Sydneykid

Hi Wild747, how many horsepower will that turbo spec support?

OK SouthernR33, that's the answer I needed, otherwise I am guessing as to what set up you want. There are litteraly 20 different ways to get 260 rwkw max power, but if you want top response as well then the choices are a lot less. We have an R34 GTT that makes 265 rwkw with the following; GTR fuel pump (SAU forum) 3.5" exhaust ((from Performance Metalcraft) HKS POD with heat shielding and large CAI (SAU forum and self made) R33 GTR standard intercooler (SAU forum) RB25DET turbo with ball bearing hi flow (by GCG) Split dump and engine pipe combo (from Performance Metalcraft) Hi flow cat (SAU forum) Power FC with boost control kit (Nengun) Tomei Poncams 256 @ 9.2 mm (Nengun) Nismo fuel pressure regulator (Nengun) Tomei Injectors (Nengun) None of the above is any use unless you can get the power down, so; OS Giken twin plate clutch (SAU forum) Plus it has to be reliable; Oil cooler and remote filter (Earls) It has more power EVERYWHERE than standard, so it has awesome average power. It gets driven everyday, does some circuit work and the odd drag strip (11.9@120 mph) and has been for almost 2 years. Hope that helps

If you like it there Ferni, and it doesn't bottom out or rub its tummy where you drive, them it's OK. Just get some camber adjusters. The rear is the worst offender, if you do any track work the front is OK at 2.5, but the rear is never OK at 2.

Exactly the same for a RB26DETT, or an RB20DET or an RB25DET or an RB31DET (in my case). But keep in mind there is no "best way", you choose whichever suites your requirements. I call the choices ; 1. 100% plumb back 2. 50% plumb back 3. Zero% plumb back Anyway, more when the picture is up.

I wish! :aroused: It is handy to have a local technical department when you have a lubricant issue. :confused:

I would add a couple of things to your list; 1. hi flow cat 2. tuning (for power), tuning (for response), tuning (for reliability) Plus I wouldn't be running a bare POD, it really needs a heat shield and a big ambient air feed. You may find it a better overall packege with a mild camshaft upgrade, ie; 264 @ 9.5 mm. Hope that helps

Do you care about the average power and the response? Or is 260 rwkw max power all that matters?

Hi Ferni, the 10 mm too low is resulting in too much neg camber, as usual the rear is the worst offender. For a road car we never got over 1.5 degrees negative on the front and 1 degree negative on the rear. The 2.5 negative on the front is OK if you do some track work, with 1.5 degrees negative on the rear. A drag car gets best traction at zero camber on the rear, in fact a little positive is not unususal. Time for a camber kit if you don't already have one. Hope that helps

Castrol Formula R synthetic, 10W60 in the engine. Castrol Syntrax, 75W90 in the gearbox Castrol Transmax Z in the transfer case Castrol SAF-SA, in the differentials Castrol Anti Freeze Ati Boil in the radiator Castrol PS Fluid in the Power Steering Boring aren't we? :Pimp2:

In my opinion, DOHC 4 valve engines are not happy bed fellows with superchargers. The engine's broad rpm range does not suite the relatively narrow rpm range that a supercharger works efficienctly over. ie superchargers don't have wastegates.

Centreline are top line as well.

Hi Riceline, in your picture you cut off the 4th connection, the one that goes to the PCV valve on the plenum. It is on the cam cover juts down from the blue one in your picture. If you open up the angle of the photo a bit so we can see the inlet plenum, then I can draw on your picture the choices you have for plumbing up a catch can. Yes that's right you have CHOICES, there is not a wrong and a right.

Standard is 375/380 mm and optimum (in my opinion) is 345-350 mm.

Hi riceline, I think your question is "can I use an RB25DE fuel rail on an RB25DET inlet manifold", is that right? Sorry I can't really help, I have used an RB25DE fuel rail but it was on an RB25DE top end (including inlet manifold). The Series V RX7 Turbo injectors fitted up to the fuel rail OK, the o'rings and injector wiring harness plugs where different though.

Yep

www.earls.com.au

The MagMan does our race wheels, he is at Bankstown. Good job and not too expensive.

Brand?

Yep Duncan, spot on, the A032's are not quite as fast. Their advantage is they are useable in all conditons, the RE540's and D98's are only OK in the dry. So it really costs three times as much to run them as you have to have a set of wet tyres on rims as well. Not that wet is much of an issue in Sydney the last 12 months, although it peeed down at Sandown and Philip Island. :boohoo: The bottom line for me is the total cost of them is the same as running full slicks that last longer and are much faster. So although, not perfect, the Yoko's are the best compromise for the limited budget. :uh-huh:

Nope RB20's are low enough.

http://www.iskycams.com/

Simple question bbenny, complex answer.......... We ran 1.5 bar for a while at 195 rwkw. Then I fitted the GTR cams, adj pulleys and a hi flow cat (real hi flow) and it now makes 225 rwkw at 1.3 bar. Since boost is a measure of resistance, and by fitting longer duration, higher lift cams I have reduced the restriction, this is not surprising.

Hi Duncan you left out Yokohama's, we use A032R's. Similar pricing to the Dunlops and Bridgestones, but they have slightly more tread pattern so you can use them in wet or dry. Gordie sells them too.

Sorry dAVE, too slow responding, I found another one. Please cancel my order, PM sent to confirm.

PM sent; 21-06-2004 Q45 AFM 05:36 PM dAVE MK Received OK?