Sydneykid

What ECU do you suggest, keeping in mind that it's an auto?

Oh yeah, it's always my fault:Paranoid:, go right ahead and put shyte on the guy who is simply trying to educate the unwashed. :bonk: Even if they don't want to be educated :talk2hand

1. Yes 2. Yes 3. RB20DET = 270 cc's, RB25DE = don't know, try Meggala's web site 4. Any top feed injector, Rochester, Denso, Jecs, Bosch etc etc. Around 450 cc's will be plenty. The only thing is to make sure you match the impedance with the ECU you are using, standard is high impedance. If the ECU will handle low impedance, then GTR injectors will just about make 400 bhp. Hope that answered your questions

How to fix the handling on your R33 GTST 4 door, well it's all about making sure the maximum amount of tyre is in contact with the road at all times. This is the weak link in Skyline suspension (and most other cars for that matter). They move the contact patch of the tyre around due to the HICAS and camber change and the standard shocks are not very sophisticated in their valving. #1 Remove HICAS #2 Fix suspension geometry (adj camber and caster at the front and adj camber at the rear) #3 Standard springs are OK #4 Upgrade to decent shocks, Konis or Bilsteins or if you have larger budget, Ohlins #5 Have LSD checked, if stuffed go for 1.5 way plate style LSD (Nismo, ATS, Cusco) #6 Front strut brace Stick a set of decent tyres on and the RX7 won't see which way you went. Moving on to front wheel drive, the problem is the front tyres have to handle a large proportion of the braking, all of the steering, carry 60+% of the total weight and do all of the power transfer to the road. So it might go round that corner really fast once or twice, but not so when the front tyres over heat. This is always the problem with our front wheel drive race cars, the front tyres go away. Hope that helps

Compression test is all about consistency, the absolute number is not comparable. Cranking speed, engine temp, ambient temp, battery condition all make a difference. That's why a leak down test is superior, it removes most of the variables.

HiRB26VL, all engines are simple, fuel plus air plus compression plus ignition equals power. The Autronic tells YOU nothing. It instructs the engine what to do, you will never know what the engine is really doing by lookling at the instructions. You have to look at the output. So check them again, one by one. Air first, make sure this is no dead rats in the inlet pipes (I saw it once). Disconnect every thing in front of the compressor inlet and give it a quick run. Fuel next, how old is the fuel in the tank? What is the fuel pressure at the fuel rail on the dyno under load? At idle? At 2000 rpm? At 4000 rpm? At 6000 rpm? What is the igntiion timing, using a timing light? At idle? At 2000 rpm? At 4000 rpm? At 6000 rpm? Checked the boost gauge accuracy? I have seen one read 15 psi instead of 1.5 psi. Disconnect the wastegate actuator feed pipe, by carefull, watch that the boost doesn't get too high. See if it makes any difference. Do a dry leak down test, what are the %'s on each cylinder? Good luck, let me know how you get on.

Hi Bman, is this problem now fixed?

Hi flow turbo would be my next move, with a split dump at the same time (saves taking it off twice).

My guess was going to be a T66 trim compressor, how close was I?

Yo bass, done the exhaust yet? Turbo or cat back? If you have done cat back, then it's time for a ball bearing hi flow.

I checked my posts, it's all English to me! Where did I go wrong?

But very exclusive! :wassup:

Sorry gotta go now :ak47: Maybe back later

Hint #3, it goes from 1.75kw to 5.5kw (assuming each divide is 1kw) in 34 kph, that's a very user unfriendly ~1,250 rpm. :shake:

Hint #2, it makes bugger all boost up to ~4,000 rpm. :thumbdwn:

I have been bribed, :alcoholic so I will give hints...... Hint #1, it makes power to 220 kph, that's ~8,000 rpm. Bugger chopped off the graph but it looks like it will go to 8,500rpm with not much drop off. :aroused:

Short answers. 1. VL rods are 6" (152.5 mm) while RB25/26 rods are 4.8" (121.5 mm). If you want your pistons 15.5 mm down the bore, then I suppose you could use RB25/26 rods in an RB30, but the comression ratio would sure be low. RB30 rods will handle up to ~500 bhp standard, just use a set of ARP rod bolts. 2. I don't understand the question. Simple answer though, spend a coupla hundred bucks and stick a set of RB26 cams in the R32 RB25DE head, they fit straight in. No VVT on R32 RB25DE's. 3 Standard VL bore is 86 mm, with the standard 85 mm stroke, that gives 2,964 cc's. Personally I wouldn't go bigger than 87.5 mm bore which gives 3,068cc's. Some people reckon even that is too far, you should only go to 86.5 mm (2,998 cc's). I think I covered all I could understand anyway.

7 + 7 = 7 14 + 14 = 14 It's simple maths. :cooldance

Huhuhuh :wassup: you're a bad :devfu: man vspecv! : :bonk: I can't even tell whether the RH axis is boost or A/F ratio :headspin: Oh, OK it's AF ratio then :fart: And the RH Axis is torque, the bottom scale is 0, so it makes negative torque at any KPH lower than 94. That means it sucks power :looney: I got it! I got it! :idea: But I ain't telling, don't worry :Paranoid: your secret is safe with me:wavey:

Oh no Jason not at all, :wassup: it's just when you post a question at 11.48 pm and then complain when you haven't got an answer by 8.02 am. I do sleep sometimes you know :zzz:

I would REALLY like to see a picture of the manifold. PLEASE!

Hi Merli, I didn't really specifically choose the cams, they were available at the time at right price. I was really more interested in the higher lift (and lower price), than the small diff in duration. :cooldance I have heard and read that longer duration inlet is better for the reasons you put. And they certainly sound valid. I have also heard and read that longer duration exhaust is better, based on the fact that the inlet is under direct boost and the exhaust isn't. So you have to run longer duration on the exhaust to match. I have also heard and read that a longer duration inlet cam makes the engine lumpy, so its not a matter of running a LONGER exhaust duration, but in fact running a SHORTER inlet duration. :confused: There are plenty of arguments either way, I really have no idea which is correct as I haven't done or seen a proper comparison. I suspect that there may be a boost threshold where the longer inlet duration argument has substance. But I have no proof, it's just a suspicion. :headspin: Most of the engines I am involved with, I suggest the same duration for both inlet and exhaust cams. Maybe that's the right answer.

Shoot Merli, you really have got it

Did we loose some posts here? :headspin:

I HAVE to agree with Steve-SST, an ECU is a package, you just can't simply pick out 2 features and say it is better because of those. :headspin: Let me choose one for comparison, a PFC with Commander is going to be 1/4 the cost of a Autronic and a lap top. If I have a "free" lap top, then I can add a Datalogit to the PFC, still less than 1/2 the cost. How much extra did the auto tune really cost? Software, wiring, F&W lambda, tuning time etc etc. You get nothing for nothing. I have used Autronics in a number of cars, BMW Supertourer, Commondoor (all of Larry's customer cars came with Autronics) etc. They are a great ECU for particular purposes, not EVERY purpose. Horses for courses