Sydneykid

I'm with Mesh, 1 bar is rule of thumb we use.

Power shmower! The point of the shorter pipework is to reduce the amount of air in the inlet system at any point in time. This improves the response, the more air in the system the more doughey the engine feels. You really need to read the thread on "Intercooler Matching".

I agree with Steve , upgrading the injectors is essential for your power target. I have done a lot of step by step upgrade work on a few RB25s' and I haven't been able to get safe A/F ratios with standard injectors over 225 rwkw. I have had to fix too many engines when people rolled the dice :boohoo:

Ahh yes, but the percentage loss is a low percentage. :headspin: Plus you need to remember that energy can neither be gained nor lost (Newton), it is simply transformed into other forms of energy. In this case, basically heat. So you need to ask yourself, where does all that extra heat go? To answer JayDee's original question, the 4wd losses are around 70 rwkw at standard power. BTW the 206 kw is a bit of a furphy :bs!: I reckon it's more like 226 kw for an R32 GTR. PS; Yes, I know about E=MC2 (Einstein) but I assume no atomic reactions when doing my power loss calculations :microwave

It is interesting how even very skilled people can have differing opinions and experiences. I have seen 86 mm (standard) bores with cracks as well, I don't believe that the bore size is the only reason. Temperature management, machining tolerances, metallurgy, boost pressure and parts used have as much to do with it as arbitrarily limiting bore sizes. Plus we never use "new" blocks, I much prefer an aged one. The more heat cycles they have seen, the higher chance there is that any manufacturing (and casting) stresses are long gone. I like it when people have differing opinions, makes for an interesting discussion.

I've re read my posts in this thread, I can't see where I had "a go" at anyone. I simply asked a few questions. :angel:

Hi riceline, easy answer... 350 rwkw = 470 rwhp 470 rwhp + 80 bhp (losses) = 550 bhp In a 6 cylinder injector cc's = bhp so 420 cc's = 420 bhp Obviously the 550 cc injectors are a much better choice for 350 rwkw. Hope that helped

Simplistically a single plate clutch, to hold say 500 bhp, has to have a much higher clamping pressure than a twin plate to hold the same 500 bhp. The reason is that there is twice as much surface (friction) area to transfer the torque in a twin plate. So if you have found other twin plates harder to drive then that would be because; 1. Maybe they are set up to handle much greater torque loadings than the single platers you are comparing them to 2. They are set up to suite a particular requirement, not what they are being used for ie; quick change, no slip competition 3. They do take some time to get used to, with twice the friction area they are quite different in feel 4. There are types of twin plates (solid centre, puck, ceramic, cermatallic etc) just like there are different types of single plates. Not one type suites all. The reality is once you get to a certian power level you really have no choice, a multiplate clutch is a must. So the best you can do is choose the one that suites your own requirements and preferences.

I prefer the 120 degree bend at the throttle body style, no fan shroud trimming, less heat soak and shorter pipe for better throttle response.

Ohh give me a break! That's simply not true. I bought a Jap kit and there is no way it could have been fitted by someone without a hole saw, a nibbler and by buying several "extra parts". Apparently "my model" had the power steering cooler in a different location than the model the kit was designed to fit. Despite the fact that it quite plainly said in the brochure that it fitted "my model". Plus I wanted to run the standard airbox, but there is no way the pipework could be used with the standard airbox in place. :confused: So, ever since, I have made up my own pipework, that way I get it the way I want it, in the size that I want, made in the material I want. Plus I prefer the 120 degree bend at the throttle body style and I have yet to fit a Japanese kit that does that. I buy the necessary bends, mark them up and then take it to an aluminium welder for welding up. They also have a lipper for pipe ends, it's not a very expensive bit of gear nor are they unique these days. As for...... If you have a GTST or GTT and stick to the (same model) GTR pipework holes stamped in the panels this is simply not true. That is why they are stamped, it is recognised as being a non-structural area and has been designed that way by Nissan. Otherwise the equivalent GTR would be compromised structurally. :idea: Doing it yourself is not for everyone, but neither is buying a "kit".

