Sydneykid

Spot on Joel, add going up a long, steep hill on a cool evening to that and you have another set of variables. This is why I always insist on running all the cars on the dyno in 4th gear. That way I get comparable results.

Oh yes, the R32 ECU can be tuned in real time on the dyno fairly easily. You get pretty goods results from a mild R32 GTR by tuning the standard ECU. This is not so easy with the R33 ECU, if fact I reckon it is so time consuming (costly) that it is cheaper to buy a PFC.

Hi Big Carl, I wouldn't worry about the manifold, inlet or exhaust, as you are nowhere near the limit of either. There are other things that will give you more. What I have done to our engine that you haven't done yet; 1. We run 19.5 psi (~8rwkw) 2. We run R33 GTR intercooler, is yours R32 GTR? (~5rwkw) 3. The head is ported, the combustion chambers are polished and the manifolds are carefully matched (~10rwkw) 4. The big one, a set of Tomei 260 degree poncams is fitted (~20rwkw) 5. Lastly we have done an injector upgrade and changed to a Z32 AFM (~0rwkw). No extra power in themselves but probably worth a bit in tuning resolution with the Power FC. Total 255 rwkw, that's close enough to allow for dyno, tuning and ambient differences. Fuel, the initial tuning was done on the Shell Optimax control fuel as used by our V8Supercar at the time. It has had a couple of runs since, all pretty much the same on pump Optimax. I have run it on Elf LMS a couple of times, as it was left over from the R32 GTST, makes a bit more on Elf as I can advance the igntion timing a lot. Hope that is of some help

Whiteline can make almost any spring, coil overs are certainly not a problem. All they need is the two main dimensions, being the inside diameter of the coil and the free height. They can then design them up using whatever spring rate you want. They are obviously not "off the shelf" there are simply too many possible combinations. So you may have to wait a week or two while they are made. Hope that helps

Yep, that means full boost is 8.5 psi.

Car is running rich?

R32 or R33?

R34 GTT injectors are smaller in size, I haven't detected any significant difference in their flow rate. If anything they seem to flow slightly more than other RB25DET injectors.

Smaller in size, but not smaller in rate

Thanks for that, where they the same offset as Skylines?

And since most fuel pumps are rated at 73.5 psi, you would only have 8 psi left for boost. That's not much :wassup:

Hi Joe, you can buy an off the shelf ATESSA controller, this enables a variety of torque settings to be selected with 70/30 being one of them. There is one for sale on the forum, check it out....

As far as I know Ben intended to go to an externally wastegated turbo in the progression plan (which he did). So he avoided buying/doing anything that was going to be redundant, I guess the dump and cat fell into that catagory. They did pretty well to get to 230 rwkw with the standard injectors, I have never been able to get much over 210 rwkw.

Hi Roy, I have been thinking about this camshaft tight in the bearings problem. I haven't seen it in an RB engine, but I have in other 6 cylinder DOHC engines. The camshafts are very looooong and I have found 2 that where not straight. Looks like they were in an engine that overheated or had the head torqued down incorrectly. This "bent" the camshafts and they went tight in the bearings. We have had one of the race GTR's lock up an inlet camshaft which may or may not have been as a result of a "bent" camshaft. It is certainly "bent" now, but I can't tell if that was the cause of the problem or the result. So I am suspicious that RB's may not be immune from this problem. So Roy, can I strongly suggest that you get the camshaft checked for straightness before you put it in another head. I am going to get the dial gauge out and check a set of RB26 cams that are destined for one of our RB20's. I will let you know what happens.

And you have to leave some headroom in the fuel pump for boost. :headspin:

Welcome to the exclusive club of Stagea owners, J. I will be interested in the replies as I need to do the same to our radio. Also I might hold off and see how well it works for you. I have heard conflicting reports about FM onverters, from "works great" to "waste of time". You can be the guinea pig for this one......

A few answers.......... Julian "left it out" because the book was written before hand, it took over a year to get published. Autospeed don't sell them because they can't make money out of it ie; Norgren sell them direct. That's actually good for us as consumers. I have seen a couple of VL installations, despite temperature warnings, the valves were mounted rignt next to the exhaust. I mount them inside the cold air box with the airfilter. Maybe the boost build was due to too small a wastegate, or insufficient opening. I have found quite a few that suffered that way, particularly with the standrd VL turbo. Hi flow the wastegate and the problem goes away. The WRX boost control creep is a well known problem, and it occurs with a number of boost controllers. There is probably an installation issue, or some other logical reason, but I don't work on WRX's, so I don't need to find out. In summary, very few boost control issues are SOLELY related to the boost controller, there are usually other reasons. But if you don't like the system streetquick, that's your choice and you are fully entitled to it.

That's right Robo, but if you check the specs, you will find it was running the standard dump, the standard airbox and the compliance cat. Plus it was wheelspinning a little on the dyno, which BTW had not yet been upgraded to run in Shoot Out mode. In addition, I don't know about Lepperfishes car, ours has an electric cooling fan instead of the engine driven one. All in all, I am pretty happy that the results are comparable with a few others of the same spec. :aroused: Sorry I don't know anything about the GCG "spec in between 450 and 500 bhp". Next time I am in there I will ask though. Sorry gotta go, Skyline shocks to be engineered.

My dentist has plenty.

Our R34GTT makes ~265 rwkw, just like Lepperfish's does, I have seen another RB25DET on the dyno do pretty much the same. It's not a freak engine, just well tuned with the right mods. My experience is the same, much over 1.4 bar is a waste of time, just makes more heat for no more power.

Hi SS8_Gohan, they will be the same as the other kits in the Group 4 range. They will have sophisticated valving, capable of handling a good range of spring rates. Plus the adjustment will facilitate compliance for the road and a large range of damping for the track. Because of the combined bump and rebound adjustment, it will not be necessary to run big spring rates to control the chassis. But I wouldn't count on them being available much before Xmas. PS, I now have a set of std R32 GTR shocks. The list at the start of the thread is now up to date. I would really like some for an R33GTR, common guys there must be someone around Sydney who kept their standard shocks.

Hi Sciby, I plumb the oil supply from the main oil gallery that runs down the LHS of the block, just drill a hole, tap it, whack a fitting in it and away you go. But (there is always a BUT) I have yet to find one "go faster" bit for an RB25DET that doesn't fit an RB25DE. What did you have in mind that is unique to RB25DET's?

Hi Guys, I use the Autospeed design(with the Norgren 2 valves) boost controller a lot. It has 2 valves, with one limiting the maximum boost pressure and the other preventing any pressure getting to the wastgate until I want it to. I can adjust the boost build speed to be slower than the turbo specifications can build boost. But I can't make it any faster than the tubo specs allow. So the maximum (fastest) speed of boost build is always limited by the turbo, not the wastegate. For ~$100 is the cheapest and most effective I can find. http://www.autospeed.com/A_0670/cms/article.html Note that, as with ALL boost controllers, having the wastegate actuator spring rate as close to the boost level you run is very important for stable boost.

There are other answers, stuff like the turbo is too small, exhaust has too much backpressure or the intercooler/pipework is too restrictive.

The way I do it is to set the cams up with standard timing as per the crankshaft pulley and the camshaft marks. Then I change it on the dyno with the adj pulleys. I really couldn't give a rats what the timing starts off at. I simply mark the settings with a white paint pen or a pin punch. If I pull it apart for any reason, I just line the marks back up again. Measuring the base camshaft timing with a degree wheel and a dial gauge is not something I enjoy, it takes me longer (I am very slow) than tuning it on the dyno. So I don't bother anymore, it's a waste of my time.