Sydneykid

Simple question. not so simple answer... Not if the standard pump was delivering the required amount of fuel as per the ECU. If the standard pump was under delivering, and the euc was tuned to compensate for that, then when you put the GTR pump in the car will run rich. So it will need retuning. Hope that helps

I bought my PFC off the forum. I used ALL of the R32 GTST sensors and the R32 GTST wiring harness. I carefully removed them, one by one, off the RB20DET and put them onto the RB30DET, that way I knew everything worked. The only thing I changed was the AFM, we used a Q45 AFM, the RB20/25 AFM wouldn't handle the airflow. The RB20DET already had 565 cc injectors, they went straight into the GTR fuel rail and inlet manifold. I just upped the fuel pressure with a Nismo adj FPR, the Bosch 044 handles it easily. I even used the RB20DET ignitor and coils. I put the old RB20DET back in a while back while we built a new RB31DET, which is just about ready to go in. (Similar max power, but higher average power). I will follow the same simple rules, use EVERYTHING (from the RB20DET) that plugged into the standard wiring harness. Change as little as is absolutely necessary. Hope that answered your questions

No, bolt pattern is different, water jackets in different places. I have answered this question so many times, it's like Groundhog Day. Nissan didn't want people sticking RB26 stuff on RB25's, so they made it as hard as they could. They wanted to sell GTR's after all.

Time for an update.............. Two weeks working interstate, so down to the RTA with the ORIGINAL greenslip. RTA= "All the paperwork is now in order" Me = "Great where's my rego?" RTA = "Bad luck, you have been selected for a random inspection" Me = "No problems, let's go" RTA = "Sorry, but you have to book it in" Me = "Next Saturday?" :throwup: RTA = " Sorry the Inspection Stations are only open Monday to Friday" Me = "But I work" RTA = "So XXXXday, at YYYYYYYYY" Me = "Then they will register it?" RTA = "On no, you will have to come back here to register it" Me = "That means a whole day off work" RTA = "Sorry, that's the system :Bang:

I have an R32 GTST Power FC, had it for over 3 years, used the Commander for the first year and a half to tune it and a Datalogit for the last few months. It was on the RB20DET for the first year or so (ended up at 225 rwkw) then we put the RB30DET in it (RB30E bottom end with RB26 top end) and it handles the 400+rwkw just fine. Our race team dyno tuner had never seen a Power FC before, reckoned it wouldn't be as good as the Motec's we usually use. Now he is converted, mostly because they are so easy, they work straight out of the box, all the tricky stuff is done. Plug it in (5 minutes) and onto the dyno, where he just has to tune it for power. The Datalogit is worth it if you do lots of tuning, then more mods, then more tuning etc. I find the Commander very handy, replaces quite a few gauges and great for diagnostics. I didn't worry about how much the R32 GTST Power FC cost, because I knew I could get my money if I ever sold it. They don't loose much, cause they are rare. With the Commander it cost me $1,400, I reckon I will get that back, so it only costs me bank interest to keep the PFC, that's $1400 X 4.99% = $1.35 per week. I reckon that's a bargain.

That's about right for a core swap to ball bearing/water cooled, but that's not what I was describing. They stay plain bearing/oil cooled for ~$1500 (yep, that's for the pair). Hope that clarifies

What, you think I'm wrong? :wassup:

The HKS slit dump pipes, as with most Japanese parts, are very well made. But they suffer. like a lot of Japanese parts, from the "bolt on" culture. They must bolt on exactly the same as the original parts and that's the problem. HKS have designed a split dump that perfectly replaces the standard dump, that means it has to have a short separation to mate up to the flange on the standard engine pipe. Then they make an engine pipe that bolts up perfectly to the standard dump and the standard cat. Therefore you can use the engine pipe with the standard dump or the HKS split dump. etc etc Why do they do this, surely it would make more sense if they made a combined split dump and engine pipe (with longer separation)? My opinion, good Japanese mechanics charge like brain surgeons. So the "bolt on" culture means any "not so good" mechanic can replace the standard part with the aftermarket part. Plus HKS would have to make 3 parts, as they would have the short split dump, the engine pipe and the combined dump and engine pipe. Much simpler to have 2, cuts down the stock carried by distributors by 1/3. Hope that makes sense

You don't NEED the Commander if you have a Datalogit system. But I like them anyway, because they save more than their cost on extra gauges and for quick diagnosis they are hard to beat.

You are looking at maybe 8 hours for a GTR/GTS4 clutch replacement, including flywheel machining time. So 80 X 8 = $640 as a max, plus parts of course.

My understanding is ~100 PS more than a T88-34D, which would be around 1100 PS.

As an alternative you can get your turbos fitted with slightly larger steel turbines. Most people do the compressors at the same time, basically the spec is pretty much N1. Cost about $1,500, plenty of turbo shops do it, we use GCG. Hope that helps

Which weights?

