Sydneykid

Busky2k is spot on, the only reason there is a variation (15 to 40mm) is because the standard springs do loose height over time. So it is very difficult to give a lowering amount, the Whiteline system of giveng centre of wheel to guard heights for their springs is much more usefull. Just measure yours up, Redline GTR.

The RB26 main bearing cradle is separate from the sump mounting system, same as RB30. The only difference between the RB26 block and the RB30 block at the sump mount is the RB26 block is much wider (mostly at the rear) and has extra threaded holes (further out) to mount the sump, diff and transfer shaft to.

No I really do like R34 N1's, ball bearing, water cooled, good response and some trick Garrett aerodynamics. :angel: We use Iskenderian valve springs. You can do them with the head on, compressed air works a treat. :cooldance

Yep, it's a bitch but it can be done. :spcow:

I edited it, so it works OK now, have another go.

It doesn't matter whether you like strawberries on not, the fact is, if you were a pig, they would be wasted on you. :nowigetit For a rebuilt standard internals RB30 for ~475 bhp you are looking at $1,200 to $1,500. There are plenty of posts (not just from me) giving detailed costings, do a search. RIPS in NZ make and sell a 4wd sump adaptor for retail consumption, they can be found on Skylines Downunder. Gearbox bolts up, as does the clutch. No problem with height using an RB26 head, the RB30 block is not as much taller as the cross over pipe is on an RB20/25. You can have as many turbos as you like. It is a good conversion, not for everyone though. There are plenty around, we have built 11 X RB31's in the last 18 months. The RB30 thread is a good indication of the interest. Hope that helps

Save time doing a search, here is the abreviated version..... I have pretty good success using this formula to determine external wastegate sizes; Airflow in lbs per minute = diameter of wastegate in mm X boost correction factor So let's apply it to your car; 300 rwkw = 480 bhp 480 bhp = 44 lbs of airflow = 44 mm wastegate Now if you want to run 19 psi, then that's the right size wastegate. But we need to apply the boost correction.... My experience indicates that to get 300 rwkw out of a GT3040 you would need to run around 1.5 bar (22psi). So using the formula... 44 / 22 X 19 = 38 mm. For those who haven't read the thread.............. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=43638 Hope that helps

RB26DETT's have an oil restrictor in the top of the block standard. Make sure if it is removed for decking, that it is replaced.

Ahh, the ever beautiful R34 N1's, I reckon you you can let 'em rip. Make the most boost you can out of them and watch the inlet air temp. You will see when they top over on efficiency. The inlet air temps skyrocket rapidly, usually around 1.4 to 1.6 bar depending on intercooler efficiency, ambient temperature etc. Keep it under that and you will live a long and prosperous life, as long as the rest of the tuning is up to scratch of course. Word of warning, it is not always changing cams that mean you have to change valve springs. If you exceed the limit of the spring rate, the inlet valves will stay open because of boost pressure. The result is neither pretty nor cheap to fix. Hope that helps PS, I would like to see the dyno graphs when it is done.

My idea of "support systems" maybe different to yours, mine would include; *cams *valve springs *adj pulleys *porting and combustion chamber work (in lieu of a thick head gasket) *oil cooler *winged, trap doored and baffled sump *clutch with lighter flywheel *oil pump upgrade *oil return from head to sump *ball bearing water cooled turbos (in lieu of plain bearing oil cooled turbos) With your list, plus the above, I see no reason why ~310 awkw would not be achievable for a daily driven car that sees the odd circuit or strip.

Got that leak down test done yet?

Want a counter, GTR turbos 1.1 bar, 5 laps Oran Park, rear turbo ceramic turbine in the cat. : :spew: Some people are lucky, some are not. So roll the dice if you like :Paranoid:

We have several standard internal RB30's that disprove that, the 475 bhp example for a start. It would make a little over 300 rwkw on the chassis dyno, it has never been on one as it was tuned on the engine dyno. We are certainly not alone, check out RIPS standard internals RB30 in their drag car.

As I previously posted we use PWR, half the price of Jap brand names (as usual) and very effective. Plus if it gets damaged (as in rock through core) they can repair it. They have 2 offf the shelf sizes for race GTR's and we use the smaller (thinner) one with a 650 bhp engine. We run ~20 minute races and in up to 40 degree ambient temperatures. So I don't think you need to worry about their cooling ability. Just in case it is important to you, they have a nice red PWR emblazoned accross the core. :aroused: So I can't hink of any reason why I would buy anything else.

Yep it's not easy, the diameter (50 mm versus 62 mm) and the extra length (110 mm versus 130 mm) makes it a tricky fit. Our race team fabricator has a design of bracket/adaptor that works pretty well. He made the original up because we were worried about the extra weight, the 044 weighs a bit over twice what the standard pump does (550g versus 1250g). Next time we do one, I will take some photos.

That seems to be the problem with aftermarket ecu's in autos, the gearchange quality suffers. That's why I am going with the less than perfect solution of an SAFC.

:uh-huh: We have 2 race cars with CAMS "Rally Rego", this means that they can be driven on the road. We have to keep a log of where they have been and why. They do have normal rego labels, green slips, number plates etc but the rego papers are marked CAMS Rally Car. This is so they can compete in events run on public roads, Targa Tas for example. There is quite a bit of crap that you have to go though as well as being CAMS licenced. Maybe this car is similar :ghost:

Hi Dean, is that R32 GTST or R33 GTST?

Never done a standard internals RB30 with an RB26 head, sort of like feeding strawberries to cops. Have done a standard internals RB30 with an RB25DE head, it made 475 bhp on the engine dyno. It's still going strong after 4 years. The average power absolutely kills an RB25 or RB26 with the same maximum power. That's what an RB30DET is all about, higher AVERAGE power for less money. :aroused:

QUOTE () how much do u reckon im lookin at? after this im done no more money to the engine, unless it has to be done, and things always need to be done Pretty much cheaper to buy and tune a Power FC and get it over and done with.

And that is with a STANDARD fuel pump and a STANDARD fuel pressure regulator running STANDARD fuel pressure? :angel:

Sounds like fuel is OK and ignition is OK, so it is compression. Get a leak down test done.

The rule of thumb for water temperature is that maximum efficiency (therefore maximum power) is attained at 85 degrees celsius.

Did he leave the spare wheel, tools and jack in? What about the CD's? :jk: You poor buggers, it's the fastest time of the year over here. We have broken 2 lap records in the last month. :Pimp:

QUOTE ()What abot putting s chip in, could that do it?There are limits as to what you can do with the standard ECU, but yep it would work. But you have an R33, they are extremely tricky (ie; expensive) to chip.