Sydneykid

That's a very interesting approach, it proves that there is more than one way to skin a cat. Do you have progressive dyno results that you can post? I would really like to understand what makes up the increases.

I have often wondered about that as well. I have seen a single 2530 make 240 rwkw on an RB25DET. Now I know there are some differences between an RB25 2530 and an RB26 2530, but it isn't 70 rwkw worth. HKS rate the RB26 2530 at 310 bhp, so the pair should make 620 bhp, that's 460 kw. Plus other HKS turbo seem a little underrated, I think HKS quote 10% in most cases when pushed. I have never seen a GTR loose more than 60 rwkw (and 85 awkw), so I can't work out why a pair of 2530's wouldn't make ~400 rwkw. So I can only put it down to other factors, like tuning and support stuff. There a couple of guys I have been working with that have 2530's and they are doing all the stuff that I would suggest is necessary to get 400 rwkw. So time will tell if it is possible.

Shannons is half NRMA at $1.2K for $20K. Who was you quote from rs73?

Hi J, That's a good thought, I haven't tried a Unichip in a late model ECU, they are pretty well sealed though. If it can actually be fitted then it should retain the shift logic. The A/F and ignition maps are independant from the auto programming. So it will overide the "tuned" timing at gearchange time.

Hi Ben, that's not quite right. I don't have to totally retune after every mod. If I have done the maps properly I can accomodate a wide range of mild upgrades (FMIC, boost, exhaust POd etc) without doing any retuning. Noting that it is always worthwhile to give it a quick power run after an upgrade and check the a/f ratios, but that costs less than a tank of gas. Plus it enables you to establish a relationship with the tuner. Everybody is human, if I see a person 4 or 5 times I am going to spend a little extra effort, a little extra time to get his car spot on. It might seem wrong, but I can't help it, someone who comes once and I never see again is simply not going to get the same level of "attention". Maybe that's why we don't do any retail work.

I agree there is no such things as "the best" when it comes to pistons. But there is "a best" for my requirements. So if you truly know your requirements you can easily choose. Some examples; I want 22 mm gudgeon pins (standard is 21 mm), this give a larger bearing surface area on the pin for the little end bearing. On a high power engine this spreads the combustion load over a larger area, so less wear and higher power tolerance. I want to use Total Seal Gapless rings, so I need a piston with the right sized ring grooves. I could machine any piston to suite, but that just adds unnecessary cost. I want to be able to set up the compression ratio to wherever I think I need. So the piston crown has to be substantial enough to be machined if necessary. Plus it has to have a piston crown that gives good squish at the same time. I want to choose the bore size, not just have 1 or 2 choices that may or may not suite my requirements. I want consistency, I don't want to have to change the maching process and redo the calcs for every different brand of piston. So I stick to one brand that satisfies me, but most likely not for everyone else.

You have not experienced the absolutely atrocious torsional rigidity then :throwup:

Hi Wilch, R33 GTST's with RB25DET's have really terrible A/F ratios and ignition maps as soon as you do almost anything to them. Sure you can sneak a bit, 20 rwkw here, 15 rwkw there and some people are happy with that. From your posts you indicatee that you were going to change the ECU (along with quite a few other things). So, as soon as I have someone who has made that decison, then my recommendation is to do the ECU upgrade early, just after the exhaust is the go. Maybe it's just my personal experiences, but I have driven a lot of R33 GTST's where the owner has done quite a few mods (exhaust, boost, FMIC, POD, BOV sometime even turbo) and their cars don't drive "nice". They have the flatness at 5,000 rpm, the idle is flakey, they might have 200+ rwkw, but the average power is crap. They hit the std ecu overboost protection regularly. At this stage they don't want to spend $1.5K for what they think will be 20 rwkw. But the improvement in driveability is worth far more than 20 rwkw max power. The average power increase in more like 50 rwkw. So I say, do the ecu early, you won't reget it.

Gotta stop giving speed to the mammals

Thank you Prank. The Stagea owners salute you :grouphug:

How wide are the Autech wheels, I have a couple of sets of 17 X 8's as they are the same as we use on the race cars with 245/45/17's on them. They should fit, OK? :confused: No, definitely not doing my own compliance. The paperwork (and dealing the beauroKraps) would drive me crazy. :headspin: Have you had yours on the dyno yet Michael? I am wondering how much they loose through the auto and 4wd. My target is 200 awkw :burnout: , I have ready to go on; GCG ball bearing hi flow turbo Split dump Hi flow cat 3" exhaust Autospeed (Norgren valves X 2) boost controller Pipercross panel filter CAI Exhaust camshaft pulley Plus ............. Konis (as soon as I work out if they are R33 or R34 or neither) :boinkcar: Front and rear stabilser bars (I think the R33 GTR ones fit). I will design up a HICAS eliminator and get our race team fabricator to machine one up out of billet aluminium (same as we have on the R32's). SAFC from Negun is on its way. Hope the brakes are up to it, if not I will dig up a set of R33 GTR callipers (front and rear) and a set of DBA slotted rotors. Plenty of good pads lying around from the race cars, that should stop it. :aroused: I am getting carried away, aren't I? :jump:

YES NO Depending on the type of HICAS removal, you will have to do that anyway I don't know about anyone else, but I have posted at least 10 times what has to be done, do a search and you will find them. Hope that helps

Sorry I personally don't agree, I have yet to see one single case of damaged bearings in a GTR as a result of the oil itself failing. They have all been oil surge and resulting starvation caused. I don't care what oil you use, if you don't baffle the sump and go on a circuit, you are at RISK.

