Sydneykid

Welcome, please share your experiences

OK I give in, which bit of drivel was right? :headspin:

As long as you use the RB26 inlet system, no problems.

Hi Moanie, can you please tell us more about what happened.... How did the know it was EXACTLY the same? Did they mark the parts? Take pictures? I mean you could have had say a HKS exhaust on the first time and a Trust exhaust the second time. They're not the EXACTLY same. For all you know one may be illegal and another legal. How did they get around that? Was your car complied under the old or new system? If it was complied under the old system it didn't have to have a stock standard exhauts on it to be leagally complied. How did they get around that? When you took it back the first time for inspection, did they mark the parts then? Or take pictures? I mean they may have approved a non standard exhaust and then busted you for something that they approved. How did they get around that? How long did you have between the time you were busted and the time you had to take it for inspection? Did they impound the car in between? Did you have time to remove the offending parts? Would they have known if you did? We are all facing this kind of stuff and the more info we have the better we can defend ourselves.

Not actually correct as the hydraulic follower allows clearance, due to the timing of the oil inlet, but let's just say it doesn't.... Then you end up with 18/1000 extra lift, this is not a bad thing And you end up with longer duration, again this is not a bad thing I really can't see a problem, an RB is not a an old style engine with the hydraulic lifter at the opposite end of a push rod.

Our RSFOUR is a Feb'97 build, it is a low option level (no sunroof/s, no leather, no woodgrain, no sat nav or tv etc). Registered, on road = no change from $17K, then add insurance $1.3K and you end up at ~$18.5K ready to drive. This compares to what you can buy in the dealers here in Sydney for $23K-$25K.

Ohhh why?

That's impossible Sorry, but it is... If the flow is reduced, there isn't enough fuel to hold the pressure. It's that simple. It could be time to have it checked out by someone else..

That's impossible Sorry, but it is... If the flow is reduced, there isn't enough fuel to hold the pressure. It's that simple It might be time to have it checked out by someone else.

Hi, personally before I guess, I would like some more info; Highflow Turbos (Steel Blades) - How hi? Forged Pistons - what bore and what compression ratio? HKS Stage 2 Cams - what lift and duration? K&N Pod Filters - with or without heat shielding and ambient air feed? 3 inch exhaust - hi lfow cat? - Equal length engine pipes? Split dumps? Adjustable Cam Gears- tuned for max power or average power?

Thanks J, good pictures, big help

Yep that used to be the case, but some people saw a chance to make money and so they made universal, easy to fit ones.

Let's do the numbers; An RB30 conrod is 152.5 mm long An RB25/26 conrod is 121.5 mm long That's 152.5-121.5 = 31.5 mm taller An RB25 crankshaft has a stroke of 71 mm An RB30 cranksahfts has a stroke of 85 mm That's 85 - 71 / 2 = 7 mm taller An RB25 has a piston deck height 2.7 mm higher than an RB30. So 31.5 + 7 - 2.7 = 35.8 mm taller For the guys fitting one to an R32 ( with or without a GTR bonnet) we did that about 4 years ago. I used a Sub Zero style cylindrical plenum on top of the standard lower inlet manifold of the RB25DE top end that we used. Then everything fitted in nicely. Standard engine mounts etc etc. Hope that helps

