Sydneykid

Agree, that why I bought adjustables stabiliser bars, so I could set it up the way I like it. There is no right or wrong, it's whatever YOU like, so don't be afraid to play around with the settings.

Not if you need them now, it will be a few months until they are ready for sales. Maybe around Xmas time.

Anybody got a tow bar on their Stagea? I would like some pictures so I can tell the fabricator how to make one up. Plus what towing capacity is yours?

That's exactly the point I was making, why buy a Japanese brand name set of coil overs that you have no choice of spring rates in? Better to buy a local set where you can choose not only the spring rate but the damper rate as well. Plus you get European shock technology, and all for a cheaper price. I'm with you Merli,

Have Stagea, but don't have lots of wheels and tyres to test.

And over the 1/4 mile the crank goes around ~500 times and then they need a full rebuild. And some people complain about 5,000 k oil changes! :headspin:

Personally I prefer to have mesh on the inlet side of the AFM, protect it from large lumps and supposedly straightens up the air flow over the hot wire. Some people have experienced rough running with the mesh removed.

Anyone done a wheel and tyre upgrade on their Stagea? What sizes?

How is the wiring harness from the ATTESA controller to the transfer case? If there is a poor contact or broken wire you get this sort of stuff happening. Did you reset the ECU's before you started the engine? It may also be worthwhile getting one of Impakt's diagnostic displays (like a Nissan Dealer Consult) and checking out the sensors. The R34 engine sensors are slightly different to the R33's. Did you swap ALL of the R33 sensors (off the old engine) when you changed over to the new engine? There are a few more things you can try, but I suspect one of the above will be the problem.

Take the rear mesh off, it doesn't really do anything. It is not the cause of your starting problems, my bet would be a dirty AFM, give it a good spray with brake cleaner. Good luck.

I have 5 sets of springs for our R32 GTST, they range from 180 lbs (3kg/mm) up to 450 lbs (8kg/mm). All of them are "coil over" springs, they fit on shocks with adjustable lower spring seats for height adjustment. I have a set of "non coil overs" in another of our cars that are fitted wiht 325 lb front springs. So saying "coil overs" are hard and "non coil overs are soft" is abviously not the case. That's the advantage of coil overs, I can have whatever spring rate I want and I can adjust the height of the car to compensate. All I need to do is make sure the shocks have sufficient damper adjustment to control that range of springs rates.

What where the wheel alignment specs when you had it checked? I will bet it has less caster on the left hand front than the right, common problem. Either that or they didn't check the rear wheel alignment. Either way the specs will tell the story.

Yep

Hi Benm, our GTST is pulling over 1g off the bridge at Oran Park for ~ 1.5 seconds at 6,000 rpm and acceleratiing to ~7,000 rpm in 3rd gear. That's ~150 kph! I don't think you are going to be doing that anywhere on the road. It's the combination of g force, oil temp and time that allows the oil to get away from the pick up and stay there for long enough to allow the pump to pick up air. In that ~1.5 seconds the engine will complete ~180 revolutions. You only need a handful of those to run a big end bearing dry of oil. There are 4 things involved here; *g force *engine rpm *oil temperature *time Despite trying for many years I have never been able to duplicate all 4 on the road, like we do on the track.

Sorry riggaP, you CAN NOT compensate for hard springs by backing off the damper rate in the shocks. Simplistically the spring has a rate in compression (sometime called bump or, in Janglish, bound) and most adjustable shocks have adjustable damper rates for extension (sometimes called rebound). The rebound damping needs to be sufficient to control the spring rate, otherwise you drive down the street looking like a pogo stick. So by backing of the shock rate you just make it worse. My suggestion, as always, is to get the right spring rate, in the case of a GTST destined for the drags, that means keeping the spring rate as close to 200 lbs as possible. In comparison to making more engine power, springs are cheap, for less than $200 you can improve the 1/4 times by more than $2K spent on the engine would. Hope that helps

Nissan could make a non interferance engine easily, but it would have NO power, LOUSY fuel economy and HUGE emmisions. The valve lift would have to be miniscule and the compression ratio very low. I haven't even seen a non interference petrol engine for decades. Speaking on behalf of our race team, we change belts regularly, so they don't "snap".

Reset the ecu, you must have reconnected the battery when the lambda sensor was unplugged.

