Sydneykid

Volumetric efficiency for one of those is in mid 80's, an RB is in the low 90's. So 10% either way, play with the forumla 4800 X (2600 X 95%) / (3800 X 85%) = 3,650 rpm. You bin listening to that Holden BS :bs!: The block, crank, conrods, heads, pushrods :wassup: etc were all designed in the 60's. It's not a new engine just because they stick a fancy pulley on the front and add a couple of bolts to stop the crank falling out the bottom. :throwup:

One of the new weights fell off, happens all the time. Worth checking.

:wassup: Doh, around the shock shaft there is a rubber (polyurethane) blob. Which stops the shock compressing too far and smashing itself to bits, internally. :nowigetit Anybody tried a set of these;

Balance the tyres, it's a good place to start.

Different part number, due to different gudgeon pin heights in the pistons.

Hi BBenny, what are you using to adjust your A/F ratios? Regardless of the idle problems you will have to tune them for higher rpms.

Hi Matt and others, no way it is torqque settings, the cams would have seazed in the head by now if the clearances were so tight that it affected the idle. Plus it would not be possible to rotate the camshaft by hand at all. The torque setting is low, 8-10 ft lbs from memory. Our RB20 has a Power FC on it, and I did a few things at once when I changed the cams. Ignition timing is critical, I marked the crank pulley before I pulled it appart and then reset the CAS so the timing was exactly back on that mark. I was confident in my work so I just drove it around for a day or so, it was a bit rough but it settled down. I had to fiddle with the idle rpm aim table on the Commander, I don't remember adjusting the fuel until we stuck it on the dyno. It wouldn't hurt to try taking mucking around with the fuel via your SAFC or ecu if you can. It should need leaning out at low rpm, if anything. So I would start there. You can test this theory by trying it without an airfilter or intorduce a leak in one of the vacuum pipes. Just stick your finger over the open end and gradually open the gap, if the idle improves then leaner is the go. Hope that helps

The last sentence almost covered it, I have personal experience with an R32 GTST with a 225 rwkw RB20DET and then a 225 rwkw RB30DET. I can tell you the RB20 was very hard to get off the line consistently. It was wheelspin or bog down and they were separated by 1 poofteenth of throttle. If I got blocked by another car, it was davasting on the lap times. Drive (power on/off) through corners was very tricky with other cars around. On the other hand the RB30 was so easy, you could roll on and off the throttle and it would make diddly squat difference. Give it a squezze and away it went. So it has nothing to do with "huge power", even at the same max power there is a world of difference. Like you, I have all the bits, but I haven't done it for that reason.

Hi help. let's start with dynos, the most popular is Dyno Dynamics with Shoot Out Mode software. If you are not using the same, then the comparisons are difficult to say the least. 386 rwhp is 288 rwkw using the usual "divide by 1.34" method. I don't have a "formula" for working out spool rates, I just use experience on what we have seen in the real world. I can extrapolate that accross different engines and engine capacities. It is not perfect though. As for what's wrong, let's start with exhaust, you didn't mention it? Intercooler? Pipework? Also I have a rule of thumb that says over 300 rwkw = upgraded camshafts, have you done them? Without a graph of boost and A/F ratios, I am stuggling to suggest much else.

As long as the spring rates aren't too far different shouldn't be a problem.

Hi OMP, crankshaft end float is caused by worn thrust bearings, you can replace them without removing the engine from the car. Take off sump, remove main bearing craddle, and rotate the half moon shaped thrust bearings (2) in. They will push (rotate) the worn ones out at the same time. Done it a few times, works a charm. It is sometimes casused by the clutch having too much thrust. If you replace the clucth thrust plate it may not happen again. Hope that helps

Bloody miracle I'd say. I have never seen a standard R33 ECU produce A/F ratios anywhere near that good. Ignoring the speed limiter, are you sure it's a standard ECU?

The 45 degree elbow came with the manifold, but it is easy to make, any exhaust shop could do it. You can buy the wastegate flanges from any turbo shop already plasma cut, then the exhaust shop simply joins (welds) them up with a 45 degree mandrel bend. You use a HKS flange (pattern) for the manifold and you need to decide what wastegate you want, so you can get the right flange for it. The heatshield is pretty much just a flat sheet of stainless steel with holes in it to line up with the threaded bumps. Hope that helps

1960's actually, it's a Buick design. :throwup: Simplistic formula, but is never very far out............. 4,800 rpm X 2,600 cc's / 3,800 cc's= 3,250 rpm

Hi guys, I have one of these exhaust manifolds for an RB26 exhaust port stud pattern . It is definitely turbo low mount and wastegate high mount. Roy is right (AGAIN?). :headspin: See the threaded bumps sticking out of one side of the pimary pipes? They are for mounting the heat shield. The heat shield goes on the top and the turbo goes on the opposite side to them (note the split flange/pulse). Thus the turbo goes on the bottom. :cooldance The round holed flange, on the top (same as the heat shield) is the wastegate mount. Mine has a 45 degree elbow mounted there and the wastegate mounts to the elbow. It clears an R32 GTR bonnet easily. I strongly suggest you make up a heat shield (stainless steel is good) to mount to the manifold or get it ceramic coated inside and out. Ditto the wastegate pipes, wrap or ceramic coat. These manifolds work very well, they have increased secondary pipe ID where the primary pipes join. Plus they keep the rear 3 cylinders separated from the front 3 until the turbine. If you have a split pulse turbo they work even better. :wassup: Hope that helps

