Sydneykid

Nah, it's just a tension relief thing. I am a bit stressed, we have 6 engines in pieces, 2 gearboxes it bits and 1 rear axle (inc diff) half finished. They are all waiting on SOMEONE to supply the stuff they promised weeks ago, stuff that has already been paid for in most cases. :headshot: Time for a drink, I think :alcoholic PS; How's the new engine coming along?

We have found no noticeable difference between any of the RB25 turbos as far as boost, power or breakage is concerned. The compressor being plastic is a non isssue, it's the ceramic turbine that matters. And they all have it. :chop:

I'm sorry, I appologise up front to anyone who thinks this post is about them personally, it's not. OK! I simply don't understand why anyone would build a Skyline that can't be driven to its potential because "things might break". It makes no sense, why bother? :confused: Better to have less power that you can actually use, than more power that you can't. Better to build the WHOLE car to go fast, not just the engine. A 600 bhp engine is wasted in a 400 bhp chassis, with 200 bhp tyres and 150 bhp suspension. I am not going to go near the subject of a 100 bhp driver. :headspin: Maybe it's just me, but a car is a PACKAGE and only as good as its weakest link. It doesn't matter how strong its strongest link is, the weak link will always be its downfall. :spew: It won't do the time if the tyres are crap, it won't do the time if the driver is not up to it, it won't make the speed if the gearbox or clutch dies, if the engine power band does not match the gearbox ratios, slow it is going to be, slower than it should be. :birdie: End of rant :crazy:

I didn't say use the road service, just join up to get free legals, cheap towing and discounts for members.

Hi, I read the "long post" (it's pretty short actually) and I can't see where it says what you are going to use the car for. Is it a road car, a drag car, a circuit car, a dyno car, a demo car or a combo of those? Because it makes a difference to the spec that I would suggest.

Hi Clint, dual pass cross flow radiators are a bugger for air locks, make sure you bleed it properly.

As Timd said, block it or leave it.

Hi guys, I will try and answer your questions in one go; The spec was; 264 @ ~9.5 mm cams (I think they were Jun, I didn't fit them) Adj Cam pulleys (they were definitely Jun) Split dumps and 2.5" engine pipes (my design) 3.5" exhaust (my design) 2 X standard GTR cats (I had them) Sard 650 cc injectors (standard ones ran out at 290 rwkw) Nismo fuel pressure regulator (not really required, but the standard one was screwed) Bosch 044 fuel pump in tank Power FC with boost control kit 2 X Pipercross POD's with heat shield and large ambient air induction (my design) 2 X RB20 AFM's (I had them too) OS Giken twin plate clutcch (with flywheel) Greddy 600 X 300 X 100 intercooler (Nengun) Alloy I/C pipework (my design) Oil cooler and remote filter (Earls) Winged, doored and baffled sump (my design) Tuning, tuning, tuning (not by me) Hope that answered your questions

Same It's sorta like adj stabiliser bars, you can dial out power oversteer by adding more front bias. Or for understeer, vice versa. Different circuits have different settings as do different conditions, wet, dry, slippery, hot, cold etc. Or races are not long enough (20 minutes) for fuel load to get too exciting. :wassup: I only use 3 settings out of the seven that the controller has, I never use the bottom 2 (rear bias) or the top 2 (front bias). We used to have a controller that had 2 circuits, one for the amount of bias and the other for rate of change. By the time I add in stabiliser bar adj, spring rate changes and adj shocks, my head aches thinking about what to change. :confused: So I keep it simple, the "real" driver uses more. Hope that helps some more

You don't have to be insured with NRMA to use their services, just be a member of the Road Service, probably cheaper than paying a solicitor.

