Sydneykid

You can buy a kit, it has telescopic bars so you can fit them through the hole on trhe inner door skin. Then expand them inside the doors. They can then be easily bolted into place at the front and rear of the doors, around the lock and hinge positions. Before you ask, I don't know where to buy them.

Hi Grepin, the are two things that are important to remember with wastegate actuators. The previous post of mine covers them both, the first is the spring rate which you appear to have addressed. The second is the preload on the wastegate actuator spring. An example, the spring rate is 14 lbs per inch (not 14 pounds per square inch). So if you have the spring compressed one inch it will put 14 lbs of preload on the wastegate. But if you only have 1/2 inch of preload then the spring will only put 7 pounds of preload on the wastegate. So my suggestion would be to increase the preload. You can do that by lengthening the actuator rod, if it is adjustable. If not, use a longer actuator rod. If you don't have a longer actuator rod then you can weld an extension onto the one you have. Alternatively, if the wastegate actuator bolts onto the housing from the wastegate side, then you can use some longer bolts with spacers (washers) to move the actuator closer to the wastegate thus increasing the preload. I can guarantee that the addtional preload will hold the wastegate closed, the trick is to ensure that you don't add too much preload sa as to exceed the boost target. Hope that helps

Nope, it's a Performance Metalcraft fabricated stainless steel work of art, that I promptly covered with exhaust wrap. I might get it ceramic coated before I put it in the Stagea, so I can show it off.

I go through 7,000 rpm a lot of times when not on full throttle, everytime I change gear for a start. Then driving though corners holding it on the throttle, not the best time for a cough. GTST's don't have inlet air temp compensation, so my best friend when it gets very hot or very cold is the AFM. The inlet air temp change alters the AFM readings, as it measures the air flow and therefore the air density. Personally, if it hits max voltage at 4,500 rpm, then I reckon it's time for a Z32 AFM.

Well, the theory is by having a recirculating BOV, the hot air goes around again. Whereas an atmospherically vented BOV gets rid of the hot air and makes room for fresh (colder) air. There is also the cooling effect from the overly rich mixture that the engine runs after the atmosphere BOV has vented. Some people say that this overly rich mixture also reduces lag on gear changes as it burns in the turbo and helps spool it up. You can overcome most of the stalling problems associated with an atmosphere BOV, it is a bit of fiddling though and I am not sure if it is worth it on a road car when you add in the legal issues. On the race cars we always have atmosphere vented BOV's. Hope that helps

When does it hit 5.1 volts? And does it stay there for long? Hitting 5.1 volts at 7,000 rpm is not a big problem, while hitting it at 4,000 rpm and it staying there all the way to 7,500 rpm is a big problem.

First test, put the Commander into Monitor mode and watch the display closely at 4,000rpm. It may pay to have the passenger do it or point the video camera at it then play it back for analysis later. Second test, fuel filter and/or fuel pump, check the fuel pressure at the rail. My best guesses

Hi J, it is my understanding that an R33 4 door exhaust is pretty much the same. I am going to use the split dump and high flow cat off the R32 GTST. Then I will check and see how much I need to modify the R32 GSTST exhaust for it to fit as well. I might as well use it since it is getting a titanium exhaust with the new engine. Our Stagea is far from firm, the spring rates may well be OK but it needs new shocks real bad. I am going to get a set of Koni Sports and move the circlips down a couple of notches. Once I work out which model shock it needs. Then a pair of stabiliser bars and some adj caster, the steering is too light with not enouigh precision for my tastes. Should handle pretty good then.

Thanks S13drifter, I couldn't be bothered measuring them, but doing the numbers is easy; Butterfly = 44/2*44/2*22/7 = 1,521 sqmm Spindle = 44 * 6 (from memory) = 264 sqmm = 1,257 sq mm each X 6 = 7,543 sq mm Compared to the big single..... 100/2*100/2*22/7 = 7,857 sq mm Spindle = 100 X 6 = 600 sqmm = 7,257 sqmm So, if s13drifters measurements are OK, the standard 6 throttle bodies are 4% larger than one 100 mm single throttle body. :cooldance But is this the right way to do the comparison? Since each cylinder fires individually (one at a time) then isn't each cylinder getting sole use of the 100 mm throttle body some of the time? Not all of the time because of valve timing overlap between cylinders and the volume of air contained in the plenum. So you would have to know the valve timing and the plenum volume and the engine rpm to work out each individual cylinders share of the 100 mm. :wassup: My opinion (for what it's worth) is that the main reason the Japs go to a single throttle body is so they can use MAP sensor driven ECU's. Multiple throttle bodies and MAP sensors don't go together very well when you have big cams and lots of boost. Over some LARGE horsepower number, there is probably an airflow advantage, but I have no idea how LARGE it is. :confused: I could probably write a formula for it..........nah too much brain drain, time for a drink :alcoholic

230,000 k's = just run in nicely.

There seems to be 2 specs of tow bars these days, one around 1.2 tonnes for box trailers, bike trailers, tinnies and the like. Then there is the big one around 2.2 tonnes for car trailers, caravans and big boats. More info next week inc prices when I get a chance to get ours registered.

It's not closed loop, put the Commander in Monitor mode and note the map location. Then adjust (Setings) that point on the map. Simple.

