3 settings (default is 70/60/50 degrees) for ignition timing changes. And it isn't rpm sensitive (ie; it's a 2 dimension map). For zero cost you could achieve the same result by simply advancing the CAS. Plus I have no idea how you are going to fit one on a Stagea, no sensor for a start, no ECU input and the standard ECU has no correction table to reference anyway. cheers

I am not going to bother, I don't think it makes any difference when you don't have any error codes. You can unplug the ECU, that resets it. Or unplug the battery and stomp on the brake pedal (with the igntion switch on) a few times to make sure all the power is drained. I hate doing that as the clock looses its time and the radio looses all of it preset stations. cheers

Yep it's too high that's why the bonnet ribbing rubs on it. I found I had to have longer right angle brackets (where the bolts go). So it sits lower at the rear. I also found it was better to have a greater than 90 degree angle in the brackets. Around 110 degrees pushes the front down a bit and the bonnet ribbing doesn't touch it now. But it is still close. cheers

I cut off the Ford plug and then I checked the lambda sensor plug (three pin) on the Stagea and BINGO it is the same as the lambda sensor plug on the R32GTST. So I cut off the old R32GTST lambda sensor and then used a crimp joiner to attached the three wires, 2 X blacks to the outside pins and the 1 X blue to the inside pin. Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility. The lambda sensor is 22mm, and I have a big 22mm ring spanner that should do the job just nicely. Remove the old lambda sensor and screw in the new one. Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility. Then plug the new lambda sensor in, Picture will go here when I figure out what's wrong with the upload facility. Fill the Stagea up on the way to work tomorrow and check the fuel economy over the next week or so. I will post up before and after results cheers

Fantastic but I keep getting this error code What am I doing wrong? cheers

I am slightly confused, let me see if I can help......... The DFA is wired in series with the AFM, it goes AFM-------->(input)DFA(output)-------->ECU ie; you have to cut the AFM wire to the ECU and connect it as above. If the DFA is turned off the car shouldn't run as there is no AFM signal getting through to the ECU. Re; the IEBC and P&H injectors, I suggest you drive it around for a while and watch the display before signing off that the IEBC is somehow miraculously reading the P&H signals correctly. The IEBC on the Stagea sits at mid 30's on idle, 6 is very low injector duty. I would need to put ~1400cc injectors in the Stagea before it would read less than 10 at idle. Hope that helps cheers PS; I use bullet connectors all the time, never had a problem. Most Apexi stuff comes with bullet connectors standard (eg; refer the SITC thread), so I am not alone in having confidence in them. Race cars wiring connections are almost never soldered, they crack under the vibration.

Pretty much as Roy posted. But not a lot is transferable from the IP GTR as it runs Proflex shocks. My own GTR (Bilstein shock) settings follow; Caster, as much as you can get before the front of the tyres hit the guards, usualy ~6 degrees positive Camber, varies from circuit to circuit, we also run stagger (different side to side) on some circuits. On the front, never less than 2.5 degrees negative and never more than 4 degree negative. On the rear, between 1 and 2 degrees negative. Front stabiliser bar is a Whiteline 24mm (solid) adjustable, most circuits on the softest setting, sometimes 1 or 2 up from that, harldy ever at hardest setting. Rear stabiliser bar is a Whiteline 24mm (solid) adjustable, most circuits on the middle 2 settings. I also have a 22mm (solid) adjustable for when it rains, the 24mm, even on the softest setting is too much antiroll. The final camber settings are determined by tyre temperatures on the day, some circuits (eg; Eastern Creek) have constantly changing grip levels during the day. So easily accesable and referenced stabiliser bar adjustments are an advantage. The front diff is a 1 way and the rear is a 1.5 way, it has 2 extra plates in the transfer case and an ATTESSA controller is fitted, I like the 30/70 (front/rear) setting in the dry. Around 60/40 seems better in the wet, sometimes. I run a little anti dive on the front and quite a bit of anti squat on the rear as the rear spring rate is quite soft at 200 to 250 lbs per inch. The front spring rate is 400 lbs to 500 lbs, depending on the circuit. Most important, the ride height, I run 350 mm centre of wheel to guard on the front with around 10 mm of rake in the dry and 15 mm in the wet or slippery conditions. Obviously it is corner weighted to get the diagonals where I want them, again I run stagger on some circuits. There are so many adjustments available (suspension and 4wd) it is very easy to get lost. When you add the IP car's adjustable bump and rebound settings, you can go round in circles chasing the setup. The best suggestion I can make is to decide on the basic settings and then use the stabiliser bars adjustment to fine tune it on the day. Hope that was of some help cheers

