Sydneykid

Good timing Bob, our Stagea arrives in two weeks, but it won't be complied until 10 days after that, plus a couple of days to get to Sydney and then it's rego time.

Hi Matt, we find Sandown is the only circuit we go to where you have to tune the suspension for the straight. We have to soften the spring rate, increase the ride height, decrease the shock settings on low frequency compression, increase the low frequency rebound damping and then stiffen up the anti roll bars to compensate. I have even tried removing the toe out from the rear and adding a bit of toe in for stability. I don't know how much of this you can do, but just increasing the ride height 10 mm will help.

Well bbenny, since you have to remove the std ones anyway, it is time efficient. You will get a better result, more in average power than max. Bottom line is, it's your money.

You could be right BHDave. All we need now is someone with an auto who has actually tried it.

Could be wrong, but I think not. I don't believe the E-manage adds X amount (of retard) to the standard ignition timing (as varied by rpm of course). I think it chooses the timing all on its own, as per the tuners input. Otherwise you could only have retarded timing, not advanced, as it wouldn't know when to fire because the ecu wouldn't have told it yet. Did that make sense?

Please post the before and after dyno sheets, please.

Or the same airflow at lower boost. Look at it the other way, same air flow = same power but at lower boost. This means less resistance to shaft rotation = lower load on the turbo. Not if you net off the lower torque loading on the shaft. Maybe some examples.... Option 1 = 200 rwkw at 1 bar with standard cams Option 2 = 220 rwkw at 1 bar with aftermarket cams Option 3 = 200 rwkw at 0.8 bar with aftermarket cams Option 4 = 215 rwkw at 0.9 bar with aftermarket cams Maybe Option 4 is less turbo damaging than Option 1, but there is little doubt that Option 3 is. Heat is also very relevant here, if we are talking about a standard ceramic turbine equiped turbo. Depending on the efficiency of the turbo and its ability to heat the inlet air and/or the intercooler efficiency, we may well find that Option 4 is still less turbo damaging than Option 1. Interesting thread this one, hope I added to it a bit

Your mods list says Power FC, that's why.

Hi B-man, Whiteline make all sorts of springs. We use race coils, ground flat top and bottom, parrallel sides. They look like this http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/feature...feature0310.jpg Their "Works kit" has way more than springs and shocks in it, but the springs are Skyline configuration, tapered (not parrallel) coils to fit the standard spring seat configuration. They look like this http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/product...s/kca348_02.jpg Some "Works Kits" have Bilsteins shocks, some have Konis, some have others. Whiteline choose the one that best suites the application and then revalves them to suite the spring and stabiliser bar rates in the kit. Hope that answered your questions

It really depends on what other stuff you are runing (anti roll bars, roll cage, dampers, braces etc). Even the brand and compound of the R tyre makes a difference eg; we find Yoko A032R's like a slightly lower spring rate than Bridgestones or Dunlops. Plus whether they are buffed or unbuffed (full tread) makes a difference as well. The philospohy we have found that works for GTR's is based on the fact that they don't need as much weight transfer to the rear, being 4wd. So you can run more rear spring rate and still get the power down. Our GTR is 1610 kgs (with driver) and the GTST is 1245 kgs with driver, so we have to compensate for the extra weight with a higher rate spring. Otherwise we end up with too much travel under compression. Plus the GTR trends to understeer more that the GTST, so we have to run a softer (24 mm adj) front stabiliser bar. The end result on A032R's is around 600 lbs (13 kg/mm) in the front spring rate, although we have used up to 800 lbs (16 kg/mm). The rear spring rate is in the 450 lbs (9 kg/mm) with the 24 mm adj rear stabiliser bar to 600 lbs (12 kg/mm) with the 22 mm adj rear stabiliser bar. For Bridgestones or Dunlops we would probably end up with a bit more. All the race team cars use the same diameter & length springs and we have pairs in 50 lb increments from 100 lbs to 1100 lbs, and even some in 25 lb increments, so we can, and do, juggle them around heaps. As well as adjustable stabiliser bars, we also have adjustable torque split, so setting up a GTR can be a bit mind numbing at times. The data logger is an expensive necessity. Hope that helps

Repco, Performance Wholesale, Rocket Industries, Auto One, Auto Pro, Auto Barn. PS; we use Clevite from Performance Wholesale

I agree with Meg (AGAIN !) an RB25DET gearbox is the go.

KPH-------Trust-----HKS--------Diff 80----------50--------60--------20% 95----------80--------90--------13% 110--------113-------140--------24% 125--------160-------220--------38% 140--------240-------280--------17% 155--------307-------298--------(3%) 170--------320-------319--------0% 185--------324-------320--------(1%) 195--------324-------321--------(1%) Average---213--------228--------7% Am I reading this table right? The 2530's have 38% more power at 125 kph than the Trust's and their average is 7% (15 rwkw) higher?

I agree with Meg, sounds like the usual R33 GTST boost cut, ECU ignition retard and fuel richen protection mapping.

