Sydneykid

This looks llike the 100% plumb back alternative. It is a little hard to see the PCV pipework, but I suspect that both the inlet and oulet for PCV is plumbed to the can. Certainly the inlet to the turbo is plumbed back, so it would makes sense if the PCV was similarly plumbed back. Why are you still clouded?

$900

Hi guys, next weekend I will be trying a pair of R34 GTR cams in an RB20, well if Mick (ex SubZero) ever sends me the R34GTR top end we will. Interesting to see how they go.

Hi Tebie, what is the best solution for you depends on what your power target is, what mods you are going to make to get there, how much money you want to spend and whether you are going to do it all at once or spread out over time. With this info it is much easier to point you in the right direction. BTW, the standard R32 ECU can be chipped and real time tuned for around $800.

They are very heavy and thus slow down the response of the engine, kinda the reverse of a light flywheel. You get a fricton plate, a pressure plate and a thrust race in the kit. Hope that helps

Standard RB26DETT would be my choice. There is one on my RB31DET, so I guess you could say I have put my money (or faith) where my mouth is.

The ones we use have 4 fittings, 2 inlet, 1 drain (outlet) and 1 filter. There is no reason why you couldn't use a T piece although a Y piece would be better for plumbing.

Aluminium is lighter.

Watch the rust, it can be a problem. :innocent:

My rule of thumb, if it takes 30 minutes with the Commander it takes 10 minutes with the laptop. So time saved is worth it. Plus the laptop display makes it easier to do a quick scan of the maps to look for anything out of range. There are few niceties that you can get at with the datalogit that you can't to with the Commander. Plus I like to lock my maps, that way no one can change them with a Commander. Maybe I should loan you my RB20DET Datalogit, that way you can try it for your self. Pitty you moved to Mexico. :thumbdwn: You don't really want to get into anti lag, do you? We used to replace the turbo once a week with anti lag running, it is hell on the turbine. Plus we used to kill exhaust manifolds and dumps regularly. One manifold melted so much that the turbo drooped and the engine pipe hit the ground. Took ages to work out what was going on. In case you haven't got it, I am not a big fan of anti lag, the maintenance costs are not to be ignored. :spew: Maybe others are not so down on anti lag as me, I am sure they will tell you if that's the case.

When they need it, they come with thrust bearing carriers in the kit, don't they?

I am not a believer in larger throttle bodies on standard plenums, waste of time and money. They are not the limiting restriction (weak link in the chain), it is that simple. When the throttle is closed, the throttle is closed. The problem does not happen when there is some throttle opening. Whether it is larger or smaller in diameter makes no difference. In fact there is an valid argument that the larger volume in the inlet system decreases the throttle response. Thanks for the thanks

Hi Roy, don't you ever sleep? :ghost: One of my famous "rules of thumb", if I change the AFM then the standard ECU is past it. A small upgrade in injectors is OK, but doubling them to 550 cc's is not a SMALL upgrade. You made the right choice technically, relax and get on with it. As to price, ~$800 seems to be the going rate for a real time tune and chip burn on a standard ECU. Trouble is it is ~$800 everytime you make a change. That's why the Power FC was a good choice financially , so relax and get on with it. Next time I am in Mexico for a race meeting it's your

Only if you leave it bouncing off the rev limiter for a long time. An example; We usually gear the race car for 250 kph top speed at Eastern Creek. But if we have a strong southerly (head wind) we gear it for 240 kph, so it accelerates faster. But if the wind changes around to the NE, the car hits the rev limiter in 5th half way down the grandstand. Holding it on the rev limiter until the lift for turn 1 would be very bad with a fuel only rev limiter as it would run lean for a long time. :spew: So an ignition interrupt would be better in that circumstance. On the other hand, if you are using the rev limit as a gear change point, then the microsecond with fuel cut is not a problem. That's why top line ecu's have 2 types of rev limiter. Hope that helps

As long as you block off the unused plumbing and fittings. I gotta ask why though? :confused:

Clutch, there is no clutch upgrade on the list and it will need one. You can get the standard ECU tuned in real time on R32's. So if you can't find a Power FC, then it's a good fall back. I haven't had to change the AFM up to 225 rwkw, you may not need to do it. Some engines do, some don't. I have no idea why, I put it down to "engines are different". Hope that helps

It was made by Garret for Nissan, Nissan own the tooling. So it's a "Nissan RB20DET turbo", nothing more, nothing less. They do have balls by the way. A good upgrade is an "Nissan RB25DET turbo", 20 rwkw more at the same boost. They have balls too. If you wan to run 12 psi or more, then upgrade the turbine to a steel one.