Be careful Roy, having been to the States a number of times, I can tell you that the 1/4 times are more of a result of track conditions and set up than they are engine power. I have seen a car in Japan that couldn't get under a 9, do an 8.4 first meeting up in the States. No change in engine power. Having said that, I have a Turbonetics turbo going on one of our cars very soon. :aroused:

Only done 11 engines that bore size, no problems so far.

When circuit racing one should care about centre of gravity, why on earth would you have a high mount turbo? :thumbdwn: Secondly, high mount = front mount. Why on earth would you have a high/front mount turbo when you can have a low/rear mount? There is no difference in power for the same size turbo. :bond:

It takes about the same amount of time to do it in the car, but there are no complications or risks. It is pretty hard to get the wiring wrong or damage the clutch if you don't take them out. I strongly suggest you jack up the car and have a look for yourself. Basically everything under and/or attached to the sump unbolts, so you remove all that stuff and there is easy access to the sump itself. My suggestion is to have a chat to a few workshops. Try www.hioctaneracing.com.au if the Performance Metalcraft site doesn't work, same people.

Sorry I don't understand, you can buy an intercooler pipework kit for an aftermarket intercooler but you can't buy one for a GTR intercooler that goes in the same place? :confused:

Mr Bean is spot on, that is why there are $100 lambda sensors, $400 lambda sensors and $1K+ lambda sensors. We have $1K+ lambda sensors fitted as close to the turbo as we can get, that way we get fast response to changes. The long travel though the exhaust pipe slows down the results and you have to wait a few seconds after every change to see the result of the tuning change. Those few seconds can be dangerous if you are pushing the envelope. Plus if the lambda sensor is too close to the exhaust outlet you can get distorted readings as some atmosphere sneaks in. Unfortunately this is one case where you definitely get what you pay for.

Well at least it wasn't .......... sydneykid -> :kick: : <-rb25

They missed RB20DE and RB20DET and RB30ET. :slap:

Hi Guys, we have fitted a Performance Metalcraft upgraded GTR sump without removing the engine. It took a (long) day for 2 guys to do on the hoist. It has raced on every circuit in NSW and a few in Vic since it was done. I have not seen any oil pressure movement on the data log in over 2 years. www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

We have several 900+ bhp engines with 87.5 mm bores.

This is an interesting thread guys. Can I make a suggestion on how to fix the HKS versus Garrett design argument. :idea: Ring up HKS and ask to speak to the Manager of the turbo aerodynamics department. The girl on the switch is very nice and speaks English pretty well. :boobies2: See if you get the same response as I did. :ufo: The phone number (from memory) is 0011 81 544 291111

Hi hoo@h, if you are looking for up to 300 rwkw then a standard R33/34 GTR intercooler is very hard to beat.

What is the part number on them?

Hi docile33, suggestions follow; *ECU Power FC is good, allow for Z32 AFM *Turbo Garrtett GT3040 external gate :aroused: *Exhaust manifold The standard one has to go:thumbdwn: *Cams Tomei Pocams, work with VVT, don't need adj pulley. *550cc inj and new fuel rail OK, they will do the job *044 pump OK, plenty of capacity *600x300x90 fmic What type, B&P or T&F and what brand? What size pipework? *brass button clutch Personally I wouldn't trust a single plate clutch to do an 11 in a GTST. Plus brass button centre is very agressive. I would look at an OS Giken twin plate. :aroused: *hks / trust type r bov Irrelevant *dump pipe What type, split of combined? What diameter exhaust pipework? *relocated throtle bory to front of plenum Yuk, why? :spew: *ebc It's your money. *later maybe forgies If the tuning is not spot on, maybe earlier (not later) :Paranoid: *Tyres Nittos or Goodyear drag radials *Suspension Whiteline springs and Koni shocks, keep the rear spring rate low. :uh-huh: My 20 cents worth

The N1 pump is actullay low flow, for sustained hi rpm.