rob82

Std airbox works great at dissipating reversion back through the AFM's - plus its internally bellmouthed. I wouldn't think it would be a restriciton up to about 300awkw. If your going to go the wank factor though get the domed pods -HKS I think as they flow and do the above.

Did you calibrate the thermocouple's in the operating range as alot of K and J type thermo's are quite inaccurate from sensor to sensor.

Havn't seen this issue in the XR6T's and thats up to about 700rwhp at 5500rpm on the standard crank and I'm pretty sure there would be alot more torque in a tough XR6T than most tough skylines. And as for over advanced ignition timing being the only thing to cause engine failure thats a crock.

There is alot of power to be had in correct strapping. My opinion is that the straps should be almost verticle pulling directly towards the ground. The attatchment point should be forward of the axle towards the front of the car so that as the car torque's up it puts more of a moment in pulling th tyre into the roller. The problem I've seen with letting the car creep up on the front roller is that most cars esspecially turboed cars only situp on the front roller as they come through peak torque and then they sit back down on the rear roller, which causes a huge drop in power as it has to accellerate the rear roller back up to the current wheel speed. So essentially you will inflate the torque figure while reducing the peak horsepower figure. The other thing to consider is the tyre compound - cause if your producing over 7000N of tractive effort then you could be giving away power through the adhisive forces that some tyres can produce. And as for tyre choice - I've seen an rb30DET making 310rwkw on street slicks go to 368rwkw on normal hard compound tyres with no change in anything but tyre choice. This car wsa producing over 8000N of tractive effort.

My BBQ cooks really good steak on LPG but if I switched to petrol I think it may burn them.

There is no point comparing torque figures unless you know the tacho ratio is correct - otherwise the all torque figurs will be wrong as its a calculated number from this ratio. If you all want to get your wangs out then compare the tractive effort vs wheel speed as most dyno operators dont even enter a tacho number let alone know what one is.

There's a cranking ms time vs ECT. I presume this is what he wants to tune. If the injectors are standard then there is no reason to touch these settings.

I'm thinking its a compressor surge issues (well in my case anyway) as I can see the MAF voltages going up on back off from the shuffle causing over fuelling even though my BOV is plumbed back. I believe the problem got alot worse when I changed from a dome shaped airfilter to a normal Drift branded POD. With the dome shaped airfilter there is nothing for the air to reflect off so the compressor surge gets dissipated. My thinking is to create an airbox with a panel filter element and change my BOV to two standard bosch plastic ones as they only seem to close at about 5inches of vacuum.

Are you saying that because the r32 have the small oil pump drive or because you geniunely know that the pumps are weak? So R33 GTR oil pumps are fine?

What air filter setup have you got - have you tryed removing the air filters and see if the problem goes away?

Sorry to hijack but whats wrong with a standard oil pump in an apllication up to 400awkw?

I think Zebra has hit the nail on the head. Smaller duration camshafts have better dynamic compression and there is no better mechanical way of getting a turbo to spool than compression - hence incresing torque and throttle response. The other advantage/disadvantage of the 26 is that it has a tiny stroke and rod length so the it lends itself to being reved and not hanging around at TDC for too long this is why the timing numbers are so large even at large boost levels. With the -5 there really is that much more power to be made above about 22-24psi of boost on a standard displacment 26 and at those boost levels on standard cams I've seen up to 16deg total advance which to me is just perfect.

I hope they've put in considerable time into signal processing of the factory CAS output as there are many skylines out there with shite CAS/worn cam keys.

On the std ECU it would automatically drop to a default timing number and display an engine light if the sensor was open or short circuit.

You guys are idiots 200k's to a tank. Bye Bye catlytic convter, bye bye spark plugs, bye bye nice nissan piston ring seal with washed bores, hello combustion chamber carbon build up (possible leading to hot spots) bye bye oil, hello turbo coke build up. I can see the ice caps melting through your plume of fuel smoke so pull your head out of your arses and stop giving skyline owners the automatic penis attachment to there foreheads!!

What happens if the wiring to the knock sensor is faulty??? No fault codes, No knock numbers no flashy eninge light.

Well the gear you have fitted will make both Re-map or PFC nice and easy to tune - congrats on not installing 1000cc injectors for your 380hp turbo as I often have seen. As Paul has said either or can be tuned - just make sure you get a good tuner. The Knock light feature on the PFC is nice even if it doesn't retard the timing as the factory ECU "WILL/SHOULD" - but it often doesn't.

You sound like a VL owner - lazy and stupid!! So you dont know what turbo's you fitted and you have no idea what the actuators are for - cause they dont sound like anything I've heard of. f**k if you barstardised your GTR I can only imagine what the VL looks like!!

Did you recheck the base timing after moving the exhuast cam??

The haltech has 8 configurable timed drives and 4 ignition drives however the 7 and 8 injecctor drive can be configured to run as igntion drives so you will end up with 6 injector drives and 6 ignition drives. Simple. Stay away from MSD ignitions BTW.

Go to repco and ask for the high silcone fuel hose comes in a 1meter length - never had an issue with it.

Usually it shouldn't be an issue going from a large lift cam to a small lift cam but did you bleed down the lifters before you put the cams in?

That would be the preferable method.

You shouldn't solder any wires on any car - they should all be crimped. What happens if you disconnect the 02 sensor then do an ECU reset by removing it from the harness for 5 seconds? Does it only stall when the AC is on? Is there an ATMO BOV. SR20's shouldn't stall with the AFM disconnected unless there is some other major problem.

Was it on a chassis dyno - if so what were the tyres like and what was the tractive effort for the run?