Yep that's right, but not all multi plate clutches rattle. Some have anti rattle springs, they are silent just like a single plate. Since there are 4 friction surfaces, they wear in a lot compared to a single plate with 2 friction surfaces. So they need adjusting, otherwise there is not enough movement to dissengage the clutch. Nissans don't have adjustable rods, they use a byspass in the slave cylinder to take up the slack caused by normal wear. Refer below. Unlikely, it is usually all or nothing when it comes to fork movement. No, but I have never done an S14 (or an S13 or an S15) for that matter. There are however a number of different Nissan fork pivots, some are longer than others. You need to choose the right one to position the clutch fork in the right place. It sounds to me like you might have had the wrong fork pivot (too long) and that's why you had to machine the thrust holder. So how to fix it? Well, I would try a longer rod, that will at least eliminate the lack of travel question without removing the gearbox. You could weld a short piece of rod onto the standard rod or find a slightly longer Nissan rod from a different model. You used to be able to buy adjustable rods, do a bit of shopping around. Hope that helps. PS; it is not unusual for R32s' to break the pivot ball, I don't know whether this applies to S14's. You can easily check by looking in the fork hole with a torch.

Hi Trust33, the iaa needs filtered air. Plus I think there is a boost issue as well. But I am not sure on that one, I would have to read up on it some more. As for the BOV, it is a RETURN to idle problem, not an IDLE problem itself. If you have an open to atmosphere BOV, then when you get of the throttle quickly after a burst of accelleration, the engine stutters with the rich mixture, most simply stall. You can tune around this, but it takes some time and is quite fiddly. Some engines it just doesn't work on at all.

On the race cars we run open to atmosphere. We do run 2 pipes to the catch can and remove the joiner (standard) pipe between the cam covers. It's not really necessary on a road or combo car though, the one pipe does the job OK. Hope that helps

Shoot you guys are sensitive, it was a joke :jk: Let me say it here, you can repeat it all you like, tell everyone! Tell the whole world if you like. I am not a good tuner, there are plenty better than me. Shoot I personally know a 100. I make no claims on my own ability, I am far (very far) from being Australia's #1. I don't own a retail workshop or do any retail work, I have no need to beat my chest or claim anything. I am so slow with the spanners that the guys laugh at me. :wassup: I go to race meetings all over Australia, 30 or so per year, drag combat, nationals, dyno shootouts etc etc. I have a stopwatch (or 2), I can use them OK and I can tell a fast car from a slow car. The measurement of FAST is distance over time, notice no mention of hp (or kw's) in that equation. So guys, get that chip off your shoulder, take a joke for what it is. PS; just in case you think I have gone soft, what's with the it is my understanding that Qld is well past WA. So that makes you guys #4, but since Canbraaaaaa is the "capital" and far from #1, maybe it's OK.Oooops I better hoist the :jk: flag just in case.

Yes, definitely, absolutely, not a problem, all RB water pumps are interchangeable, go for it, let 'er rip, whack it on, bolts straight up etc etc. You need to be aware that while they fit, there are slight differences in performance. The RB20DE pump flows slightly less water at all RPM's (smallest engine, needs less cooling). The RB26DETT pump flows slightly less water at high rpm (stops cavitation). The RB26DETT N1 pump actually flows less than the standard pump for sustained high rpm use (racing). :idea: The RB30E and RB30ET pumps are not designed for sustained high rpm (over 7,000 rpm), they are SOHC remember. The RB20DET and RB25DET pumps are pretty similar in flow, but the impellers look different. :confused: I think the RB25DE pump is prety much the same as the RB20DE pump but I haven't had them side by side to compare. Hope that helps

Idle control. Bypasses the throttle body Not if you want a stable idle. The usual return to idle problems (stalling) caused by loosing already metered air (AFM). ie; engines run rich as too much fuel is injected. This is standard vented to atmosphere BOV stuff, there are plenty of threads on it. For a 100% road car I would always recommend a plumb back BOV, the performance loss is neglible. For a 100% race car it doesn't matter as much, a bit of extra fuel on the down change is OK. For a combo car you could have a removeable return pipe, but I really couldn't be bothered. For people who like the woosh, well I gues a 50% plumb back BOV is a compromise solution. Hope that helps

The last is 100% plumb back, all of the air goes back into the engine. Some goes via the PCV valve, at times of no boost. When there is boost, it goes back via the inlet system, through the turbo, the intercooler and its pipework. :uh-huh: The idea is the stainless steel wool, helped by the lower velocity in the catch can, catches the oil and removes it from the air before it goes back into the engine. This is the environmentalists favourite :alien: and is the easiest to get engineered.

Sorry for the delay, virus on the laptop :type: This one I call the 50% plumb back, because half of the time (no boost times) the air from the catch can is being sucked into the inlet manifold via the PCV valve; It is not my favourite, because you can still get a bit of oily air into the engine, but since it doesn't go in under boost (the PCV valve is closed then) detonation isn't much of an issue. At least you don't get any oil into the intercooler and its pipework.