Hi riceline, fuel runs at ~75 psi so you need a cooler that can hold that sort of pressure. Auto transmission or power steering coolers are not really rated for continuous use at that sort of pressure, from what I have seen. So I would reckon an oil cooler would be the most likely option. Maybe have a talk to Martin at Earls (www.earls.com.au) he has lots of experience with coolers. Before you go ahead, I would strongly suggest you measure the temperature of the fuel going into your engine and compare it with the ambient temperature of the day. You may well find it to be a waste of time. That's why we use the ice cooled method.

Hi Chris, which GTST are we talking about here, R32, R33 or R34? What engine, RB20 or RB25? Are we talking 4wd RB20DET, 2WD RB20DET. 2WD RB25DET or 4WD RB25DET? Almost everything is easily interchangeable between RB26 and RB25 (except manifolds). You can even use an RB26 crank and rods in an RB20. So you need to be very specific about what you want to know. We have an R32 GTST circuit race car with an RB30 bottom end and an RB26 top end, it uses a R33 GTST (RB25DET) gearbox. So you can see how much is really interchangeable. I reached the same conclusion as you have, it costs a shootload more money to run a 650 bhp 1,600 kg 4wd than it does to run a 650 bhp 1,200 kg 2wd. So ask away, but be specific with the questions, otherwise I can't answer.

Pistons, both heads appear to have 62 to 64 cc combustion chambers.

My experience has been that the PFC does an OK job of changing the voltage ramp when you upgrade AFM's. The car runs OK, but not perfect. So I always retune it and generally pick up some power while doing so. Which is logical, otherwise why would you be changing the AFM?

Hi guys, we use a Performance Metalcraft fabricated split dump, engine pipe and cat replacement all in one. I had it made that way because it only has 2 flanged joints instead of 4, this saves weight as flanges, nuts and bolts are heavy. Plus I only have 2 gaskets (not 4) to worry about leaking. There is 450 mm separation until the wastegate pipe joins the turbine exhaust pipe. All of that is good reason, but the main one was, I didn't like the short separation on the Japanese replacement dump pipes. I believe the turbulence, created when the wastegate rejoins the turbine outlet, is a big cause of reduced throttle response and delayed boost build. There is most likely a max power benefit as well as the substantial average power gain. I couldn't find an off the shelf solution at the time, so I had PM make one to my spec's. Now a 3" piece of mandrel bent pipe is pretty much the same, no matter who you buy it from, so this is what I looked for; * Nice dag free welds * No welding intrusion into the inside of the pipes * A smooth blending of the wastegate pipe, it comes in at a low angle and has no distortion or reduction of the main pipe diameter * A separation plate that fits into the turbine housing to ensure that the exhausts (wastegate and turbine) stay separated into their individual pipes * Flat smooth flanges, they can distort if not welded properly and I hate gasket leaks * The flanges and pipes have easy to get at nuts and bolts, some of them are so badly designed that it is almost impossible to get a spanner (or socket) on them * The mountings are strong and in exactly the same location as the standard mounts, I don’t like hanging the weight of the exhaust system off the turbine housing * The main pipe has a fitting for the standard lambda sensor in pretty much the standard location, I don’t like having to rerun the wiring harness just to fit the sensor. * The combined pipe has a fitting for another lambda sensor, the one used when the car is on the dyno. This gives much more accurate and speedier response to A/F ratio changes than sticking a broom stick up the exhaust pipe. * I wrapped ours, but ceramic coating inside and out would be good. Note that HPC is not necessarily ceramic, it may be just fancy protective paint with no thermal barrier properties Hope that is some help in choosing a pipe

Hi guys, for what it’s worth, our RB20DET has a GCG ball bearing hi flow of the RB25DET standard turbo, makes 1 bar at 3,100 rpm, some boost at ~2,500 rpm (depending on load), has GTR cams, adj camshaft pulleys, std R33 GTR intercooler, split dump, no cat, 3.25” exhaust, Power FC with boost control kit, well tuned (not by me), 225rwkw at 6,900 rpm using 1.3 bar, power flattens over that but doesn’t drop off dramatically, revs to 8,250 rpm easily (needs shift light, badly). The result is the sum of the parts, not just one single part. That means you won’t get a similar result (whether it is good or bad) just by choosing a turbo. Hope that helps

Dyno Dynamics? Shoot out mode?

My experience has been that Tomei cams are pretty good at zero and zero, so I would start there.

You need an adaptor.

I agree, on a manual Skylines I don't quite understand where the Emanage fits in. An SAFC is $400 and facilitates control over a/f ratios pretty well with a bolt on turbo. A PFC is $1.1K and enables control over fuel and ignition and a number of other parameters and easily handles a large range of mods. If I add up how much an Emanage (fuel and ignition) costs including fitting (PFC's just plug in) don't I end up spending more than a PFC? :headspin:

www.apexi-usa.com

Have a look here; www.whiteline.com.au plenty of tips on heights and stuff in the articles on various Skylines.