Sydneykid

Hi RS73, from what I can see it will make absolutely no difference to the performance of the intercooler. The lower fin row does basically nothing, it is mostly there as a spacer to the lower separation rail. Pressure test is easy, tape up one outlet really well. Put the vacuum cleaner on blow (instead of suck) and connect it to the other oulet, tape it up well to seal it as good as you can, doesn't have to be perfect. Then stick the intercooler in the bath tub with enough water to cover it, you don't cover the outlet with the vacuum cleaner tub it it. Turn the vacuum cleaner on and look for bubbles around the damage. If you want to tidy it up out for asthetics, the first job is to straighten the lower separation rail then straighten up the fins. I use a thick piece of wire and poke it between the fins then pull the rail straight, bit by bit, take your time. When the rail is roughly straight then it is time to straighten the fins. I use a fine pick and a pair of tweezers, its a slow and easy job. When the fins are OK I sometimes have to go back and straighten the rail some more. Don't rush and take your time, I do it lots, race and rally cars get their intercoolers hit by stuff all the time. Repairing them is compulsory, as it would send you broke replacing them every time they had a bit of superficial damage. Hope that helps

Why?

Power FC would be my choice and with a decent intercooler and fuel pump there is no reason why 225 rwkw (300 rwhp) would not be easily obtained. With larger injectors and an AFM upgrade (to Z32) 250-260 rwkw (350 rwhp) is there for the taking. There are pleny of threads on this sort of upgrade path, do a search, I am sure you will find all that you need to know.

A standard internals RB26 with R34 GTR N1 turbo's tuned via a Power FC with apropriate support systems and other upgrades made 332 rwkw. I am sure there are others with better results around.

Typical Mines ECU, stable A/F ratios but simply too rich. They need to be between 12 and 12.5, not mid 11's. The ignition timing will be similar, solid but too retarded. Did you get a boost graph?

No car that clean ever goes fast, it might get hit with bugs. :wassup: Better to go slow and not have as big a splat. :spew:

It is hardly an RB25 if it is stuffed with RB26 internals.:confused:

The GTR cams are a mild upgrade that don't cost too much. Good bang for your buck. When you get into aftermarket cams the costs are substantially higher. Not just for cams themsleves, but valve springs, convert solid to hydraulic followers, machine head for lobe clearance etc. Suddenly it is not such good value as for the same money you can buy more effective upgrades. Plus an RB20 is 2 litres and the larger cams you put in the more rev happy you needo be

I understand where you are coming from Merli, but I think it is pretty obvious when you read this thread (and other current threads) that there are a number of people who think that more boost always = more power. There are plenty that know otherwise, maybe I am guilty of being the only one who says so or who says so too often. But it is hard to hold back when I am getting a bit sick of reading about BOOST BOOST BOOST all the time. :spew: So I appologise if it seems as though I am preaching from some higher plain, but maybe it is worse if I just simply shut up and let the myths continue. It's your call, tell me and I will stop

Hi Scooby, If you want to do a number of upgrades all at once, then chipping the standard ecu is OK value. If you want to a number of upgrades over time (tuning in between) then the PFC is much cheaper.

Hi Guys does anyone know the part number of the 13B and 20B injectors? I have found a set of 550 cc injectors that are side feed supposedly from a "Mazda". The part number is OF555-425 with a batch code of A40-00. The suspicion is based on the colour, they are red'ish brown, not purple as in the Silvia guide above.

Nah tried the monkey, types OK but butt ugly :thumbdwn: . I find the wench :boobs: much better. Dictating from the recliner is OK, but I am not into cigars, I prefer a glass of red instead, :alcoholic

Hi guys, I don't understand this maniacal concentration on boost levels. Airflow makes power not boost, boost is simply a measure of resistance to airflow. The idea is to increase the airflow, I really don't give a rat's what happens to the boost. :talk2hand An example, by fitting longer duration, higher lift cams in an engine you have lowered the resistance, therefore lowered the boost at the same airflow. Ditto upgraded dump, engine pipe, exhaust, air filter, porting etc etc. The answer is not how much boost you make at ~3,500 rpm, but how much power you make at ~3,500 rpm. To elaborate, by improving the airflow I could have more power at ~3,500 rpm using 2530's in one engine but have less boost than another engine with standard airflow (resistance) and GTSS's. Does that mean the 2530's are not as responsive as the GTSS's? I don't think so Tim!

I would swap them over between runs, but I like to test stuff. :aroused:

Sizes?

Stick the multimeter on the AVCR MAP sensor and read of the current draw.

I have seen about 4 Mines ECU's and all were very rich and not particularly aggressive in their tune. No speed cut was good, raised rev limit was a waste of time, boost cut removed was good, otherwise not such a good thing. :thumbdwn:

RB25/26/30 all have 21 mm gudgeon pins.

Hi White R32, you rang? I usually start at 1 to 2 degrees advanced on the inlet and 3 to 4 degrees retarded on the exhaust.

Yes, it is the pressure sensor for input to the boost correction table. Both the standard ECU and a Power FC use it. I understand it is both vacuum and boost, I haven't seen more than 1.3 bar on the Commander read out. It may go higher though. I don't see any problems as long as the current required by whatever it is you are building stays low (milliamps). I would use the AVCR boost sensor as long as it records vacuum OK. Hope that helps

Yep only on R32's, R33's and R34's (especially) don't repond as well and have softer wastegte actuator springs.

14.7 psi = 1 bar

Hi oofoofoo, I bought (on the Skylines Downunder Forum) a used R32 GTST Power FC 2 years ago, no problems. Had it checked with a Datalogit software as I had heard about other R32 GTST ECU's coming with locked maps, mine was OK. I have since bought a Commander (on the Skylines Australia Forum) and my own Datalogit system (direct). Works great, highly recommended.

Hi Driver, R34 GTT 12 psi for 5 laps at Wakefield Park and one ceramic turbine in the cat. :spew: That's with a good intercooler (R33 GTR), good tune (not by me), oil cooler (Earls), POD with good ambient air intake (by me), standard dump with hi flow cat and 3" exhaust (HKS) and a GTR fuel pump. It wasn't being pushed super hard at the time either. I can give similar examples, the HPI R34 did the same thing and I have personally seen 3 X R33 GTST's with the similar results at supposedly "safe" boost limits. Bottom line, I wouldn't go over 10 psi for any extended periods. :Paranoid:

Hi snip, I am interested in the wastegate if the mounting flanges are both the same. They need to be square with 85 mm diagonals (centre of bolt to the diagionally opposite centre of bolt). I will pay your price of $380 plus postage, if it is the right one. mobile 0419 411 282 email [email protected] Regards Gary