Sydneykid

Basically that's because there is no one answer. I have 5 cars and they have different tyres on them. One I driver everyday in city traffic, so they have to be quiet and comfortable. One is a Sunday morning car, so I don't care how long the tyres last, grip in dry conditons is all that matters. I don't take it out of the garage when it rains. Another is the family car, tyres on that have to be safe in all conditions. The tow car has to get great use out of the tyres with low rolling resistance (for good fuel consumption) as it travels long distances on the freeways going interstate to race meetings. The race car of course has R rated tyres, one set for dry (buffed) and the other for wet (unbuffed).

I agree with Roy, I have never ever used a thermosat in an oil cooler in Australia.

Best way to find out how much the standard pump draws is to look a the size of the fuse. We use a 30 amp fuse for the 044.

Hi jamesh, you stated 2 things that are so illogical, they have prompted the harsh responses you are getting. :argue: Number 1 This means you think pushing the clutch in and out twice (double) would decrease the 0 to 100 kph time. This is simply not true, it would slow your gearchange down and the engine would spend less time producing power. Think about how stupid double clutching on the up change is, you are doing ~7,000 rpm in first before you change into second. How can free revving the engine do anything? It is already at maximum boost producing rpm. :headspin: Secondly a free revving engine produces less exhaust (at the same rpm) as an engine with load on it. So by free revving it you end up with LESS boost. Thus you claim for “faster” is doubly wrong, it is obviously slower and arguably results in less power. :wassup: Number 2 This is simply IMPOSSIBLE, there is a solid connection between the wheels and the engine (in a manual car). So you can never have more speed for the same rpm in the same gear unless you change the gearbox or diff ratios or fit larger diameter tyres. Even then, if you don’t recalibrate your speedo, you won’t see any change. :Oops: So there is only one thing for you to do, admit that you were W-R-O-N-G !

Hi Joel, when I said "we always upgrade the valve springs" that includes GTR's. We use Iskenderian.

Hi ricleine, we mount them in tank all the time, never had a problem. The alternative is to mount it in series with the standard pump ie; the supply line from the standard pump to the engine comes out of the top of the tank and then dips down around the rear subframe. There is a join in the pipework, we put the external pump there. It is under the car so the noise is OK, out of harm's way and only a short run for the wiring. We always use a relay, 044's draw heaps of current and the standard wiring is too small. Just in case you haven't heard of using series fuel pumps. The idea is you remove the resistance from the standard pump, so it pumps more. Heaps more in fact. This is then supplied to the larger pump which gets all the fuel it needs. So basially all you are doing is taking the surge tank out of the system, otherwise it is exactly the same in function. Hope that helps

Hi Archie, have you tried the champher on the leading and trailing edges of the pad? I haven't ever used Ferodo DS2500's, but it works on Ultimates.

The floaties are oil and water mixed with air. Over time they separate, the water evapourates with the under bonnet temperature and the air escapes through the filter. This leaves the oil. You may be gettin water from washing, but it also comes from humidity and from the engine when it is cold and has condensation. If this the first time in 12 months you have emptied it, then you have nothing to worry about.

I agree with Steve, 2,500 rpm is limp home mode. Check the AFM and its connections carefully.

Hi Guys, we always upgrade the valve springs, regardless of whether it's an N/A or not. They are too low in spring rate and don't have enough seat pressure for my liking.

We use PWR.

Ooooops wrong answer, rings will never run in properly with synthetic oil. Particularly gapless, are they top or second ring gapless? We use basic Castrol GTX, 100% mineral oil, no friction modifiers. Gapless need 500K's to run in with mineral oil. We run 50K's then change the oil filter, just in case there was any left over crap in the engine build. Cheap insurance. Who told you not to use the running in oil?

Simple, a single Bosch 044 will handle that easily. Much simpler than running 2 sets of fuel supply lines and increasing the return line. Plus give you another 5 psi of fuel pressure to play with. No, not really, just make sure the fuel tank never gets below 1/3. You carry a bit of extra weight, but that's about it.

Hi riceline, I don't want to get into too much fluid dynamics here. So a simple question will do for now, how much power are you targetting?

Hi yamaha227, what oil did you use to run the engine in on?

Hi guys, you made a decision, so its up to me to help; MicrotechUSA.Com 21 W. Fullerton Addison, Illinois 60101 www.microtechusa.com or direct at www.microtech-efi.com I have a few suggestions from our experiences The trick we find with the LT8 is it has 4 coils pack driver. So you need to configure the wiring harness to run wasted spark on circuits #1, #2 & #3 and then earth out #4. If you don't do that you will have difficulties getting the engine to start. The LT8 has 3 injector circuits so you have to make sure you parrallel up the injectors according to the firing order (eg; 1 & 5, 3 & 6 , 2 & 4). If you do it in any other order you will have difficulties tuning during the boost climb rpm. We have found the LT12 with 6 ignition drivers and 6 injectors drivers to be a far easier install, with superior results than the LT8. More power, better fuel economy and more able to handle high rpm and boost at the same time. It really is worth the extra $. Hope that helps