I must be having a dumb day...........how does cleaning the injectors improve the fuel economy? Surely a dirty injector flows less, so the fuel economy should be worse when it is cleaned and flows more. The ECU doesn't know that the injector is dirty, it still opens and closes it according to the mapping. In closed loop running, the ECU aims for 14.7, so it doesn't matter if the injector is dirty, 14.7 is still 14.7. If the engine runs rough because the injectors are very dirty, then I can see a case for cleaning them improving the efficiency of the engine. But if the engine is running nice and making good power then the injectors aren't that dirty. Even slightly dirty injectors aren't good for power or engine life, but I can't rationalise fuel economy improvements from cleaning them. As I said, I must be just having a dumb day........ cheers

If you do, you can have mine as a template. cheers

Pardon me for being suspicious, but don't they make money from selling/fitting AFM's? cheers

There are 2 models of RB26 oil pump, the early model (R32GTR and early R33GTR) will fit RB20/25/30 cranks. The later model RB26 oil pump (late R33GTR and R34GTR) will only fit via an adaptor ring. Do a search if you need more info. cheers

Tip, don't cut the standard plug off, wire the Z32 plug in parrallel, That way you can swap back to the RB25 AFM if you have a problem. cheers

The question of what wheel size fits what Skyline comes up so often I though this might be a good place to post your own wheel dimensions. Just copy and fill in the table; Skyline model = Wheel diameter = Wheel width = Wheel offset = Tyre size = Modifications to fit = One of mine as an example; Skyline model = R32GTST Wheel diameter = 17" Wheel width = 8" Wheel offset = 35 Tyre size = 245/45/17 Modifications to fit = remove the front inner plastic guards, roll rear lip slightly. cheers

R32GTS4 is the same as R32GTR, slight weight difference, but the shock configuration is the same. For a search try "Bilstein" "Sydneykid" in the Suspension section. Height adjustable? Via circlip or screw thread bottom spring seat? Have a look at the pictures in the Stagea Suspension thread in the Stagea section BTW; RSFour Stagea is 4wd, like GTS4 and GTR. cheers

Nowhere near enough information to make a call here. Let's start with; Exactly why don't they fit? Dimensions? Standard springs? Or aftermarket springs? Front springs or rear springs? What shocks are you trying to fit them too? What shocks did the springs comes off? You also need to be aware of this post for a guy with an R32 trying to fit R32GTR springs. Most of it applies to R33's as well. cheers

The "big metal pipe" should be painted black like the sub frame and should bolt unobtrusivley in the same spot. ,Then you put the standard rubber boots on each end of the tube with the standard steering arms screwed into the end of the tube inside the rubber boots. I should look just like the standard steering rack does. Splash a bit of mud on it if you like, so it is not clean and the surroundings are dirty. I have never seen a Tomei HICAS lock kit for an R33 (electric motor), I have only seen R32 ones (hydraulic ram). What you want to achieve is actually quite simple. Remove the standard rack, there are 2 hydraulic hoses connected to it. Unbolt the hoses from the rack and from the terminal block and close off the fittings in the terminal block with bolts. Put the hydraulic lines in a plastic bag and store it in a safe place. Then undo the the hydraunlic hose from the front solenoids, under the inlet manifold on the RHS inner guard. Buy a short (around 600 mm) piece of rubber bypass hose (hydraulic) from Pirtec, Enzed etc and slip one end of it over the steel pipe that comes from the power steering pump up to the solenoids. Then stick the other end over the steel pipework that comes from the cooler pipe (it runs around in a loop in front of the radiator). Don't forget to block off the holes in the front solenoid block with bolts as well to keep the crap out. To turn it back to standard just remove the bypass hose, whack the standard hoses back on (front and rear) and swap the rear rack. Once you have done it, it should only take an hour or so, including jacking the car up. Hope that helps cheers PS; I still think you are stressing over nothing, if you do a good job, no one will ever notice. Plus you get to save 20 kgs or so.

