Sydneykid

Word of warning, TE37's are forged and anodised, not rolled and painted like a cast rim.

Hioosham, you should read this thread..... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=41163 As HSVKLR said..........................

Hi guys, this is the turbonetics price list for 60-1 models, check out their web site for more details.............. www.turbonetics.com PART # DESCRIPTION PRICE 60-1 Hi-Fi TURBOCHARGERS & CARTRIDGES HA-CHRA 60-1 Hi-Fi CHRA ASSY. $579.00 HA-TURBO 60-1 Hi-Fi TURBO ASSY. $832.00 HB-CHRA 60-1 Hi-Fi CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT $785.00 HB-TURBO 60-1 Hi-Fi TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT $1,091.00 HC-CHRA 60-1 Hi-Fi CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT - BALL BRG. $1,186.00 HC-TURBO 60-1 Hi-Fi TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT - BALL BRG. $1,493.00 60-1 TURBOCHARGERS & CARTRIDGES HE-CHRA 60-1 CHRA ASSY. $ 594.00 HE-TURBO 60-1 TURBO ASSY. $919.00 HF-CHRA 60-1 CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT $853.00 HF-TURBO 60-1 TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT $1,178.00 HG-CHRA 60-1 CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT W/Q-TRIM $1,062.00 HG-TURBO 60-1 TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT W/Q-TRIM $1,534.00 HJ-CHRA 60-1 CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT - BALL BRG. $1,254.00 HJ-TURBO 60-1 TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT - BALL BRG. $1,579.00 HK-CHRA 60-1 CHRA ASSY. BIG SHAFT W/Q-TRIM - BALL BRG. $1,462.00 HK-TURBO 60-1 TURBO ASSY. BIG SHAFT W/Q-TRIM - BALL BRG. $1,935.00

Both have; *the same spec turbo *GTR intercoolers *one has a HKS POD filter, the other a Pipercross panel *exhausts are different brands and the R33 is 3" while the R34 is 3.5" *no adj pulley on the R34 (we found no average power gain from fitting it) *both have Power FC's *the R34 has a PFC boost control kit, the R33 has an Autospeed twin Norgren valve based boost controller The R34 (with cams) makes more power EVERYWHERE than the R33, on or off boost , it makes boost earlier, has higher average power and higher max power. So it is certainly more "responsive" in my opinion. It is worth noting that the R34 RB25DET has solid lifters, so it uses the Tomei 260 degree Poncams. With hydraulic lifters (as in R33) they recommend using 256 degrees. Hope that answered your questions.

Was it sooner or later?

Hi Matt, this is a mixture of comments and questions.... A standard R33 GTST puts out 120-125 rwkw on our dyno, we have had about 20 of them now and that's about the average (and applies to over 80% of the time). With RAWS compliancing we are seeing more and more stock standard cars. Your car had and made 166 rwkw (ie; 41-46 rwkw more). Based on my experiences, I don't think so! :headspin: More like 146 rwkw I would say. Then makes another 37 rwkw (up to 203 rwkw).The best I have seen out of that upgrade is 25 rwkw accompanied by a small increase in boost, about 1-2 psi. So when you say stock boost? Where is that measured? On what gauge? Final comment is, I have yet to see an R33 RB25DET make 200 + rwkw without some form of A/F ratio correction (SAFC or PFC etc) and a boost increase, with 10 to 12 psi being the normal level. For your upgrade level I would expect 170 to 175 rwkw. The A/F ratio correction usually yields around 10 to 15 rwkw and the boost increase a similar 10 to 15 rwkw increase. Thus 200 rwkw is a common goal with a standard turbo whilst maintaining some life. :freak: It would help a great deal if you could post the dyno graphs, there are generally a lot of clues contained therein. :aroused: Hope that all makes some sense

I had this really long response in mind, but I think this will surfice........... You went up 3 sizes in turbine and cover and went to an external wastegate and you got the result I would expect, 30% more power and 30% more lag. I believe that this is not an example of HKS having better R&D, it is an example of someone choosing a turbo that better suites their requirements.

