Sydneykid

OK I give up, why would you want to lower the fuel pressure? Because if you put a bleed valve in between the FPR and the plenum that's what would happen. Surely you want to raise the pressure, or have I missed something? :confused:

Where was the IT temp probe?

Hi Steve, on this dyno graph the AT is 21 degrees and the IT is 52 degrees. On BMan's, the AT is 25 degrees and the IT is 31 degrees. Help me out here, I am confused :confused: PS; There are a couple of other interesting differences, but more on that later. I am more concerned with the temperature differences first off.

A leak down test will give a pretty good test. If it has any ring land damage this will show up. That and a bore-o-scope visual check and you will be safe.

No, this is like Groundhog Day. Nissan don't want you swapping GTR bits onto cheaper cars, so they designed it so it was different.

Ahh no, an example might help. We have 2 race GTR's, one Production, the other Improved Production. The Production GTR has Group A turbos running 2 bar and makes 305 rwkw. Obviously to comply with the the regs it has std cams, std head (no porting) etc. The Improved Production GTR has Garrett GT28R's and makes 385 rwkw at 1.4 bar. But it has 272/280 cams, ported head, polished combustion chambers, higher compression ratio, forged rods, forged pistons etc. A turbo is not simply an air pump, you have to think of both the compressor and the turbine as they are solidly linked. If you increase the boost (at the compressor) then you must also increase the restriction (at the turbine). There is a point at which increasing the boost actually adds even more restiction at the exhaust, and the engine looses power. Hope that makes sense

Damn good result, everything seems to be lined up and tuned so that the turbos can do their best. I have never seen an RB engine (in fact any engine) respond to advancing the exhaust camshaft, it is always retarding the exhaust timing that gives the best result. The amount (8 degrees) is also extreme, more than I have seen, is it crankshaft degrees or camshaft degrees? Normally it is expressed as crankshaft degrees, with camshaft degrees being double that. Maybe that also explains the large amount of inlet camshaft advance. Might be worthwhile confirming the settings in case you need to duplicate them later on. Enjoy , looking forward to seeing the dyno graphs.

Some dimensions would help, height, width, thicknes.

Boost is really irrelevant, it's airflow that makes power. More power = more combustion pressure and that's what kills engines. Think about the airflow differences between a huge turbo at 16psi and a smaller turbo at 16 psi. Boost is not a very good ruler to measure by. So I prefer to have a power limit on RB20 standard internals, not a boost limit. The current rule of thumb is 265 rwkw, over that and the pistons and rod bolts have problems. That said, the real limit is TUNING, a good tune at 265 rwkw is less likely to cause problems than a poor tune at 200 rwkw. Hope that helps

Hi Mafia. boost is really irrelevant, it's increased airflow that causes the AFM to exceed its maximum voltage (5.1 volts). My rule of thumb is 240 rwkw, that's where I start looking at upgrading the RB20/25 AFM, the Z32 AFM is good to around 320 rwkw. It's the same size (80mm) as the RB25 AFM, so it isn't really "bigger". It is calibrated so that it shows around 4 volts at the same airflow as the RB25 AFM shows 5 volts. So you have another 1 volt to tune with. You don't have too much of a problem yet as it isn't sitting on 5 volts for long rpm durations. If you have higher power asperations, then its time for an AFM upgrade. Hope that helps

Could be suspension.

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9.

Time to adjust the idle bypass, increase the idle 100 rpm or so, add a bit more air and the ecu will add fuel to compensate. The result is a stronger idle. You may also be able to sneak a bit more ignition advance via the CAS, that strengthens up the idle as well. The bottom line is you really need some ECU tuning, my rule of thumb is change turbo = change ECU. If you only want say around 220 rwkw, and being an auto, an SAFC may be enough to do the job to your satisfaction. If you power asperations are higher then a full ECU is the go. There are plenty of threads on ECU's in auto's, I strongly suggest you do a search and read session. Hope that helps

Be careful, VL's came with 185/60/15's, compare that to my GTST with 245/45/17's, this turrns the 4.363 dif ratio into a 3.9.

No problems, that's why I bought the Stagea, to tow the R32 GTST to the track. I have found a guy in NZ who had a tow bar made there for his. I have asked for some pictures of it to compare with what my local tow bar fabricator suggests. I'll let you know what happens.

I mentioned this in another post some time ago, but I need some feedback from guys with tow bars fitted to their Stageas. I am juts about to take ours along to the tow bar fabricator and I was hoping to pick up some ideas from those with one already as to mounting points etc. A picture or 2 would be great. Also if there is enough interest I may be able to organise a group buy, so let me know on that as well.

Air leak?

Not if you put the oil cooler in front of the radiator, it actually then adds pressure.

Simplistically, the current stare of the art in affordable turbos is ball bearing cores with water cooling, the oil flow cools a bit but water does most of the work. The common (as they have been around longer) plain bearing turbos use the oil to cool them, they need higher oil pressure and flow (than ball bearing turbos). If you want to know more, do a search, there is plenty of discussion on this.

You're lucky to have such a big choice, zero Stagea compliers in NSW, zero in Vic, one in Perth and 3 in Qld, but one has no licences left. So I had a choice of 2. :headspin:

Your PM inbox is full and you have no email address on your profile, so this is the best way to contact you. If you still have one for sale I am interested, I have cash and I am in Perth on business for 2 weeks.

What does this mean? More information needed please.

Motec CDI with Mercury outboard coils (they are designed for CDI), bought the lot direct from Motec. Not cheap, work great, no problems, over 1050 bhp on the engine dyno. Power FC, standard ignitor, standard coils, 625 bhp on the same engine dyno, same engine spec, just smaller turbo and cams. Cheap, work great.

Name please and I will have them sacked.

This is my understanding of "full kit" with prices as at yesterday; 1. E-manage main unit $US295 = $A415 2. E-manage Support Tool $US119 = $A167 3. Optional Injection Harness $US32 = $A45 4. Optional Ignition Harness $US34 = $48 Package $US449 = $A632 + Freight $A100 + Duty 15% + GST 10% That’s $A926 in total, or have I missed something?