Hi, simple to fix, I haven't used the UAS kit but I have done plenty of rotor size upgrades over the years. Simply cut around 2mm from the top (radius) of the pad material with a hacksaw. Takes about 1 minute per pad. The trick is to get the pad and lay it on the rotor so that the outside of pad radius lines up with the rotor. You will find that the pads is a tighter radius, so you can mark it with a pencil and then trim it with a hacksaw. You can also file/emery it, but that makes a dusty mess. UAS should really sell the kit with pads that have a larger (outer) radius to suite the larger radius rotors. cheers There's a free tip for you, John

Yep, it's all downhill after midday, even worse if I eat too much lunch. I have never been very good at turning up and racking up a time first run in the morning though. I need a few laps to get the brain up to speed. So I tend to get faster as the day goes on, even at Oran Park where I have done a thousand laps or so. cheers

Be careful Ken, there are a couple of us in motorsport, the one with 2 R's and an E is more familiar with PW than me. We did think of doing Bathurst together once just to confuse the commentators, particualrly the round man of sound. The Parsons, David and David, ended up doing it a few years afer we talked about it. But they had different nick names, made it too easy. cheers

Hi Ian, happens all the time, Duncan correctly mentioned driver issues. But the track really gets crappy as the day wears on, more people bring stuff back on after a few offs, the ambient air temp goes up, so less power, the engine, tyres, brakes etc go off as well. The race team RX7 was within 5/100ths of the outright IP lap record in the Sunday Morning race and couldn't get within 1 sec of it in the afternoon race. Hi Dunk, you really need to update your CAMS manual. N/A rotaries are double the Mazda calculated capacity (13B = 2.6L ), then times 1.7 for turbo. So a turbo rotary 13B is 4.4L. The IP restrictor for a turbo car is 1 X 36 mm or 2 X 27 mm for a twin turbo. The WRC cars are 34 mm, that's where the most commonly quoted power output of 340 bhp comes from. The 2 X 27mm restrictors is slightly larger than 1 X 36mm, but the GTR is still nowhere near 400 bhp. There is only one RX7 in front of the GTR now and 10 rotaries behind it. That RX7 is very well prepared and driven by a class driver, has a good engine builder, top brakes and excellent suspension starting with Ohlins dampers. On the longer circuits the V8's are really the problem, they have no restrictions so make >700 bhp from their 6 litre dinosaurs. At Philip Island there is a far bigger differential, they get to 275 kph and the GTR struggles with the airflow restrictions from 225 kph. Even at Sandown (two drag strips joined by a wiggle) the RX7 struggles with V8's and the GTR would be even worse off. All that said, IP racing is the best class around, we have simply learnt how to work within the regulations and make the best car we can out of it. cheers

It's not simply springs, the shocks (mounts and spring seat heights) are different as well. Yes I know about the rear, what do you want to know? Maybe I can simplify this a little bit, Nissan didn't want people to pinch bits of GTR's and use them on GTST's. That would deminish the value of buying a GTR, you wouldn't pay the extra $ if you could simply swap bits over easily. So Nissan DELIBERATELY made lots of stuff (the good bits) on GTR's different so they won't fit on GTS's. My suggestion is to simply move on, there are better solutions to whatever it is you are trying to achieve. cheers

Listen to what the guys are telling you. Some Skylines don't come with HICAS. How does Regency (or anyone else) know whether your car came with HICAS? It's not on the registration details for any of my cars. Firstly, you obviously didn't read the thread properly, you can't simply loop the hydraulic hoses. There is still a rear steering rack and it needs to be replaced with something solid, otherwise the rear end will steer (a little bit) all on its own. Secondly, you obviously didn't read the thread properly, well not my posts anyway. There is no hydraulic pressure when you bypass the front solenoids and run the power steering fluid return through the cooler pipe and back into the reservoir. So a piece of (longer) hose is a perfectly acceptable solution, in fact Nissan uses a piece of hose at the reservoir on the return. Thirdly, you obviously didn't read the thread properly, as there is an explanation of how the Tomei HICAS locking kit works. If you are still (unnecessarily) concerned about going back to standard, then that kit is a perfectly suitable solution. Hope that convinces you to re-read the thread. cheers

You are kidding right? GTR's weigh ~200kgs more than a GTST, almost all of it carried by the front wheels. The front spring rate on a GTST is around 3kg/mm, so the lower weight would mean around 66mm (200 kgs / 3 kg/mm) higher if you stuck GTR front springs in a GTST. cheers