Hi Dean, as long as the injectors are rated to flow at those pressures then there would be no problem with running them there. You need to keep in mind the max pressure that your fuel pump can provide (73.5 psi is normal) and the boost that you are targetting. An example; If you want 570 cc's these injectors need 60 psi to supply that, this means you only have 13.5 psi for boost due to the fuel pump limit (ie; 73.5 - 60 = 13.5) The only thing you have to be careful of with high fuel pressure is that the fuel hoses, filter and clamps are all capable of handling that sort of pressure. The result when they pop off is not very pretty. :flamed: These are the sort of numbers (flow and pressure) that we see out of standard GTR injectors, maybe slightly more but not much. Hope that helps

There are 2 problems with the EManage in autos, the first is the coil frying problem, but that happens to manuals as well. The real problem is it removes the ECU control over ignition on gearchanges, this means you end up with very jerky gearchanges. Plus, with no power cut, the gearbox will wear much faster. Simplkistically this is because the EManage has no gearshift logic. I believe there may be a cure for problem #1, but I don't see anyway for problem #2 to be overcome with the current logic. So I am looking forward to your results.

The longer the hoses, the slower the response from the valves. Air compresses and if you have a lot of air (as in long hoses) then you get pressure waves moving up and down the hoses. This is particularly noticeable on a windy road, or anywhere where you are on and off the throttle a lot. Best idea is to keep the hoses as shop as possible. I wrote that post/PM's for a guy with a GTR. The "T" piece is used to supply the 2 wastegate actuators on a GTR. If you have a single turbo (GTST) then you don't need the "T" piece. So that is simply ............ Plenum --> hose --> grey valve --> hose --> black valve --> hose --> wastegate actuator Hope that helps

Shoot that must be a "Darwin" price, "Sydney" price is double that. I will give them a call back and ask whether that's the case.

I have personally seen 3 GTR's die from oil starvation. #1 R32 GTR did 3 laps of Oran Park on road tyres, it was a fresh engine, with 1 litre over the full make on the dipstick and an oil cooler fitted. Inexperienced driver, first lap very slow to see where the track went. Second lap a little faster, what I would call a warm up lap. Third lap second corner, #5 conrod exits block. #2 R33 GTR, Eastern Creek, lap #2. On road tyres, experienced driver, oil cooler fitted, don't know the oil level. Huge big end knock after 4 laps, fortunately everything stayed inside the engine on this one. #3 R32 GTR, running in big power (and $'s) engine, ran big end bearings and seezed inlet camshaft due to lack of oil after 5 laps at Wakefield Park. Running R type tyres, very good suspension and experienced driver, oil cooler and overfilled sump. Roll the dice guys, sometime you win, sometimes you don't

Thanks for offering to the interstate guys, but I am doing OK so far in Sydney. I will let you know if I need your help.

An SAFC may well help, ultimately it depends on the amount of airflow. An SAFC simply modifies the voltage from the AFM to the ECU. Generally increasing the boost (from std) causes RB25's to run rich. In order to lean out these excessively rich A/F ratios, the SAFC reduces the AFM voltage the ECU sees. This "tricks" the ECU into believing that the engine is using less airflow than it really is, so the ECU injects less fuel. Hence correcting (leaning out) the A/F ratios. :wassup: In some cases optimising the A/F ratios requires lowering the AFM voltages below that which the ECU moves into over boost protection. So you don't get the big power "dip" at ~5,000rpm. There is a limit however, around 200 rwkw has been my experience, where the SAFC can't lower the voltages sufficiently and the "dip" returns. :thumbdwn: The best answer is a Power FC (FC= Full Computer), no more dips then, at any power level.

Let's clear something up here, R32 GTST, R32 GTR, R33 GTST, R33 GTR and R34 GTT all have ceramic turbines. R32 GTST, R32 GTR, R33 GTST, R33 GTR have steel compressor wheels. These turbos are made by Garrett for Nissan using Nissan tooling. Although I have seen a couple of late R33 GTST's with plastic compressor wheels. All R34 GTT's I have seen have plastic compresor wheels. These turbos are made by Hitachi for Nissan using Nissan tooling. I have never seen a problem with the plastic compressor wheels, it's the ceramic turbines that are subject to failure at high boost and/or temperature. The type of turbo fitted has nothing to do with the overboost protection, its dependant on the ECU.