The old solid versus hydraulics question, there's a blast from the Chevy past. :Bang: When the follower fills with oil it is SOLID, not compressible, so the effect on the valve (open and close) is exactly the same. The only real difference occurs as the oil is moving into and out of the follower, simplistically, when the valve is closed. The "filling up with oil rapidly enough" is worth noting as this is why the rpm limit for hydraulic followers is lower than for solids. They, what is called colloquially called, pump down ie; the oil level gradually falls as it can't get in fast enough to hold the follower at full extension. Thus the clearances get large and the follower start to knock. So, provided the followers don't leak oil pressure and fill up with oil rapidly enough, then there is basically no difference between a current generation of hydraulic follower and a solid follower. This of course was not the case with the Chevy, the lifters leaked, the oil was slow moving, the oil itself was not so good. So "hydraulic" cams had softer ramp rates than "solid" cams to allow time for the oil to flow. :dump: Time has moved on and the dinosaurs are gone, well from my garage anyway.

No, the boost pressure will escape into the cam cover. :headspin:

Hi Moanie, were the defects EXACTLY the same?

Hi Eav001, Are you an NRMA member? If so they have legal advice as well. Plus your insurance company may well be interested because if you are charged they have to pay. If someone else is charged then their insurance compay has to pay. As for evidence, take plenty of pictures of the car and get an opinion as to the height of the rear when struck, this will proove you were braking (nose down, tail up) at the time. NRMA Technical can help on this one. If you can prove you were already braking when hit then, you get off. Because no one can prove that you would have hit the person in front unless you had been hit yourself. My suggestion would be to get a solicitor and fight it, as it will stay on your record FOREVER. Every time you go to court the Police Prosecutor will bring it up, even 20 years later they will dig it up and use it against you. It will cost more to fight than just pay and shut up, maybe you can share or offload the costs with your insurance company. Hope that helps

Hi ferni, the G sensors in the ATTESA system are not "on" or "off" type sensors. They are calibrated for increasing or decreasing G force as well as the obsolute value. So if you are going down hill at 100 kph and put your foot down in 5th in a GTR with 200 rwkw, the result will be different G force readings to a GTR with 300 rwkw going up hill at 100 kph and putring your foot down in 5th. Since the result is different the readings on the torque split gauge are also different, this is despite the fact that both cars are in 5th gear at 100 kph. You then need to add in the wheel speed differential ie; if the rear wheels are suffering form lack of traction (even slight amounts) this will affect the torque split. This is a simplistic example, by the time you add bumps in the road, how steep the hill is, how long the pedal is to the metal, how quick the pedal is pushed, the turbo spool time, throttle response, suspension tune etc etc the results are highly variable. Plus every car is different. We find an ATTESA controller is essential on the race cars. Hope that helps

I have used R32 GTR, R33 GTR, R33 GTR N1 and very shortly I will be sticking a set of R34 GTR cams in an RB20. I have not noticed much difference between the different models, if any.

That'll be good anyway, as long as you haven't done any power up mods we can look at the auto trans losses compared to manual.

Ohh yeh, we have a Commondoor 5.7L manual ute that usually tows the RX7. So I want to drag it off with the Stagea and the GTST on the trailer. :wassup: No problems, it was a little rough in the auction pictures, but nothing a few hours in the panel shop won't fix. I think I will be keeping the standard springs, just lower it a little with the adj bottom seats on the Konis. If it rolls too much, I will whack on some Whiteline stabiliser bars, that will tune it up. Since its primary purpose is towing and carrying stuff around town, the auto will be great. Like you, I was also thinking of the brake upgrade, a set of GTR 4 spots for the front and 2 spots for the rear may be on the cards. I will wait and see how it is with the standard sliding callipers and some decent pads, it may be OK. First job will be the tow bar though, then drive it around for a week or so to see what it needs. Then I will give it a quick power run on the dyno, just to establish a base line for the later power up's. I will watch your posts with considerable interest.

Only when you have reached the standard AFM's limits, ~300 rwkw. A Q45 is a Nissan Infiniti, 4.5 litre V8, only has 1 X AFM so its a biggy. :aroused: www.infiniti.com Doughboy has some for sale I think, check his trader add in the "for sale" section.