Hey guys This is a Son of SK post. NO help from the old man, all me me me. Maybe some help from google... Camber, Toe & Castor - the difference Most people hear these words but rarely have the opportunity to underst& what they mean & do. TOE This is the amount that the wheels are pointed in or out EG often called "total toe in or out". On rear independant suspension cars this is also adjustable, Subaru, Daihatsu etc. NOT live axle cars though. Fords, Holdens etc. Often measured in mm this little change makes huge differences in h&ling. As a car moves forward the suspension often moves back reducing toe in, so cars are often set with 1 - 3 mm toe IN. If the car has toe out it often tends to w&er on the road more. On all our rally cars we run about 1 - 2 mm on the front & BACK. Rear is less important as it tends to be less likely to be affected by knocks, pot holes & kerbs. BUT it is important to be correct CAMBER Think of the angle of most roads, look along it & it slopes to the side to make the water drain or is banked on fast freeway corners. This is camber, the angle your wheel sits in relation to vertical when pointed ahead & you look straight at the car from front or rear. Measured in degrees, most common road cars have 0 - .5 degree std. some more. Too much NEGATIVE camber will wear out tyres on the inside. POSITIVE wears out the outside. Look at really old cars they often have POSITIVE camber. (I do not know why). The correct amount varies depending on CASTOR, (see follows) & how you drive your car. If you have little castor & you love driving fast through corners then you need more NEGATIVE camber, if you do heaps of freeway driving then less is better. THE REASON? When you turn a corner the outside tyre tends to roll under the rim, causing it to wear on its outer edge. By laying it on its side you reduce this effect. Too much & it will wear on the inside, too little & wear on the outside. NOTE this is often used to stop wide tyres rubbing on wheel arches or suspension points, this case tyres wear is not a focus! REMEMBER too much neg camber & you will lose traction in straight ahead driving as the tyre is not flat on the road. CASTOR This is the best of both! BUT is often not adjustable on modern cars. Camber stays the same if the pivot (vertically) of the car suspension is zero. EG if you turn the wheel about its axis (steer not spin) it stays the same. BUT if the axis is at an angle (for & aft) then the more you steer the car, the more camber you get! Its hard to relate, but if you imagine looking at the LHS of the cars wheel, with front to your left, if you grabbed the top of the axis & moved it back (to horizontal) with the wheel position staying still then this is castor, then imagine, if you turned the wheel to the right 90 degrees then the wheel will lay flat, this is obviously an extreme example but best explained. SO, the more castor the more the wheel will increase negative camber the more you turn the wheel. BUT too much castor & the car will want to w&er as it has less tendency to want to point straight ahead. REMEMBER Check your tyre pressures, over 80% of cars have UNDER inflated tyres & most companies, TYRES & CARS, suggest low, for better ride. On most Subaru's, Hyundai's Daihatsu's etc try 35 PSI it will steer better, ride a bit harder, but go HEAPS better! On most cars these days we can supply camber kits to increase & allow adjustable camber, most Subarus have some adjustable limits. Castor well thats hard, but possible! Remember that you pay for what you get, a cheap wheel alignment means just that! MRT Toe-In/Out is a slight steering angle that is preset into the suspension. Toe-in has the tires pointing slightly toward the center of the car's front. Toe-out has the cars pointing slightly away from the car. In the diagram above, there is zero toe-in/out. Toe-in/out is used to offset the natural change in toe position caused by braking & accelleration. Unsprung Weight Unsprung weight is a measurement of the weight of everything outboard of the wishbones or suspension links, plus 1/2 of the weight of the wishbones or links & spring/shock. It has a great effect on h&ling. The diagram below demonstrates why unsprung weight is so important: The more weight outboard of the car, the more force bumps exert on the suspension (& ultimately the chassis). This force must be dealt with using springs, dampers & anti-roll bars (described below), & the more force, the more difficult it is to keep the tire planted on the road. This is especially true of lighter weight cars. In the example above, if the car weighs 1000 lbs, a 2G bump would result in a vertical force of 10% of the car's weight. This will at the very least reduce the grip of the car, because the weight of the car is what keeps the tire planted, & pushing a car up into the air with that much force will inevitably reduce the weight on the tire, & hence grip. Tyres As the first point of contact with the road, the tires work in conjunction with the suspension geometry & weight transfer dynamics to provide grip. Many different types of tires exist, but provided you are building for a specific class, you can easily select a particularly good or popular tire. The grip provided by a tire is linked to the coefficient of friction (Cf) of the rubber compound & to the tire's construction (Radial/bias). This coefficient indicates the lateral grip the tire is capable of providing for a given weight being placed on it. Racing slicks are very high Cf tires, in the range of 1.0 or more. Street radials, on the other h&, rarely even approach 1.0. So what is in a number? If you were to place 500 lbs weight onto each of four tires with a Cf of 1.0, you could expect 2000 lbs (actually a little less) of lateral grip. Without aerodynamic aids to add to vehicle weight, the car would almost achieve a 1G turn. Castor angle If the lower swivel is further forward than the upper you have positive castor (aka trail). In this situation the centre of the tyre's contact patch trails behind the point where the king pin axis intercepts the ground. Thus the steering self centres, the drag on the tyre will pull it back behind the king pin axis. Just like a bike (push or motor). With things the other way round the steering would tend to un-centre itself (just like reversing). The castor has no effect on the roll. Body roll is caused by the contact with the road being lower than the centre of mass of the car so when cornering the momentum of the vehicle trying to carry on in a straight line pulls the vehicle & tends to tilt it over. What we know as centrifugal force, but which doesn't really exist. also thanks to http://www.gmecca.com here's some RWD assistance for toe.. Toe-in / Toe-out I'm not the definitive expert on these matters, but AFAIK front toe is usually set so that in normal driving condition the wheels point straight ahead. A Skyline is RWD & so when driving forward the front wheels are dragged back. Changing toe settings will affect steering feel & not much else. adding toe-out will make a car turn in quicker & make the steering more sensitive. Too much toe-out will cause darting while braking heavily & an unsteady feel at high speeds. Too much toe-in will give the steering a very lazy feel. Toe settings also need to take into account the amount of Ackermann angle designed into the front steering arms. Bump steer is when the car darts to one side or the other when one wheel moves up or down more than the other wheel. This is usually a design of the suspension, or a bent steering arm, or modification (ie. lowering) that alters the geometry too much. Bump steer happens when the up & down arc of the steering arm & the suspension arms are of a different radius. Toe-out in front wheel drive cars is to get the wheels to a close to zero toe setting when acceleration causes the wheels to move forward slightly due to suspension bushing deflection. No toe-out in the rear!!!! If most cars have toe-out added to the rear it can cause serious oversteer, sometimes snap-oversteer when letting off of the throttle. Source: Haynes Workshop Manual 1969 to 1996 up to P reg (UK) (added 25 11 02) front 1.58mm toe out 3 +/- 1 degrees positive castor 2 +/- 1 degrees positive camber rear 3.17 mm toe in 0.5 to 2.5 degrees positive camber thanks to www.ime.co.uk How can Whiteline HELP???? http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0134/article.html Should get you guys started Hope you can find some useful & intellectual assistance here, & please, do some of your own research on the subject, becuase it really is worth it Supplementry articles may be found on Autospeed.... http://www.autospeed.com/cms/A_0913/article.html

