Sydneykid

Sounds like R34 springs, they are smaller diameter coils than R33. I am not going to change the springs on ours, unless I find them too soft. I will simply lower it with the circlip height on the Konis. The question now is R33 or R34 shocks? :confused:

Stagea insured for $20K with NRMA was $2.4K, for me. I have 4 cars insured with them, all on 65% NCB, house and contents policies, 4 geenslip policies etc. Guess who is not going to get my Stagea insurance? :wassup: Thanks for the tips guys, I emailed off a quote request to Shannons yesterday. Just Cars will get a call today.

Hi Jezzrrr, that's 20 to 25 RWKW, not AWKW. I have never tested a roller dyno and a hub dyno back to back on a high power 4WD, like I have 2WD. I suspect just doubling the RWKW difference to get AWKW difference would be a bit pessimistic. I reckon 35 to 40 AWKW might be closer. So 395 AWKW subtract 40 AWKW = 355 AWKW. That's still a damn good result

You got it

My own RB31DET has 268 inlet and 272 exhaust both with 10.5mm lift.

Hi Joel, 256 @ 9.7mm and 264 @ 9.7mm is a good combination, if tuned properly it will make power and run very nice with that combo. As for cam timing all engines are different, I start at 1-2 degrees advanced on the inlet timing and 3-4 degrees retarded on the exhaust. The exhaust timing makes the most obvious difference to the power, but don't ignore the inlet. It helps the response as well. Hope that helps

Sorry, I was asleep.

Yes, you lose power under 80 degrees.

I have a Q45 AFM in front of me, it has three pins, they are marked "B D E" above the plug on the body of the AFM. The "B" is closest to the AFM inlet and the "E" closest to the outlet. The plug wiring is as follows; The white wire goes to B The black wire goes to D The red wire (with black stripe) goes to E The part number is 22680 61U00 A36-000 P60 903F, label is Yellow and this one was made by Jecs (Made in Japan). I can send you a photo in high res if you need, PM me your email address.

I have had a few PM’s about this topic, so I hope this thread can be easily referred to later on. The basic problem seems to be a number of people are disappointed with their results, I quite often get asked stuff like, ”my car has 300 rwkw and yet I can’t do the times that a 250 rwkw car is doing”. When I dig deeper I find that no consideration was given to matching the power characteristics of the engine with the rest of the car, most particularly its gearing. :thumbdwn: The principle of matching engine power curves to gearbox ratios is based on ensuring that you don’t end up with an engine that has a power band that does not match the gearing. The most common limiter is usually the first and second gear ratios. ie; the other ratios in the gearbox are usually closer together than 1st and 2nd. :idea: The basic formula is pretty simple; Engine rpm divided by the gear ratio = gearbox output (or tailshaft) rpm divided by the diff ratio = diff output (or driveshaft/axle) rpm multiplied by the circumference of the tyre multiplied by 60 (minutes in an hour) divided by 1,000 (metres in a kilometre) = kph Let’s try a simple one…………. 7,000 rpm engine divided by 1st gear ratio 3.4 = 2,059 rpm gearbox output (or tailshaft) rpm divided by 4.11 diff ratio = 501 rpm diff output (or driveshaft/axle) rpm multiplied by 2.0 m (circumference of a 245/45/17 tyre) multiplied by 60 (minutes in an hour) divided by 1,000 (metres in a kilometre) = 60 kph So in this particular car you are doing 60 kph at 7,000 rpm in first gear. At the time you change into 2nd gear the speed is the same. So what rpm does the engine drop down to? :confused: Basically, we just use the formula in reverse; 60 kph Multiplied by 1,000 (metres in a kilometre) Divided by 60 (minutes in an hour) Divided by 2 (circumference of a 245/45/17 tyre) Multiplied by 4.11 (diff ratio) Multiplied by 2.2 (2nd gear ratio) = 4,250 rpm This means you have to have an engine that has a power band at least 2,750 rpm wide ie; has good average power from 4,250 to 7,000 rpm. Changing the diff ratio does not help this, nor does changing tyres sizes, regardless of KPH, the gap is always 2,750 rpm. This is because the diff ratio is the same for 1st and 2nd gears, ditto the tyre diameter. The only way to make a difference is to change the gearbox ratios by making 1st gear ratio higher (numerically) and/or second gear lower ie; make the ratios closer together.. Hence the term “close ratio transmission”, or in Janglish “cross mission”. :headspin: Hope that answered the questions.