Hi guys, here is an example of 4 intercooler setups and pipework we have actually used; 1. R33 GTST Standard Intercooler and standard R32 GTST pipework 150 rwkw = 27 lbs of air per min @ 13 litres of i/c & pipework 2. Supra Intercooler and matching 63mm pipework 180 rwkw = 30 lbs of air per min @ 15 litres of i/c & pipework 3. Standard R33 GTR intercooler and 63/75mm pipework 250 rwkw = 40 lbs of air per min @ 21 litres of i/c & pipework 4. Greddy 600 X 300 X 115 and 80 mm pipework 400 rwkw = 60 lbs of air per min @ 28 litres of i/c & pipework If you look at the numbers you can see that the rate of air flow and the volume of I/C and pipework have a fixed relationship (27 = 13 , 30 = 15 , 40 = 21 , 60 = 28). This is not an accident, I designed it that way. The reason is I wanted to keep the throttle response as close what it was when the car had 150 rwkw, because I though that was very nice response. The theory I followed was, the more power the engine produces the more air it needs. Thus if I keep the increase in the volume of air inside the inlet system in the same proportion as the power increase, then the throttle response should stay the same. This is based on the engine using the air in the same time frame. So when people say they fitted a FMIC and have not noticed any less throttle response, my response would be, that is what I would expect. As long as they went from 150 rwkw to 180 rwkw. On the other hand, if there was no power increase then it would be simply physically impossible for there to be no decrease in throttle response. The problem of poor throttle response arrises when you have a 220 rwkw engine with a 28 litre inlet system. This is something I see way to often. Hope that adds to this interesting thread.

Try some Redline gearbox oil, (there is a thread on it, do a search) if that doesn't fix it then it's rebuild the gearbox time. About $1.5K should cover in and out and a basic rebuild, as long as there is no damage to the gears themselves of course.

I am confused, since the wastegate opens outward (away from the turbo and into the dump) excessive back pressure will tedn to hold the wastegate closed, not open it prematurely. Or have I missed something? :confused:

As Roy said, the usual R34GTT over boost protection by the ECU. I take it that it is an auto, no Power FC then. An SAFC should be on your list, here is a post I prepared earlier...... An SAFC may well help, ultimately it depends on the amount of airflow. An SAFC simply modifies the voltage from the AFM to the ECU. Generally increasing the boost (from std) causes RB25's to run rich. In order to lean out these excessively rich A/F ratios, the SAFC reduces the AFM voltage the ECU sees. This "tricks" the ECU into believing that the engine is using less airflow than it really is, so the ECU injects less fuel. Hence correcting (leaning out) the A/F ratios. In some cases optimising the A/F ratios requires lowering the AFM voltages below that which the ECU moves into over boost protection. So you don't get the big power "dip" at ~5,000rpm. There is a limit however, around 200 rwkw has been my experience, where the SAFC can't lower the voltages sufficiently and the "dip" returns. Hope that helps

You should still use the bleed valve, it just won't have to work as hard with the stronger seat pressure on the wastegate actuator. BTW, you probably already know this, but 13 psi with a standard turbo is not a good idea.

Get it inspected, not worth the risk.

Hi Roy, the leverage effect of larger diameter rotors (even with the same pad dimensions) is quite noticeable. You don't get something for nothing though, you do loose a bit of pedal feel. I am still using standard GTST callipers with standard dimension DBS slotted rotors on ours. The tyres are limiting factor, as to how well it stops, and that's using Yokohama A032R's in the soft compound ie; even after 10 laps I can still lock the wheels with excessive brake application.

Alternative to Kings, try; www.whiteline.com.au They have some articles on S14's that will answer a lot of your questions.

I prefer my cars to have a fair bit of feel, turn in instantly and track straight. The Stagea doesn't quite make it on any of these. Being 4wd and heavy, there is probably a bit of wear in the radius rod bushes not helping it either. For $100 or so it's a cheap fix.

Try these guys... http://www.abautos.com.au/ There are plenty of others, just do a dearch on compliance supplies.

It depends on which way the wastegate actuator works to open the wastegate. If the wastegate actuator PULLS the wastegate open, then you lengthen the rod. If the wastegate actuator PUSHES the wastegate open then you shorten the rod. The idea is to seat the wastegate firmer and make it harder to open.

Not easily, you could try a larger pulley on the power steering pump or a smaller pulley on the crankshaft. That would slow down the pump, but you would have to experiment with the pulley sizes till you found one that added a bit of feel but didn't make parking too tough. Better to add some caster, that serves three purposes. It adds more feel to the steering as more caster = more resistance to steering. Plus the car turns in better because of the extra caster. More caster also helps the car drive straight. So it's a win, win, win upgrade.