Sydneykid

Gcg

As Merlis said, you have hit the dreaded Skyline overboost protection. All is good with PFC fitted and tuned. You will pick up the usual 25 rwkw max power and about 40 rwkw average power. PS; get them to do the dyno in 4th gear next time, makes it easier for my poor brain to work out engine rpm.

Hi Gary, what is the rear like, R32 GTR I heard was pretty close? Did you keep your standard shocks?

Hi guys, I am doing some engineering work for a well know suspension manufacturer and I quickly need some sample standard shocks, no aftermarket ones please. Stuffed ones are OK, they are required only for their dimensions. I only need one of each, it doesn't matter if left or right, the list follows; R32 GTST Front - already have R32 GTST Rear - already have R32 GTR Front - now have R32 GTR Rear - now have R33 GTST Front - R33 GTST Rear - already have R33 GTR Front - R33 GTR Rear - R34 GTT Front - R34 GTT Rear - Stagea Front - already have Stagea Rear - already have I can arrange for them to be picked up anywhere in Sydney. Payback is first access to the new product at a discounted price. PM or reply here is OK.

What happend to the damaged one?

Usually the bearings kark it due to poor servicing, the Jap's are lousy at changing oil. Bearings are not that expensive, but the box is a bitch to pull apart. If the bearings are really stuffed and it has been driven a lot with them, I have seen the gear teeth with the hardening worn through. While it is apart it is always worthwhile checking out the synchro's. Chances are if the bearings are stuffed, so are the synchros. You may find when you add it all up, it works out cheaper to grab another 'box. They generally come with warranty, so its a pretty safe option. Quicker as well, in and out in one day. I waited 2 months for some bits last time I pulled an RB25DET gearbox down. Hope that helps

Hi Roy, I stuck a set of GTR cams in a 170,000K RB20DET, no change valve springs, runs like a beauty. It would probably be worthwhile using a set of upgraded valve springs when going for the 264/9.5mm cams though. :wassup: Torque is what kills RB gearboxes and RB20 boxes are basically the same as VL turbo ones. So I reckon 260 rwkw is not beyond them, with an RB20 torque curve of course. A 260 rwkw RB31DET would be a different matter. :Bang: I have seen a few dead RB20 gearboxes, but they have died from abuse and zero maintenance with bearing and synchro failure. I haven't seen one with all the teeth cleaned off 4th gear, like I have in several GTR boxes. :boohoo: Be brave, avago, plenty of RB20 gearboxes around pretty cheap too.............

Depends on what else you have done, how good the tuner is and what sort of condition your engine is in. Never actually stuck a set of GTR cams in an RB25DET, but going on the RB20DET improvement from the same upgrade, I would reckon on 20 to 25 rwkw if all the above is good.

It depends on whether or not your ecu can handle the minute control of the larger injectors required to maintain good a/f ratios at idle.

OK, I'm confused......... Benny is comparing injectors ($600), GTRS turbo ($4K), std ecu tune ($500), pipework (inlet, outlet, dump, water and oil say $500), less sell 2530 for say $1.6K. Total $4K WITH a Power FC ($1200) and a tune ($500) Total $1.7K. I am not surprised that the $4k upgrade will feel "a ton of power" but for 2.5 times as much cost, I would damn well expect that. To me that's not comparing apples with apples. :wassup: How about injectors ($600), 2530 turbo ($0K), Power FC ($1200), tune ($500), adj pulleys ($400), a set of KHS 264 @ 9.5 mm cams ($900) and a Datalogit ($600), Total $4K. :aroused: Now that's a fairer comparison

MMMMMMMMMM? Does it make the "beeeeeee" noise when the engine isn't running? Or when cranking? Does it make the "booooooo" noise when the engine is running? :headspin:

More questions..........some suggestiions.... 1. It's on the menu on the Datalogit software, I have never looked on the Commander 2. Never bothered, I figured Nissan probably spent more time on it than I could 3. Yes, PFC mapping looks very much like the standard ECU mapping for the VVT 4. Shoot, hundreds of hours I reckon. You would have to do every rpm point at every load point and test each degree of timing. Ouch, my brain hurts just thinking about it. 5. Refer suggestion #2 and suggestion #4

Hi Jimbo, sorry I have no ideas about "2 notes", my family reckon I'm tone deaf anyway. It is usualy related to how hard it is resting on the bottom or how much fuel is in the tank and covering the pump. The Commander tells you what the ecu is telling the injectors, not what the injectors are actually doing. Fuel pressure guage or a quick a/f ratio check on the dyno will do that. "5 hours", I've been stressed for longer than that pumping up a flat tyre by mouth. :jk:

Suggestions follow... 1. yes 2. remove rb25 cams, put in rb26 cams 3. yes on the inlet, RB25 pulley is OK on the exhaust 4. not necessary 5. yes 6. no, less power down low, that's what VVT is for (plus emmisions of course) 7. yes 8. no 9. that's a good place to start 10. not really, it may allow the engine to stay at higher rpm longer. But the other parts of the engine may suffer as a result. 11. no Hope that helps

Hi Bass, suggestions follow; 1. Yes 2. Yes 3. No :thankyou:

The right spring rate in the wastegate actuator, nothing else comes close. I use the accelerator pedal for controlling boost, if i don't want to go so fast I don't push the pedal down so far. :jk: I really find it a pain when I drive cars that have adj boost settings on controllers. While I am fiddling around turning the boost up, the race is lost.