Gt3040

Hi guys, I have already replied to GTR32 in a PM, but I was discussing this with the race team guys at EC on the weekend and they had a good chuckle over it. We all reckon 256 degrees is very mild, in fact we stood around the R34 GTT (that has these cams in it) and a standard cammed R33 GTST and no one could pick the difference at idle. At 4,000 + rpm it was a different story though.

The Whiteline agent in Perth was Westshock last time I was there. Otherwise, have a look at; www.whiteline.com.au I think there is a list of agents and fitters there.

Hi JXL, my suggestions follow; That's simply not true :bs!: How can softer springs ruin shocks, like all hydrualic devices shocks are velocity sensitive, they increase restriction (damping) with increased speed of movement. So when you put softer springs in, the rebound velocity goes down and the shock compensates. This results in less wear on the shock rebound valving, not more. :headspin: Equally, simply not true. :Oops: In fact exactly the opposite, softer spring rate = more traction, particularly on not so smooth roads. My suggestion and I have done this hundreds of times, is to lower the spring rate. We never go over 200 lbs in the rear, that would be where I would start. You may find the front is OK. If not, then 350 lbs is a good match for the 200 lbs in the rear. Total cost would be less than half your budget. I have given this advice to a number of people on this forum, most find the improvement very cost effective. if you still feel the shocks are too harsh, then you can change them later on but still keep the springs. Konis or Bilsteins would b my recommendation. You can then sell the original springs and shocks as a set. Net cost would still be less than your $1K budget. :aroused: Hope that helps

Have a read of this thread, it is full of peoples experiences with different brands of springs and shocks http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=38315 As TT said it is pretty rare to see an R32 come in with standard suspesnion on it, it may pay to wait until you know what you have got before you buy anything. Research is good though.

Hi oossham, you need to think about labour and confirm the costs. In order to change the springs, the shocks have be removed, new springs placed on them and then put back in the car. When you buy new shocks this has to be done all over again. Add up the costs and you will find labour is 50% of the cost. If you don't duplicate this, then you save a fair bit of money. My suggestion (for what it's worth) save up and get them both done at once.

You rang? :burnout: I hardly ever run either the front or rear bar on full hard on the GTST. It has 27 mm front and 24 mm rear adjustable bars, they are track versions, so both have 3 holes each side, thus 5 steps of adjustment. The road versions generally have 2 holes, so 3 steps of adjustment. It's fairly light (for a Skyline) at 1,245 kgs and has 400 to 450 lb springs in the front and 200 to 250 lbs in the rear, depending on what circuit. It runs 2.5 to 4 degrees negative camber on the front and 1 to 2 degrees negative on the rear. It has 8 + degrees caster and zero toe on the front and zero toe (sometimes slight toe in) on the rear and no HICAS (of course) As for settings, well they change a lot, from day to day, from circuit to circuit. The front is usually on 2 or 3 (I call hardest 5) and the rear on 1 or 2 (obviously softest I call 1). Generally I don't change the front bar settings much, I use the rear to balance out the understeer. Stiffer for less understeer, but not so far as to end up with excessive power oversteer, it really slows the lap times. Fine tuning is really down to personal taste, I like a little understeer in the GTST because it has plenty of power oversteer just a throttle push away. Hope that helps PS; Remember that the HICAS is programmed to try and get the car to understeer under all circumstances. So removing it is highly recommended if you do any track work.

I agree with Roy, in Melbourne, Centreline or Traction Tyres would be my choice for fitters and aligners using Whiteline bushes

Shoot, why not save yourself some money and just leave the springs out all together. Sit it on the bump stops, it will be low then. Won't go round corners or accelerated due to lack of traction, loose about 8 rwkw through excessive driveshaft angles, won't stop, chassis will crack around the suspension mounts, can't listen to tunes 'cause the CD will skip all the time and there is plenty of proof that says "low is slow" etc. But hey, it'll look good. Seriously, take a look here, there are plenty of tips on what to do with skyline suspension including recommended heights; www.whiteline.com.au

Time for some decent suspension then?