No VVT, otherwise OK.

Firstly you tune it properly for your boost level. You can of course tune it for more boost than you run via the boost table. In other words tune it "normally" with optimium A/F ratios and ignition timing. Or you can add extra fuel and/or retard the timing if the boost goes above your target. You can make this a "saftey net" (only a bit richer and a bit retarded) or "protection" (dump heaps of fuel and lots of retard). "Protection" is like the standard ECU. The standard ECU then has full on fuel cut off, Power FC doesn't have that for obvious reasons. Whatever you want, there is no limit to the ignition mapping as long as you stay within 20 X 20 load points. Plus you have correction tables for temperature and boost. Try www.nengun.com they sell to anyone, anywhere at good prices. I have bought plenty of stuff from them, not one problem. Hope that helps

OK Jamesh, :box: spell it out like I did, step by step and put down the time it takes to do each action. Then add it up. I know it's a strain but I am sure you can borrow a calculator.:dump: I had an epiphany, how to prove the variable boost ratio gearbox :idea: Put your car in second gear in the drive way, and push it. Count how many times the engine turns when the rear wheels turn once. Then push it really fast and count them again. If it's different, then you're right. :bahaha:

:bs!:

Can the REAL Son of Sydneykid please stand up..... :wavey: That's right, been here all along...... Don't diss la

Soapy (dish washing liquid) water is good, if there is a boost leak it blows pretty bubbles :flower: For a vacuuum leak, try some RP7, the engine will suck it in and the idle rpm will jump.

Your WRONG Ronin, I have a son but he is neither long nor lost. :slap: As for Jamesh3, I have seriously pissed my pants several times reading the drivel :bonk: In a manual car there is a SOLID connection between the wheels and the engine. In the same gear it is impossible for the rpm of the wheels to change if the rpm of the engine doesn't. :flamer: As for single, double or triple clutching on the up change being faster, I can not believe anyone is that stupid :headspin: How long does it take you to; lift off the throttle push the clutch in move the gear lever to neutral push the clutch in squeeze the throttle lift off the throttle then move the gear lever into the next gear lift off the clutch squeeze the throttle If you are really good it's 0.15 of a second. Compare that to; lift throttle move gear lever into the next gear squeeze throttle If you are average that's 0.02 of a second In a 1/4 you make 3 gear changes, 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 3 to 4. Using the double clutch method you spend 3 X 0.15 = 0.45 not accelerating. Compared to 0.02 X 3 = 0.06 not accelerating. You just lost the drag by 0.4 second. :kick: I can't believe I managed to type this without laughing my self sick. :throwup:

Shoot yes :aroused: , even straight out of the box (untuned) they sort this out, they have no over boost cut or rich and retard.