Hi R32 GT, RB26 standard crank and rods are the go, used with 82 mm pistons they give 2,335 cc's. :aroused: The reason why you are beating many RB25's, is not that they are RB25's. It is because they are usually in R33 GTST's that weigh a lot more than a R32 GTST. Given equal car weight, a 300 rwkw RB25 will be faster than a 300 rwkw RB20 because the RB25 will have higher average power. Try a 300 rwkw RB31DET and you will get smashed. Max power is only one measure, and it is far from the "best" measure at that. I have all the bits necessary to make an RB24DET, and I might get around to it one day. But the reason I haven't to date, is because it was cheaper and easier to get 300+ rwkw out of an RB31DET. And it has a shoot load higher average power than I could ever get out of an RB24DET. But don't let anyone talk you out of it, if you really want to do it. You just need to be aware of the choices.

Hi Roy, we use a DC fans on the race cars, but they all have large PWR radiators. They never go slow in stop, start traffic with the air con on either.

Hi bbenny, check the clearances (feeler gauges) between the cam lobes and the buckets, if there is a bent valve you should see large clearances that the hydraulics can't take up. If it is not missing, then I doubt this is an issue. You really need a timing light to confirm the ignition timing. Have you tried advancing the CAS and seeing what effect it has on the idle? We usually have to run a bit more advanced igntion timing at low rpm with aftermarket cams.

Parrallel coils springs (as in coil overs) are easier and cheaper to buy than tappered coil springs as in standard Skyline. Plus they are available in lots of different springs rates. All you need to know is the ID of the coil and the free (unloaded) height, then order away. We use Whiteline (direct from Whiteline) or Eibach (from Heasmans). Hope that helps some more

Hi BBENNY, I takes a while for the ECU to learn the new airflow requirements. An ECU reset might help as well. Does it run OK? If you open the throttle a little, does it keep running? Make any noises? Starts OK? No hydraulic tappet noises? Backfiring? If that all checks out, take it for a drive. Any damage is already done anyway.

I don't think this is off topic for this thread, but I apologise in advance if others think that it is. Hang on Steve, I never said HKS turbos and Garret turbos were the same turbo. :innocent: I said Garrett make HKS's turbos, and I asked I also asked about That is not saying that they are the "same". As for HKS spending hundreds of thousands of dollars doing R&D, when I see a picture of HKS's aerodynamic department or buy a turbo or a turbo part actually made by HKS (not Garrett), then I might have some reason to agree. But I have never seen anything, anywhere in magazines, brochures, personal visits, pictures, videos or DVD's to support that HKS do ANY turbo work at all. For example, all the CAD drawings of HKS turbos I have seen have been done by Garrett. :angel: Secondly, HKS don't publish compressor maps, why do you think that is? :confused: Don't give me the crap about protecting their intellectual property from copiers. If anyone wanted to copy a HKS turbo it would be much easier and cheaper to just go and buy one. My personal opinion is they don't publish compressor maps because it would be so easy to compare them to Garrett (who do publish compressor maps). Maybe we would all find out that there isn't any real difference, and that would kill HKS's inflated margins. :cuss: Finally, why is it that magazines all over the world avoid back to back testing of HKS and Garrett turbos? Maybe it's because if they did, HKS would never advertise in their :uzi: magazines again. They do some Trust versus HKS, or Apexi, or Blitz etc but never HKS versus an equivalent Garrett. :throwup: Anyway that's my 20 cents worth, :wavey:

Checked the igntion timing?

I have seen 3 of their cars die, smokey deaths at that. :wavey: But hey when you have a warehouse full of spares, does it really matter? At their cost, it probably works out cheaper to keep replacing standard engines than building a decent one. :wassup:

I am not trying to kill Afros sales. :fart: "Cast" means the alloy is pored into a mold using gravity or a bit of pressure over a length of time. The rims can then sometimes be heat treated to make them stronger. It is a compromise between making them strong but not to brittle. Softer rims are easier to repair by maching or rolling, some can even be welded. "Forged" means that very high pressure is used to sqeeze the alloy into shape, very rapidly. They are very hard and strong, slightly more brittle and not easy to re-roll or machine. "Anodised" is an acid etching style of process where the alloy is dipped into a bath and the etch changes the colour of the surface. This is very durable surface and very light, there is no weight of paint. But they can't be easily re-coloured as they have to be totally dipped into the anodising solution. "Painting" is well painting, the alloy is sprayed with paint (or powder coated) and generally baked in a oven. The paint is a couple of mm thick so it adds weight to the rim. But it is easy to repaint the whole rim or touch up damaged bits. Hope that helps

Hi Guys, We use a lot of the Autospeed dual (Norgren) valve style, for around $100 they give both max boost adjustment and a rate of boost climb adjustment. Boost stability is rock solid and rate is linear. Here is the relevant article..... http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/A_0670/article.html We also always upgrade the wastegate spring rate, as Busky2K posted. Electronic or manual boost controllers always have problems with boost stability when there is a big difference between the spring rate and the boost target. Every car I have seen with an EBC has had problems sometime in its life, the more sophisticated they are (eg; learning) the harder it is to trouble shoot problems. You have a problem, you try a solution and the damn EBC learns the new set up and you don't know whether it was the problem or not. So Adzmax, I would do a more detailed search and you will find lots of posts from people trying to research their EBC problems. Hope that helps