Hi Sato GTS, I have a couple of questions Since HKS Turbos are made by Garrett and GCG (and others) use Garrett turbos and Garrett parts in their upgrades. If they are both Garrett (one branded HKS and the other supplied by GCG), can you please expalin to me how HKS turbos are "better quality"? Try 09 and quite a few other sub 10 sec Skylines use Garrett turbo's from GCG, please explain why you think you are going to get "better performance" than that from a HKS branded turbo? It's your money and you can spend it how you like. But I'm not going to "waste my money" on a fancy box and a brand name unless I know all the facts. PS; Just to complete the story; Apexi Turbos are made by IHI Blitz Turbos are made by KKK Trust Turbos are made by Mitsubishi

I have yet to see a hi flow without a bigger wastegate, ours was 5 mm bigger in diameter. That's a good result, can you please tell me more? I am really interested in stuff like boost comparison, manifold differences, HKS turbo specs, internal or external wastegate and anything else you can think of. I am here to learn like everyone else and this sounds interesting.

He's wearing them, waste not, want not. :throwup:

Hi, it's the usual RB settings, +2 on the inlet and -4 on the exhaust. Ours didn't like that much on the exhaust, we ended up around -3. Sure you can, just do one power run with both cams at zero.

You know you want to do it all at once, you just want us to give you an excuse. OK here goes...... Correcting/optimising the camshaft timing will improve the average power (10 maybe 15 rwkw) so that it doesn't drop off boost on gearchanges = faster and nicer car to drive. Better throttle response and, as a bonus, maybe 10 rwkw max power increase. I have done one car, not ours, that made 18 rwkw more max power and 25 rwkw more average from 5,500 to 8,500 rpm after fitting the adj pulleys. But it took a fair retune to get it there, ignition and fuel where all over the place (perfect before cams and pulleys). It also had a big Turbonetics turbo on it, so it had the airflow capacity. Better balance the books here, we also put and adj exhaust camshaft pulley on an R34 GTT expecting to get more out of the cams (not GTR). Best position was zero, so we took it off and sold it. A $50 (and 1 hours work) experiment well spent I'd say. If they don't do anything, they are easy to sell. How was that, convinced?

Great to see it running Chris, it looks like it has a little wastegate leak (up to 6,000 rpm). Until the airlfow gets so high (over 6,000 rpm) then the little leak doesn't matter. It should get to 18 psi before 5,000 rpm I would have thought, that 6 or 7 psi will make a huge difference to the curve.

HiOOSHAM, before I get into answering your questions a few quick explanations. The term "Coil Overs" usually means not only are the coils mounted over (around) the shocks, but they are height adjustable as well. This is achieved via the lower spring seat which sits on a thread on the shock. You wind it up to raise the car and wind it down to lower it. 1 - Is it a good option to go for Lowered springs and shox, instead of coilovers If you don't want to adjust the height, then there is no other difference. There are good and bad coil overs just the same as there are good and bad shock and springs. 2 - Can I just get lowered springs for the car and keep the same shocks Not if you want a good result handling wise, it will look OK though. Shocks have a life (they wear out), most need replacing at around 60K's. If your car has done more than 60k's then it probably needs new shocks anyway. 3 - If I take option 2 can I always just get a matched lowered shock for the lowerd springs I purchased ? Yep, again there are good matches and mismatches 4 - If a spring fits over the shock doesnt this make it a Coil over? (I understood a coilover was a spring that went over the shock??) Refer above 5 - Just by looking at my springs and shocks, it looks as if the spring is going over the shock, so does this mean I have coilovers, or just standard spring and shocks combination? No adjustable lower spring seat = normal struts Adjustable lower spring seat = coil overs 6.Thanks guys, I know I may seem a bit "blonde" about the questions, but there are just so many different options to take and The more I talk to someone, the more confused I get about the differences... Have a read of the articles here (especially the 200SX and Siliva), it will explain most things you ned to know www.whiteline.com.au 7. If anyone knows of a good cheap combo for me, that would be great. I got a price on Pedders sports ryders 4 lowerd springs and 4 lowered shocks for about $1400... Is this as cheap as they come? Also as nasty as they come, try Whiteline much better stuff (better engineering) not much more expensive. Hope that helps

There are lots of things between the turbo and the rear wheels, why do you think it was the wastegate?