I'll bet he started at cylinder #1 and the engine cooled down by the time he got to #4. :headspin: Or the battery ran down a bit from the cranking

Almost right, but You have to add the combustion chamber volume to the cylinder volume to calculate the compression ratio, so......... 499.7 + 66 = ~566 566 / 66 = 8.5 to 1 Other slight correction, a standard head gasket is ~1 mm thick (6cc's at 86.5 mm bore). So the correct calc is.......... 499.7 + 68 = ~568 56 / 68 = 8.4 to 1 Hope that helps

Yep, found a white one the same as the other 3, except the car is blue. In trying to find an upside for spending $1K for no good reason, the only one I can find is gives me an excuse to fix up a few of the little scatches and bumps a 7 year old car picks up. While the blue paint is in the gun, so to speak. :uh-huh: Thanks to DOTARS I have had to replace a rear door with stronger intrusion bars that complies to the later (tougher) standard, with a door that complies to earlier (less tough) standards. I don't know about you, but that makes absolutely no sense to me. :confused: Enough bad news, the good news is it is on the truck and will be here early next week.

As previously posted, personally I wouldn't stress over the absolute number, it's the comparison that's important. The manufacturer quoted compression test relies on the engine being up to operating temperature. Did you do it when the engine was hot? Not reasonably warm, or even worse, stone cold so you didn't burn your hands when removing the spark plugs. It has to be at operating temperature, that's 80c or above or halfway on your std temp gauge. Secondly it is done with zero resistance, no dragging clutch, no tight fan belt, no air con compressor etc etc. No electrical load, this means you can't have the radio on while doing the test. Thirdly it is done with a brand new battery and starter motor. All this means a faster rotation speed during the compression test. I have personally never achieved factory compression in any car I have tested. So unless you unbelievably unlucky and all cylinders have worn exactly the same amount, the very close results for all 6 should give you confidence.

Some responses not in any order; Shocks in order of my personal preference; 1. Whiteline Group 4 2. Ohlins adjustable (single adjuster) 3. Koni Sport (single adjuster) 4. Bilstein (no adjustment) Don't be put off by the no adjustemtn on the Bilsteins, they have a sophisticated velocity sensitive valve stack. This means they suite a wide range of spring rates without having ot adjust them. They are good for people who don't want (or know) how to tune damper rates. 225/60 OK on 7.5", same size all round is OK. Any strut brace is better than none, Whiteline have them if you want to stick with the same brand. They are also working on a HICAS replacement kit, should be ready soon. Bilsteins "squish springs" :bs!: Hope that helps some more

Hoy, I though maybe you knew of an ECU that worked with the auto that I hadn't heard off. That's why I asked, I don't know everything you know. :headspin: Plus I did say sorry, that I was a bit harsh on you, already. But I will appologise again. I am sorry, I meant nothing more than stopping another urban myth from spreading. :ak47: Plus I keep hearing about aftermarket ecus'; that "work" with autos. But when I chase them down I keep finding stuff like "it revs out a bit more now before it changes", "the change from first to second isn't as smooth" , "it's a bit more jerky" etc etc. To me that means it doesn't work. So I keep looking for the elusive one that truly does work PROPERLY.

No problems, Nick. It is supposed to be on the transporter tomorrow. A few days in the panel shop to touch up the scratches and paint the white door blue. Thank's to the totally illogical DOTARS beaurocrats.

But......... Since it is designed for a manual, the Power FC has no provision for retarding the ignition on gearchanges. In fact it doesn't even know that there are gear changes, since it has no programming to talk/listen to the auto ecu. Unless you lift your foot, this means that you get full power (torque) during the gearchange. This is not good for smooth changes and it is very harsh on the auto. The most wear occurs on the slippage during gearchanges, having full power then is not so good. This is not "friend of a friend" stuff, plus I have tried a number of times to get it to work with quite a few ECU's. Always the same problem, jerky shifts and flaring on the change. We saw a 40 degree increase in gearbox oil temp in a 20 minute drive as a result. Plus it get worse very quickly, over 200 rwkw and I reckon I could kill a gearbox in a week. :wassup: It's not like you plug the PFC in and the engine won't run, that's simply not the case. It runs perfectly fine and can be tuned just the same as a manual. It is the interface to the auto that is the problem. Maybe it's time for some more research, I will be talking to Tillbrooks tomorrow, I might as well ask some deep and meaningful questions.

Are you still running the standard ecu to control the ignition for the gearchanges? We are racing at Malala in late August, maybe try it then?

Excellent, what size wheels and tyres does it have?

Fantastic news, where and when can I have a ride in it?

Nope manual only for Skylines Nope Close, but still has gearshift quality problems and gearbox durability is questionable. Waste of time, they tell you they will, and then when you find they don't, try getting your money back? The only true HIGH powered ones I have seen have "non electronic" autos (Raceglides etc). Yep that's been done a heap of times, no one has a GOOD ecu yet. There are a few that are close, but no cigar. Then why did you tell MR R33 GTST to get an ECU, when there isn't one? He spelled it out in the first sentence of his opening post Sorry, that last one was a bit harsh