Sydneykid

Wow Jake, your 260RS has a hand handbrake, much better than the foot handbrake on the RSFOUR. :aroused:

Hi Ken, the build date was February 1997 and it's a base model, no woodgrain, no sunroof/s, no sat nav or TV. I picked this one because of the front bumper and headlight design and the blue colour. It needs shocks real bad and it was owned by a smoker (not usual for Japan) so it reaks. But nothing that 2 days with the steam cleaner won't fix. A couple of days geting the scratches polished and/or touched up and the LHS rear (white door) painted, then it will be ready for rego. Add 1 tow bar and away we go.

I think you will find that they are basically 6.017" VG30 rods (RB30 is 6") with the wider big end and bushed for 21 mm gudgeons (VG30 has the bigger 22 mm gudgeon). The Chevy rod (being for a V8) is offset to allow for the shared big end journals. It is possible that Eagle are machining a Chevy rod, but I reckon the VG30 is a better starting point. Good to see Eagle make a "small step for them" and a "large step for us". They are a good rod maker, you should be happy with the results. As for weights, weigh the pistons and rod together and compare that with the standard piston and rod. I think you will find an advantage there.

Belray, shoot that's a name I haven't heard for a long time. Being basically lazy, I prefer the spray on flame retardent oil. I have never used Belray filter oil so I can't really comment.

PM me your email address and I will email it to you, it is in Acrobat format. Is your turbo plain bearing or ball bearing?

Have you checked the thickness of the big end on the rod to make sure it fits the width of the big end journal on the crank? You should also test an RB big end bearing in the rod for entrapment.

I don't know enough about your mods to comment too much, other than 3,000rpm is where you get a boost ramp up. It is past the normal point of swap from closed loop to open. RB's are very sensitive to A/F ratios and ignition timing at that time. It is easy to pick on the dyno with part throttle loadings, spend a little time and you can easily tune it out. Hope that helps

Hi Ben, the advantage the Pipercross design has is the multiple density and thus the vastly greater amount of surface area to hold particles (dust, dirt, grit etc). The differing densities enable the filter to hold different size particles in the most appicable density foam and still let the air flow around them. The single density filters suffer from blockage very quikly in comparison, one big dirt particle completely blocks off that spot on the filter. Single density means that all particles (regardless of their size) must be trapped on the surface of the filter. The Pipercros design allows the larger particles to be trapped in the least dense foam, the next sized particles in the lessor dense and the very fine in the highest density. I have heard all the counter arguements, stuff like the convoluted design means that there is more surface area. But I have examined enough panel filters to know that the troughs do all the work, and the rest of the convolutes block each other from the airflow. Next time you pull out your K&N have a look where all the dirt is. The Pipercross filter oil has flame retardent in its composition, something that others could learn from. As for back to back tests, I have done a few. When the filters are all brand new they flow pretty much the same, but after a few thousand k's the Pirercross design shits on them all, it looses nothing. So that's why I prefer them

Not wishing to argue here, but just support my rule of thumb. I have seen the test data from Nascar done in 1978 that shows a small block Chevy sits at 85% volumetric efficiency. Smokey Yunik in the late 70's also tested a Ford Windsor V8 and ended up at 86%. Since these are both 4 barrel carburetted engines with 2 valves per cylinder and pushrods, I have no problem believing a DOHC 4 valve fuel injected engine isn't going to achieve another 4%. Then we have the now arguably far superior piston ring and bore composition, not to mention the aerodynamic improvement in valve flows. So I will stand by my 90% to 95% rule of thumb, at least until I see tested evidence otherwise from a reputable source.

Why, did I do something bad?

Don't get me wrong I am not saying it's easy, because it isn't. Sometimes loosing the case is not the real issue, what you are trying to do is embarass the Govt. They want to be elected next time, so bad publicity and the opposition spokesperson can be your best weapons. :ak47: You are right, all govt's are "set up to cover their arses" but that is your best tactic, expose their arse. You don't have to kick it, just expose it. :shake: The media will kick it for you.

There are so many answers ot that one, based on, what do you use the car for?

That's about right, I have seen around 565 to 570 cc's out of injectors rated at 550 cc's. So 570 X 80% / 1.34 - 60 = ~300 rwkw Your 312 rwkw is a pretty good effort.

As I said, your plot 3 is the problem, think about how often you go through or stay in the 3,000 to 4,000 rpm area. My rule of thumb for volumetric efficiency on a DOHC 4 valve engine is 90 to 95% depending on what's done. A fresh engine with cams and porting etc is closer to 95%, compared to an old engine with stan'd cams and cast ports that would be closer to 90%. Simple

www.pipercross.net Fabre are the Australian agents Fabre 4 Frazer Street Lakemba NSW Australia 2195 Tel: 6129 758 1966 [email protected] www.fabre.co.au

I don't know what you mean mesh :angel:, the standard GTR cat is good thing, much better than a GTST or compliance cat. I have 2 cars using the stock airbox but with Pipercross panel filters. I could argue with you about why the Pipercross filters are better than the K&N, if you need a :fight!: So that just leaves dumps, as you know I prefer split dumps, but not the HKS shorty style, I prefer mine with longer separation. Not because they give more max power, but because I get better average power out of them. But that's just my opinion.

I bought one last week, it was for sale on the forums.

The Turbonetics is the go, (it has balls) but be carefull of the surge limit. Being capable of 50 lbs per minute of airflow they run very close to the surge line on RB25's when below their efficiency. This is between 0.5 and 1 bar of boost and between 12 and 25 lbs per mimute, namely, where you drive a lot of the time. Have a look at the compressor maps (unlike HKS, Turbonetics make theirs available). Hope that helps

I have done it in NSW, a bunch of us got together and the emissions testing facility was closed for 4 years as a result. I have also "been to court" on a couple of other issues (mostly successful) and I have one on at the moment over Speed Cameras and their maintenance. So I don't just talk about it.

Am I reading this right, the widest tyre is a 225? :headspin:

Simple numbers guys, 480 cc's in a 6 cylinder engine = ~480 bhp. So 480 bhp / 1.34 = 358 kw Less say ~65 kw for drivetrain losses = 293 rwkw. That's at standard fuel pressure, whatever that is for an S15. Knowing Nissan, probably ~38 psi above boost. Hope that helps

If you have the courage and some money. Take Regency to court, I don't care what Act of SA Parliament they operate under, the SA Govt can NEVER EVER take away your rights to Australian Common Law. Make sure what you are fighting them on is 100% legal. Then make a song and dance about it on TV, radio, in the print, everywhere you can. The idea is to embarass the crap out them, the current affairs TV programs just love it. If not then, drive 2.5 hours to Serviceton (just over the border from Bordertown), rent a post box and get the rego transferred to Victoria. Then tell the SA Govt that they are missing out on revenue because of Regency. :upurs: If enough people do either of the above it will change, if I lived in SA I wouldn't complain about it, personally I would do something to change it.

Try reading this thread, the results are using a GCG ball bearing hi flow. I don't know if JJ's use GCG as their turbo supplier. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=46711 It should answer your questions

Best I have seen was 225 rwkw with a Pipercross panel filter in the standard airbox on an R34 GTT. Even that required changing the pipework from the AFM to the turbo as it kept getting sucked closed, that was with the standard air filter though.

Hi, try www.apexi-usa.com 30 degrees is OK in some conditions, but 38 is not. Monitor the knock levels on the Commander, that will tell you if there is too much timing. The Power FC takes some time to "learn" the engine characteristics. Lastly don't drive it too hard with the "out of the box" tuning, get it onto a dyno and, if you do nothing else, check the A/F ratios. Hope that helps