rob82

I would be highly suspect on the turbosmart fuel pressure regulator - they are absolute crap. I have had issues with three of them on two different cars I have tuned. An example was an XR6T making 750rwhp on about 25psi of boost; so 4bar base pressure and another 25psi on top of that means total fuel rail pressure of 84psi. What happen was that the rail pressure started not rising 1:1 with boost. Pull the regulator apart to find that the dodgy copper to aluminimum face they use to regualte pressure had started to etch lines across the face - hence not sealing properly. Its not even a proper ball valve. We replaced the reg with another brand new item only to find after about 10 more runs the same thing started to happen. The other issue I had was with the click type ones on a sierra cosworth. Not sure what the issue was but when it started leaking from the vacuum source - I pulled the pin!

No offence but why the injectors? BTW those injectors are cheap for a reason and they are linear flow not expotential like all good turbo injectors.

An 040 will pump like 6-7 L/min not under load - so I can almost garuntee that your swirlpot will be full to the brim the entire time - cant see thats going to cause cavitation with 300mm of head above the pump. Like I said how much horsepower are you making. An 044 will flow 3.3L/min at 5bar and 12Votls so its preobaly more like 3.8L/min at 5bar and 13.8volts. So at 3bar and 13.8Volts you may be flowing 6-6.5 L/min at low load - THATS GOING TO HEAT THE FUEL VERY QUICKLY.

What horsepower are you making beacuse an 044 will flow enough for 350rwkw at 5bar of pressure.

I've made around 250awkw on EVO9 and EVO10's with 550cc Inj so another two injectors = (250/4)*6 = 375awkw. Thats dyno dynamics figures. So 550cc injectors are well within the scope of that turbo on std pump density fuel as long as your fuel pump setup is up to it. I went from a std Rb26 to a RB30DETT with -5 turbos and on same boost as before I would say the RB26 felt more exciting to drive but you compare the actual accelleration rates and you'll find its a completely different story. I'm seeing 80-160km/hr times on a 4th gear roll on of about 5.4-5.6 sec on 12psi of boost before it was about 7 secs. I can tell you that even on that boost I can get roll on wheelspin in 3rd.

Looks like he stopped the run at 160km/hr because it was missfiring as per what any competent dyno operator would do. The extra timing helps with reducing the energy required for ionizing the spark plug gap as the cylinder pressures are less the further you are from TDC on the compression stroke. Sometimes with std ecu's on R33's its a real blend as too much CAS advance can cause detonation at low rpm. The popping at idle is most likely from small spark plug gap, not from advancing the CAS.

Becuase some people put on two tensioner pulleys, if every body only used the left idler as the tesnioner than it wouldn't matter. Remember I'm talking crank degrees so only 8 camshaft degrees. I can tell you that your cam timing is massively out if your on std centres. I could give you my lift at TDC figures or you could just do want any good eng builder should do and dial the cams in properly! What makes you think that your not closer to banging the valves with std centres and increase deck height??? Take it back to the dyno and dial in 5deg inlet advance and watch the torque and top end come back!! Whats even more scary is that no one else has piped up and said anything about cam timing!!!

I can smell the clutch burning from here in getting your cars off the dyno with no torque under 3000rpm!!! Are you sure there was no other changes that may have cuase the extra power - like compression??? I've been around cars for long enough to know that not everything makes perfect sense but in these cases I always try to determine why a specific change caused an undesireable result. Usually there is always a reason.

I noticed earlier that you have the cams on the std centres - is this on the std cam gear centre lines??? I can tell you that the cam timing on my Rb30/26 took alot to get correct and thats with the std cams. I'm at 4ret on the exh and 16ad on the inlet in crank degrees. Remember that this will be dependant upon where the idler pulley is placed along with deck height. My -5 are making 12psi by 3300rpm - time to check the cam timing.

Had a factory rebuilt engine with factory clearances and pistons up to around 300rwkw. However it busted a ring land about 2months later with a batch of bad fuel. I would think that 240-260rwkw would be fine as long as your not choking up the exh side with a small turbo.

What - from everything I have seen I would tend to agree with URAS. Are you talking your flow bench figures again or actual dyno testing and when we talk low rpm I would condsider that to be below 3000rpm on a RB26.

It doesn't kill 02 sensors - we have an XR6T that has covered thousands of kilometers on avgas without destroying anything - mind you it doesn't have a cat. And as for red exhuast thats crap. It leaves a white residue in the exhuast system thats why it makes reading plugs more difficult too - as they appear alot whiter ie- hotter than what they actually are.

Delphi make a cam phasor for belt driven camshafts - as used on the EVO9. You could probably adapt the solenoid from the EVo9 as well. Remember that full cam control is a bitch for most speed density sytems and that total "bump and check" cam phasing is alot of work for not much gain. Your better off with just an on and off cam advance solenoid

Its fine to run without mixing it but it may render your cat useless - but it wont destroy it.

Whaaat - you guys are on drugs. There is no factory realeased DI gasoline engine that doesn't have a throttle plate!!

Not the maximum lift. I need to know the vavle lift on cylinder 1 at TDC for factory cam timing marks. On both inlet and exh

Just wondering if anybody has the factory inlet and and exhaust valve lift figures at TDC for factory camshafts.

Also whats your timing control like at high rpm? The only three ECU's I would ever use when using a std CAS is a PFC, std ECU or Motec every other ECU I've seen issues with signal filtering - haven't seen the new Vipec.

Its probably got no boost at 5000rpm hence the ignition numbers. What does the boost do - its sometimes easier to hear valve float external to the dyno room. Also when valve float occurs your boost can go all over the place. Does more boost make more power through the mid range but then just flattens off upto where it should be making more power?

Valve float - does the power just nose over? How does the engine sound at this point. Have you got a dyno graph?

In those kind of ambient temps your fuel temps may well have been over 65 degs on the dyno - which can cause the fuel pump to drop pressure and or flow. I commonly see this issue on queensland dynos where the room temps are up around 40degs. Its just those bloody southern tuners dont have a clue how much difference ambient temps makes to eninge tuning!!!

What makes one better than the other and whats wrong with the std balancer? Has anybody actually been able to determine if the secondary forces are reduced at critical rpms using the aftermarket items???

I take it your only talking a topend power figure when your refering to engine efficency. Better fuels should always make more horsepower and if they dont then its time to make the engine more dynamic.

f**k me he got rid of turbo suffle - where do I sign up???? Any ecu tuning tricks on fixing airflow meter reversion issues???

And the rest 13:1 and then add boost on methanol!