I was just being honest, I really can't say for sure which is better. Let me start off with, I am not a fan of grinding RB cranks, as they are very well nitrided standard. If it needs more than a linish, I simply don't use it. There are different thicknesses of Chevy bearings, I would prefer to use a thinner bearing than grind the crank. Alternatively, open up the big end. We run minimum 2 thou clearance, but it depends on horsepower, oil pressure and the oil you are using.

I don't know, I have deliberately never measured it.

Yep all that is absolutely correct, except ours was an early 1997 build. My problem is why did DOTARS insist on crash testing (at a cost of ~$25K) when the later model doors (with better side intrusion bars) are already approved? It is simply illogical. If I need to replace a door now and buy a new one from Nissan, I will get a later model one, as they don't make the earlier one any more. All it needed from DOTARS was a recognition of the fact that vehicle manufacturers do rolling updates. So newer model parts will appear in earlier model cars. If the earleir model is approved and the later model is approved then the rolling update should be approved. What it means is, anyone who imports a Stagea from now on will have to pay back their share of the $25K that was waisted on the crash test. In my case, I had to waist $500 on a used earlier model (unsafer) door and then get it painted. As I said, totally illogical. :headspin:

You will get plenty of discussion over the "H" Beam versus "I" Beam rods on any V8 forum. There are pros and cons. I believe H beams are a bit more aerodynamic. For the same weight "I" beams are a little stronger in torsional bend, but "H" beams balance up more evenly. "I" beams will handle a bit of abuse, whereas just a little nick in a "H" beam will result in a stress fracture. etc etc My new RB31DET has "I" beams in it, they are rated at 200 bhp each. All my previous engines have had "H" beams and I have never had a problem. Bottom line, I have no idea which is better

We use a PWR radiator, but I still wouldn't use an electric fan on an everyday driven, airconditioned road car in Australia, it simply gets too hot. :flamed:

Hi Daniel, I am not a Subaru expert but the longest Subaru (EJ20 and EJ25) rod I have seen is just over 5", nowhere near the 6" rod needed in an RB30.

Yes

Sorry I don't understand??

The Stagea is still in the panel shop and I haven't had a chance to get the tow bar measured up. We had a hectic few weeks of racing, one car dropped a diff, it was on the way out, no loss. Another copped a severe over rev (14,000 rpm +) due to a missed shift and another blew a head gasket (no, I didn't assemble that engine). Thankfully the other 2 ran like clockwork all weekend. :wassup: I you want, I will ask how much to make 2 both at the same time. I can then send it down or you can pop up and get it fitted. Anyone else want a 2.2 tonne capable tow bar? Maybe a group buy chance here.

My 20 cents worth.... The 044 is designed to work at 13.8 volts all the time. So feeding it 6 volts doesn't sound like a particularly good idea to me. So I always run a relay, switched by the standard wiring and with power supply wiring back to the battery. I use a 30 amp fuse at the battery to make sure there are no short circuits. I have never had a problem with priming but I always run a non return valve if the pump is mounted in the tank. If it has a surge tank, then a non return valve isn't really necessary. Hope that helps

Hi Steve, at what power level does the 60 kw get robbed?

Why are you getting/letting Innovative to give you a PLAIN BEARING turbo? Shoot, I'd get into their titanium compressor, dual ceramic ball bearing range :aroused: As for what to do, here is my most used list for a 225rwkw (400 bhp) RB20DET; * Power FC with Boost Control Kit & Commander * Split dump with mandrel 3.5" exhaust & hi flow cat * GCG ball bearing hi flow RB25DET turbo * Mazda RX7 Sereis V Turbo 550 cc injectors * R32/33 GTR cams and valve springs * adj camshaft pulleys * Z32 AFM * Pipercross POD filter with heat shielding * Upgrade the ambient air feed substantially * Standard R33/34 GTR intercooler * 63 mm pipework from the turbo to the intercooler * 75 mm pipework from the intercooler to the throttle body * 85 mm aluminium pipework with silicone pipe adaptors from the turbo to the AFM (the standard rubber keeps getting sucked closed) * OS Giken twin plate clutch * Electric fan (remove the standard fan) You will notice it does not have a thick head gasket, I personally don't believe in them at all and at that power level are not necessary anyway. If you want a bit more average power then o'ring the head, use a standard head gasket, port it and polish the combustion chambers. Being a hi flow of the standard dimensioned turbo, all the water, oil and air pipework will fit back up as per standard. In a 1245 kg R32 GTST, it ran a high 11 on Goodyear slicks at 121 mph at a lousy track. Hope that helps

Hi CoolPC, it doesn't always go as planned. I purchased ours on 6th May, it left Japan on the 12th May and arrived on the 3rd June, which was 1 day late against the Kiwi Car Carriers shipping schedule. Quarantine held it for 5 working days until they released it. It took 2 days to travel the 10 k's and get from the dock in Brisbane to the compliance shop. Then it spent 10 working days getting physically complied as promised. But :cuss: DOTARS took another 17 working days to complete the paperwork as it had a later model LHS rear door, which eventually had to be changed. It then took 4 working days to get from Brisbane to Sydney and arrived here on 22nd July. So if you get yours in under 2 months, registered and ready to go, consider yourself lucky.