Hi Steve, I don't use progressive springs on the race cars, we use stacked coils. The rear main springs are 250 lbs (4.5) and the flat wire helpers are 125 lbs (2.25). It is not necessary to run stacked coils on the front. If you find the 8's (450 lbs) are OK on the rear then 11's (620 lbs) or 12's (675 lbs) would be the go on the front, as that suites the GTST weight distribution. I don't understand your expression of "tight" though. A 27 mm adjustable stabiliser bar on the front of a GTST gives almost zero roll on the hardest setting. Ditto a 24 mm adjustable stabiliser bar at the rear on the hardest setting. The only roll you feel is the compression in the sidewalls of the outside tyres. With 8 mm of anti dive on the front radius rods there is very little dive under brakes. In fact any less weight transfer and the braking distances increase. This is pretty much the same for the rear anti squat, any more than 12 mm of sub frame angle and the rear tyres lack traction due to the lower weight transfer. We run a static 100 mm ground clearance under the front splitter and it never touches the track (well OK, over the ripple strips it does). As previously posted, that is with 450 lbs in the front and 250 lbs in the rear. That is not very much suspension travel for a road car, where I would usually aim at 150 mm to 180 mm as a minimum. Otherwise you are severely compromising the life of the chassis, with torsional stress fractures and cracks at suspension mounting points. On one of the smoothest circuits around (Philip Island) any more spring rate than that and we have braking, power down and turn in problems. I simply can not see how a road GTST would be faster (ie; handle better) with higher spring rates than that using R tyres. As for brands, we use Whiteline, if I order a 450 lb spring then I get a 450 lb spring, as confirmed on my spring rate tester. They are parrallel, top & bottom and sides. They are designed for 40 million, full travel cycles so their lifing is what I would expect. I don't know that there is anything else I could want for the price. Maybe they aren't as shiny as some other brands, but that is of no concern to me. Whiteline don't carry every size in stock and, if for some reason I can't wait for them to be made, I pay twice the price and buy a pair of Eibachs. Hope that makes some sense PS; Other readers should note that these rates are for a GTST (2wd) at 1,245 kgs and not a GTR (4wd) at 1,610 kgs. Plus this is using R type (street legal radial) tyres, not (crossply or radial) slicks.

We have an RB31DET (RB30/26) in a R32 GTST, fits no problems, there is still a Nismo strut brace in between the engine and the bonnet (which is a GTR one). The part number is different. N1 oil pumps are the same dimensions as standard RB26 oil pumps, they flow the same amount of oil, the only difference is the pressure relief valve spring in the N1 pump is a higher rate. So they relieve at higher oil pressures. PM me if the part number is of any use (ie; he still has the original box).

Can't really answer that question without more info; What is your power target? What are you going to use the car for? What other mods do you have? Planned to have?

OooH, I should add, as long as your turbo is capable of providing the airflow. No so much 256's, I have tried 264's, but keep in mind it is the extra lift that makes the difference, and you need valve springs to match. The 264's gave another 15 rwkw max power, but the usuable rpm range went up the scale. So we had to use 5,000 to 8,500 rpm to get good average power. This is not good rpm for a standard internals RB20DET with some k's on it. The GTR cams are a good cheap and easy upgrade, it gets more expensive and risky the further you go.

Hi Steve, you already know what we run on GTST's, 400 to 450 lbs on the front and 190 to 250 lbs on the rear. You can't really compare the spring rates for a Silvia and a Skyline at the front, as the Silvia is a MacPherson Strut and the Skyline is double wish bone. There are motion and leverage ratios to be taken into account when looking at the spring rate at the tyre which is the only place that matters. We use a lot of anti roll (big adjustable, stabiliser bars) plus anti dive and anti squat geometry. The shocks have a lot of low frequency compression valving which limits the dive, squat and roll as well. We don't run that sort of spring rate for comfort, we run them because it is faster on R tyres.

Earls at Silverwater, Martin is the man

Hi MrSnub, can you please let me know the part number as there are quite a few Bosch wide band lambda sensors.

Depends on engine condition and tuning, around 20 to 25 rwkw average power increase from 4,000 rpm to 7,500 rpm, boost about 5% earlier the rpm range. More power off boost as well, plus a nice little lump to the idle. and more growl as the rpm builds. Shoot, I do it just for the sound, the extra power is a bonus.

My suggestion follow your questions............ 1) i want to use r32 N1 oil pump, do i have to fit the jun or tomie crank colett thing? No 2) i understand the gtr sump doesnt fit straight on any ideas on what has to be done apparently a 10mm spacer girdle has to be made? Is it just a spacer, what has to be done about the bolts that are studs with nut on the like around the diff o the rb26 sump???? If it is just a spacer will 6mm be enough??? Not that easy, I suggest you talk to RIPS about buying their kit. 3) it 750 hp safe and what revs can i make.. i want at least 7500rpm-8000rpm (due to the cams i have already), sub zero say its cool for 8500+, not sure bout that... i will be going the best assembly i can ie. crack testing, o ringing, cross drilled and balnced crank.. do you think its all possible... No problems with 7,500 rpm. 4) apparently my bonnet wont fit on due to the extra 30mm from the rb30, anyone know for sure... can i modify the engine mounts to get it sitting back down???? i really dont want to cut holes will it fit with the cam cover left off??? this is on a r32 I know nothing about Silvias, so can't help with this one, sorry. 5) what water pump pulley should i go rb26 or rb30 as they are different sizes, i assume the rb26 one is bigger due to more revs?? RB26 6) sk whats your opinion on scat h beam rods i have heard they are the go??? We use Carrillo Hope that helps

Ooops! $1,300 won't cover the fitting and tuning costs, regardless what hard parts you buy.

Hi bbenny, I don't know any tuner "decent" enough to tune past 5.1 volts on the RB20/25DET AFM with a standard ECU and an SAFC. The SAFC bends the input signals to the ecu but I don't care how clever they are, the tuner can't get past the basic logic of the ecu. This is of course not the case with aftermarket ecus' where we can program the throttle position and rpm to cover for the afm voltage being at 5.1 volts for long periods. Keep in mind that tuning an RB20 to run a Z32AFM with an SAFC is not a simple task. You will need a "decent" tuner for that.