Hi Joel, I would go with 256 inlet and 264 exhaust, I have seen this (longer duration exhaust) work on a number of GTR's. What's the lift on each cam? My RB31DET has 268 inlet and 272 exhaust, both at 10.5mm lift.

That's the import bit in the whole thread, remove the wastegate completely and boost still climbs!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is only one answer (gtrken is spot on), the manifold pipework to the wastegate presents more of a restriction than the turbo. So the exhaust continues to go throught the turbine. On a large turbo, like a GT35R, this is very possible. A smaller turbo with more turbine restriction wouldn't have such a problem. My suggestion would be to change the design of the wastegate pipe, most particularly where it joins the collector, and free up the airflow to the wastegate. Maybe even fit two wastegate pipes from the collector and then join them at the wastegate. Hope that helps PS, I would mind seeing some pictures of the exhaust manifold design, I have heard of this 3rd hand, but never actually seen it happen.

Honestly S7, I have no idea. :headspin: I have never tried a set of GT-SS's. Looking at their spec I would say they sit somewhere in between 2510's and 2530's. I have tried 2510's and they were great on a road car, but went a little flat over 6,500 rpm in the higher gears (3,4,5). The 2530's seemed not to loose much in the lower rpm, but didn't start to run out of airflow until 7,500 rpm in the high gears. Like everyone else I await the GT-SS results :wassup:

HICAS only works on rear toe angles, so nothing else is affected.

Subtract about 20 to 25 rwkw to get Dyno Dynamics (roller) comparison.

Looking at your mods list (noting the great choice of 2530's), the Power FC would be my preference. For less than half what the Autronic would cost, wired and tuned. Have a look at any of the PFC versus other ECU's threads, the Wolf is probably the best comparison. All the advantages of the PFC are listed.

The grind is stamped into the camshafts. There are timing and lift numbers on each cma.

Sorry for the second post, I forgot to mention this one /| That's the AFM "correction" table, the actual ramp table (algorithm) for the AFM's is not visible. What you do with the correction table is match an unlisted AFM with one that is listed. You select the closest one in the list to what you are trying to match and then use the correction table to line them up. You do a basic tune of the car with a listed AFM and then fit the unlisted AFM and use the correction table to line up the maps using the map tracer. Hope that made some sense

Not "complete" retune, but the readings are quite different between the 80 mm and 90 mm AFM's. It seems to work out about "half" a tune (timewise).

Hi 51Jay, our adjustable Koni Sports (yellow) are gas. Koni (red) are sometimes gas, sometime not, depends on application. I don't think Whiteline still use DMS, its my understanding that they now have their own, made in Europe to their specs. Re anti squat, where have you placed the rear pinapples, the small ones above the subframe (between the mounts and the body)? Front or rear of the sub frame?

Whiteline choose the most applicable shock for the task required of it. So some kits have Konis some have Bilsteins, some have Whiteline's own European made shocks.

And that is why it won't go over 70 degrees, the thermostat is opening. :uh-huh: Plus it is summer time in Scotland, if it was winter the water would be frozen anyway. :jk:

Hi Jeremy; suggestions follow, not in any particular order; Tow out on the rear is not desirable, it's easily adjusted to zero, or even a little toe in on a high powered car Tow out on the front is, likewise, not desirable on a road car, it's easily adjusted to zero. Is there any front castor measurement? It is very important. :confused: It would be better if the camber on the front was equal or even a little bit more on the left. I am very particular about wheel alignment settings, it's a circuit race thing. We align the car every time it races. :Paranoid: Hope that helps

I guess you could say our RSFour is just an automatic GTR (4wd) waggon with an RB25DET. It's the only 4wd blocked RB25DET (R33 GTS4's are RB25DE). Pretty unique in a number of ways and there are heaps of things I would like to know, stuff that a Skyline owner may not be interested in. What size wheels will fit? How do you upgrade the brakes? What shocks (are they GTST, GTR or GTS4)? Do they have HICAS? Ours is a "34" but it doesn't have a Neo. Where did you get your towbar from? What's the towing capacity? What brand and number of cross links on the roof racks? It would be simply a place for the Stagea owners to talk about stuff that may (or may not) be unique.

Thermostat?