Hi Gary, good to see another Stagea on the go. Mine arrived 5 weeks ago and is still getting complied. Typical Nissan problem with rolling updates, where they use some new model parts at the end of the run of old models. In my Stagea's case that was a rear left hand door, it has the later model intrusion bars and all the other 3 doors have the early model intrusion bars. So it is stuck in no man's land with the beaurocrats at DOTARS. Hopefully it will be sorted out next week. We have a race meeting to go to next weekend and I need the Stagea tow car. I have some plans for our Stagea as I have some good bits coming off the RB20DET in the R32 GTST, as it is getting a new RB31DET; GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25DET turbo Performance Metalcraft split dump, engine pipe and hi flow cat 3" exhaust FMIC and alloy pipework Jamex panel filter and CAI Autospeed (2 valve style) boost controller Since it's an auto, I will have to make do with an SAFC for fuel tuning and no doubt it will need a set of Koni adj shocks, some adj to the caster, decent brake pads and a set of Hollow Type R's in 17 X 8. Not to mention a HR towbar and a big transmission cooler. I am looking forward to seeing what others have in mind for their Stagea's.

The first column is RWKW for 1 X AFM, the secomd column is RWKW for 2 X AFM's, the third column is (engine) bhp for 1 X AFM, the fourth column is (engine) bhp for 2 X AFM's. :idea: Hi Crack, as per the table, 1 X RB26 AFM is good for 149 RWKW. whereas 1 X RB20/25 AFM is good for 226 RWKW.

The first column is RWKW for 1 X AFM, the secomd column is RWKW for 2 X AFM's, the third column is (engine) bhp for 1 X AFM, the fourth column is (engine) bhp for 2 X AFM's. :idea: Hi Crack, as per the table, 1 X RB26 AFM is good for 149 RWKW. whereas 1 X RB20/25 AFM is good for 226 RWKW.

Hi, I have posted this table a few times, but just in case you missed it. Air Flow meters RWKW & Engine BHP ------ ---- OD ---- RWKW ---- RWKW ---- BHP ------ BHP No of AFM's ---- ------- 1 -------- 2 -------- 1 -------- 2 RB26 ------ 65 ------ 149 ------ 299 ------ 271 ------ 474 RB20/25 --- 80 ------ 226 ------ 453 ------ 376 ------ 683 Z32 ------- 80 ------ 255 ------ 511 ------ 415 ------ 763 Q45 ------- 90 ------ 302 ------ 605 ------ 479 ------ 890 Please note that this is only an indication, every engine is different and tuning makes a big difference.

Hi midnightGTR, RB20/25 and Z32 AFM's are all 80 mm OD, that's outside diameter, not ID that's inside diameter. There is no real difference between an RB20 and an RB25 AFM. On the other hand the Z32 AFM is calibrated differently, so at the airflow the RB20/25 AFM shows max voltage, ~5 volts the Z32 afm is only showing ~4 volts. This means when the airlfow gets higher the Z32 can still show voltage increases to the ECU. Q45 (Infinity) AFM's are 90 mm (OD), so they have the same calibration advantage but they are also larger in diameter for less restriction. Hope that helps.

On a leak down test they show 4 to 6% less leakage. You can run a wider ring gap for temperature compensation and not suffer like you do with gapped rings. You can run ~10% less ring tension for lower friction losses. The byproduct is you get longer service life between rebuilds. They are not for everyone though, there are some procedures that you simply have to follow. The first, is set them up exactly as per the instructions, some engine builders find this a very hard thing to do:jk: Plus you have to run them in properly and they don't take kindly to using synthetic oil early in their life, some people find this a very hard thing to do. :headspin: Bottom line, we have tried them back to back on the engine dyno and picked up 18 bhp in a 600 bhp engine.