Hi Jimbo, #1 rule with fuel pumps, make sure it isn't touching anything in the tank (like the bottom) otherwise the noise will drive you crazy. #2 rule, make sure the clamps and brackets are tight, otherwise it will move around until it rests on something and the noise will drive you crazy. #3 rule, if you suspect the fuel pump, check the fuel pressure. Best done at the fuel rail, on the dyno with a good load on and some boost up. #4 rule, don't post something up at lunchtime and complain if no one answers before afternoon tea. Some of us have to work you know.

Measure it form the centre of the wheel to the guard (vertically) on all 4 corners. Then post the results up and I can give you some idea of what may be wrong.

Do you want separate bump and rebound adjustment? Koni (if you want combined bump and rebound adjustment), Ohlins (they have both combined and separate), DMS (ditto), Proflex (separate bump and rebound adjustment). Measure them up and I can work out the rate for you. I need to know the coil ID, wire diameter and exactly the number of coils. Depends on what car you have, what you are using it for, what tyres you are running and what else you have done, suspension wise.

Hi riceline, firstly let me say I personally like the PFC because it warns you that there is a detonation problem by flashing the dashboard warning light. I would much rather it do that than say retard the ignition, dump some fuel in and cover up for the fact that there is a problem. All I know is, suddenly the car doesn't go very well, but I have no idea when it started or why! Secondly, what is it that causes the detonation that I need to protect the engine from? If the ignition timing is too far advanced, then cutting the ignition is a bit of a drastic way to fix it. Plus it doesn’t really FIX IT, it simply masks the problem. Same for lean A/F ratios etc etc. Personally I think there is a better way, by setting up the maps for engine temp and boost you can “protect the engine” and still have the warning. For example, if the detonation would have been caused by too high engine water temp, such as experienced on a very hot day. What I would do is set up the maps so that when the PFC encounters high water temp it adds enough fuel to prevent detonation. Plus the extra fuel helps lower the combustion temperature which may well stop the overheating. You could do the same for excessively high inlet temperature (on a GTR) or oil temp or low fuel pressure or low water pressure (using the analogue channels of a Datalogit system). If you measure the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, then that covers things like blocked fuel filters or failing fuel pumps. Similarly low water pressure covers busted radiator hoses, hole in the radiator, air in cooling system etc. I can see these things on the Datalog, I know that the engine isn’t running well from 1.15 pm today due to low water pressure. Plus the dashboard warning light flashed at the time and I could back off, or better still, stop and fill up the radiator. I am not saying that I can’t do this sort of stuff with a Wolf, or other ECU’s for that matter. What I am saying is, personally, I would much rather have a warning light and some mapped protection, than an ECU that simply covers up the problem or worse still goes into limp home mode at the first unusual occurrence. Hope that makes sense.

If you didn't get the actuator rod exactly the right length (ie; shorter) you have reduced the preload on the spring. This means the wastegate will open at earlier than previous boost levels. Try lengthening the rod.

I agree with the guys, plug gap is where I would start.

Usually this is ignition timing related, but it is easy to tell if it was fuel related via the A/F ratios. If it was going lean then it will detonate. So, did you get an A/F ratio printout from the dyno day? If you did, it will be easy to tell whether it was ignition of fuel.

Hi Omran got your PM. In my opinion 500 bhp is past the limit for standard internals, ~450 bhp is a far as I would go. If that is Ok, then this is what we did on our R34 GTT which makes 265 rwkw.... * Power FC with Boost Control Kit & Commander (20 rwkw) $1100 * Split dump with mandrel 3.5" exhaust & hi flow cat (25 rwkw) $900 * GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25DET turbo (20 rwkw) $1600 * Tomei 500 cc injectors (0 rwkw) $900 * Tomei 260 Poncams (15 rwkw) $1400 * Z32 AFM (0 rwkw) $200 * Pipercross panel filter in the standard airbox (5 rwkw)$100 * Upgrade the ambient air feed (on a hot day 20 rwkw) $12 * Standard R33/34 GTR intercooler (20 rwkw) $600 * 63 mm pipework from the turbo to the intercooler (goes with I/C) $150 * 75 mm pipework from the intercooler to the throttle body (goes with I/C) $200 * 85 mm aluminium pipework with silicone pie adaptors from the turbo to the AFM (the standard rubber kept getting sucked closed) $80 * OS Giken twin plate clutch (O rwkw) $1700 * Electric fan (remove the standard fan) (4 rwkw) $100 Total ~$9K plus labour (say 4 days at $60 per hour) and tuning (say $500). Total ~$11.5K (Australian dollars of course) You will notice it does not have a thick head gasket, I personally don't believe in them at all and at that power level are not necessary anyway. You will also notice no adj cmashaft pulleys. The Tomei cams have so far proved to be prefectly timed standard, so don't waste your money. Being a hi flow of your standard turbo, all the water, oil and air pipework will fit back up as per standard. Hope that helps, if you really want 500 bhp then let me know as you need quite a different spec plus a bit of internal work.

That's the way we do it, stick a short piece of insulated wire in between the #1 coil and spark plug. I leave it there all the time, it saves removing the coil everytime you want to check the timing.